WTO parts are carried out on special equipment using moisture, heat and pressure during processing and when final finishing. The main operations of the WTO are discussed below.

Difference and delay - the most time-consuming and responsible operations. They are performed to make parts of the spatial form. During the tension, the part is subjected to a forced shrinkage, and when pulling it - forced stretching. A concave shape (Fig. 5.3, a) is achieved by the sustainment in the middle of the part, if this section in the socks process is compressed, or pulling around the edges if the edges are fixed. In some cases, for obtaining a concave form, both operations are performed - mortifying in the middle of the part and pulling around the edges. The convex shape (Fig. 5.3, b) parts are created by or pulling it the middle of the part, or in the edges of the edges, followed by fixing the shape edges or seams. Difference and pullback can be performed by irrigating and pressing.

Fig. 5.3. Concave (c) and convex (6) details

Differences perform an iron, starting with those parts of the parts where a small landing is required, gradually moving to areas with a larger planting of the fabric. In this case, various pads are used (Fig. 5.4), ensuring the laying of parts with the formation of the necessary form.

Pressing the pressing is performed simultaneously on all areas. In this case, when placing the part on the convex surface of the press cushion along the edge of the part form the waves. With a rapprochement of pillows of the press, the large waviness of the material is divided into smaller, as a result of which the resulting slab material is oblivious (Fig. 5.5). Special pillows apply to pressing the compression.

Fig. 5.4. Pads:
and -Bort; B- for the depletion of direct seams; in, Mr. Deli Running the seam of fees; d - for the depleting of shoulder seams; e - for the dealers of the neck; Well - for suiting landing on the sleeves; s, and - to excite the peat sleeves; K - combined; L- for the truncating of the sutures of the sleeves; m - for heating stepping seams trousers

Fig. 5.5. Scheme of the layout of pillows, press and sustainable material

Method of pressing, conjugately planted and fixed by the time line of the edge of the embedded seittees, the upper collar, mixed in the sleeve prum, etc. These operations can be performed by iron and press.

Tightening with the help of iron starts from the sections of the largest stretching, gradually moving to adjacent areas with less deformation (for example, pulling out the rear halves of trousers, front sections upper parts Sleeveless, etc.).

Expressing pressing is performed on presses with special pillows having a corrugated surface in areas corresponding to places of stretching material in detail. During pressing, corrugated areas of the upper and lower pillows are combined, clamping and stretching material.

In mass production, these operations are mainly carried out.

on presses with special pillows. In the conditions of clothing manufactured by individual orders, the possibility of using such presses is limited, so the main direction of improvement is to achieve maximum formation of parts with a constructive path (using

seams, pulp, reliefs and other design lines). The ego direction is dictated by the properties of new materials with high content synthetic fibers (Lavsana, Terileina, Nitron, etc.), in which the deformation of the threads is almost not fixed by the WTO.

Pressing is performed for thinning edges of parts, folds, reliefs, dying, etc. and when processing seams. Pressing is performed by rooting, rooting and trips.

Rooming is the pressing of finished knots, details (pockets, collar, invented small parts, edges of the product, sides, noticed Niza).

Foundation is pressing seams, folds, etc. With pre-reducing edges of parts.

Rangery - pressing of seams, folds with pre-laying of points in different directions.

Pressing operations are performed using irons and presses. When performing these operations, universal and special pads and press pillows are widely used. Universal cylindrical pillows use universal cylindrical pillows for roaring the bottoms, sides, collars and other nodes of the products of the palp costume. These pillows also serve for the simultaneous roasting of small parts (valves, hlystics, etc.) and the seashelling of short seams (seams of stepping parts of the welds, lower collars). Operations and seam shelving operations The iron is performed on special pads and pillows, and the allowances for the seams are pre-lay or bend over the side with an iron weighing more than 1 south. Pressing and aligning the edges of the raised small parts (valves, cuffs, etc.) of products from woolen tissues are performed using sliding patterns having a part form (Fig. 5.6, a).

Fig. 5.6. Sliding pattern (a) and special pillows (b)

Ironing parts processing are performed to remove bends, damages, irregularities on the material, as well as for the final WTO of finished products, which can be carried out centrally on specially selected areas; At the same time, the maximum use of presses is possible for products of a palp costume assortment.

For irrigating areas of clothing, having a bulk form (upper edges of trousers, weapons, coat and jackets, etc.), use cylindrical and universal spherical pillows. Shoulder sites and peal sleeves are ironing on a special press, rooting the lower sections and bending trousers are performed on special pillows (Fig. 5.6, b).

With the final WTO, men's shirts apply special cushions for cuffs and collar, shelves and backs, for the product of the dress assortment, we use tables with steam heating of the working surface in a set with electropares.

Outfall remove Las with products resulting from pressing and irrigation. Earbing is performed simultaneously with irrupting processing or may be an independent operation. So, when weeping products on steam presses or iron with chairs, the excipation is performed by short-term launch of steam. When processing products with irons without a charter or on electropresses, evaporation is allocated to an independent operation. The simplest, but time-consuming method for removing LAS is a short-term effect on the material with an iron through a moistened path with minimal pressure.

WTO sewing products From the tissue of various fibrous composition does not provide sufficient stability of the form in the process of product socks. Therefore, when making clothes, gaskets are used in the shelves, collars, edge in sides, prugi and on others sections of products, Molding is made by pulling out or taving tissue in accordance with the deformation of parts during product socks.

Fabrics made of natural fibers entering sewing enterprises, it is advisable to subjected to decaration, i.e. WTO in front of them will open with moisturizing, steaming with the subsequent drying using special equipment or iron.

The finished product is subjected to the final WTO on the steam-air dummy or on the press. As a result of these operations, the product is saturated with steam, dried with fixing the necessary form, are removed.

There are several types of steadmate mannequins intended for processing different types of fabrics: mainly for tissues with a slight content of synthetic fibers. The device of steam-air dummies allows you to use them for clothes of different sizes. The WTO equipment is usually installed in a separate room.

Characteristics and scope of WTO operations are shown in Table. 5.1.

Table 5.1.

Types of wet-thermal processing

Operation

Character of operation

Application area

Sutyering

Reducing the edge or individual areas of the product to obtain convex forms on the adjacent area (in products from woolen fabrics)

Difference of the edges of the shelves to obtain bulge in the chest; Sutying landing of peat sleeves, sutying of slacks at the ends of the wretched, etc.

Pulling out

Extension of the edge of the part to obtain a concave form on the adjacent area

Pulling the front cut of the sleeve, the cutting cut of the lower collar, volanov, beack, etc.

Pressing

Performing a number of operations using the press to reduce the thickness of the seam, edges or fixing the seams in the desired position

Pressing the edges of the sides, the bottom of the product, folds, etc.

Ironing handling details

Performing a number of operations with ironing equipment

Giving parts to the desired form and performing operations for the processing of seams and edges of parts

Gitulyant

Reducing the thickness of the seam, folding folds or edges of the part using an iron or press

Rooming pockets, sides, collars, folds, etc.

Rangery

Enclosing seams or folds in different directions and fixes them in this position using an iron or press

Running the side, shoulder seams, suture seams, etc.

Office

Laying the edges of parts, seam spaces or folds to one side and fixing them in this position using an iron or press

Introduction of the middle seam of the back, seams of skirts, reliefs, folds, etc.

Operation

Character of operation

Application area

Perettyzhen IE.

Removal of folds and reasons on the fabric or items of the product Iron

Stripping fabric before revealing, parts - before processing

Earbing

Processing of the product steam for removal from parts of LASs resulting from ironing

Examination of finished products

Steaming

Product saturation ferry

Steaming of the product or individual parts before pressing or simultaneously with it

Decate

material

Treatment of material ferry and drying to prevent subsequent shrinkage

Decatizing tissues and materials before revealing

WTO parts and finished products from the front side are performed through the Peremnuty, with invented side - without him. As a proof when processing the products of a palpal-costume range, onboard fabric, dressing assortment products are used - bleached linen or cotton fabric, products made of tissues containing synthetic fibers, - gauze and soft cotton tissue type of bike, flannel. Details of cotton materials are treated without a lap.

Before the implementation of the WTO lines applied with chalk or dried soap, it is removed, since the hot ironing surface fixes them and failures may remain from the molten lines.

In the manufacture of products from woolen and half-walled materials before the WTO, parts or nodes moisturize. Products made of woolen tissues of the type of gabardine, poorly humble, slightly moisturize, since with a large moisture and insufficient drying of the material there are wrinkled parts, seams, pulp, and with sufficient drying, almost unreasonable lures are formed.

Products made of materials with high content of synthetic fibers, natural and artificial leather, suede, velor, sprocket, knitted canvases, artificial fur Proceed without moisturizing or with light moisture. Materials are strongly moistened when they duplicate them with adhesive gasket material.

Rooting, pressing of the recovered edges of parts (sides, collars, valves, hlystics, etc.) and noticed areas of products (reliefs, nose of products and sleeves, etc.) To avoid the appearance of difficult traces from the seal stitches, the filings are produced in two reception. First, the edges of the parts are slightly roaring, sometimes a little moisturous, straighten the irregularities of the parts of the parts, and after removing the sweeps of the swelling or reinforcement, are finalized or affected. When processing parts with a finishing line, the thread is removed after paving the finishing lines. Then it is detail.

WTO products made of tissues with an increased content of synthetic fibers are performed, first, the resulting small landing from the line, and then irripating or rooting the seams.

To avoid manifestation from the front of the product of the seam contours after their seaside or rooting from the wrong side of the feeding, the seam treatment is lifted by the root parts of the parts under them. In some cases, seams are trimmed or seams, laid down the paste lint or striped paper under the allowances. In this case, additional processing of parts under the cutting of seam processing is not required.

When sheltering or rooting seams on the press, they are pre-slightly irrigated or rooted with an iron. If the seams are direct not throughout the entire length, then on the press only directly their plot (from the waist or thighs to bottom), and the curvilinear can be irrigated or rooted with an iron.

WTO small parts (valves, leaflets, hlystics, collars, etc.) produce from the side of the lower part.

The execution of the WTO of velvet products requires special care to avoid the silent intercession: Ironing work should be performed on iron tables and pads coated with cardie or foam rubber, as well as on a brush from the bristles of a horse-hairy, as if on the weight.

Products from pile materials can be disappeared on the presses working on a technological pair, without lowering the upper half.

When irrigible processing, details of products from loose materials

Or with a relief pattern is not pressed, so as not to compact the loose structure and do not spoil the relief of the pattern.

With the WTO of products from a form-resistant knitted canvase, it is necessary to closely monitor the uniform distribution of the effort throughout the surface of the part and not allow the breakdown of the web.

With the final WTO to remove the LAS from the surface of the products they need to be disappeared with the help of a swap. After
This finished products must be sucked or cooled.

(in suspended form or on the mannequin) until the full form attached to them; Duration of drying coat made of woolen fabric is 70 ... 120 minutes, from cotton fabric - 40 ... 60 min, woolen fabric costume - 50 ... 70 minutes, from cotton fabric - 30 ... 45 min. When performing the final WTO, the products from the pile tissues are recommended to moisturize and leave in suspended at 75 ... 120 minutes.

Lesson. Wet heat treatment of fabric and basic operations.

Objectives: acquaint students with the organization of the workplace for the implementation of the WTO; teach the terminology used in the implementation of the WTO, the rules of TB; form skills on the organization of the workplace to perform irony; Educating accuracy and attentiveness during operation.

Equipment: Tutorial, workbook, posters, ironing samples, Ironing board, iron.

During the classes

    Organization of lesson.

Check readiness student to lesson.

    Repeat material passed.

    What is called stitch?

    What is called line?

    What capacity has a modern household sewing machine?

    How to wind threads on a bobbin?

    What are the stitch length regulator, reverse key, line type switch?

    Studying a new material.

All lines and seams that we fulfill with you must necessarily have a wet-thermal processing, and wet-thermal processing is of great importance in the manufacture of clothes. The appearance and quality of sewing products depends on these works.

Workplace For wet-thermal work, it is necessary to organize it so that it is convenient to work, while observing the sanitary and hygiene requirements and safety regulations.

The workplace for humid-thermal works is an ironing board. Boards are made of solid wood. The felt gasket is placed on the board, and the linen case is put on top.

Wet-thermal works are performed standing, while the distance from the processed item to the eye should be 35-45 cm.

Wet-thermal works are performed by iron. Iron is a tool for wet-thermal processing. Now we all use electrical irons. From the story, we know that at first the irons were with coals, in the body of the iron lay hot corners, thus heated it and ironed. Then the irons began to heat on the stove, they were also called nylon, they came to shift electrical. Electrical irons have a thermostat (adjusts the heating temperature) and the steamochloride.

Before proceeding with the wet-thermal processing of the manufactured product, it is necessary to try the temperature on the flap of the fabric that you need to iron.

Wet-thermal processing is performed from the wrong side and observe rules for performing wet-thermal processing.

    The position of the thermostat is installed in accordance with the type of fabric treated.

    Starting iron, should be checked if it was clean if he was overheated.

    After performing each machine operation, the part or product moisturize and iron until complete tissue drying.

    Products ironing on the right left in the direction of the filament of the tissue, starting with small parts. Large items ironing in the direction from a wide part to narrow.

    With humble-thermal processing, the processed part of the part or products is closer to the running.

    An outrageous product must be left for some time in a straightened or suspended form.

When performing wet-thermal works, the following terminology is used:

Wet-thermal work (Appendix 10)

Examples of application

Restore

Remove disassens on fabrics, details and products

Rebuild fabric or ready product

Range

Decompose the seam allowances on two sides and consolidate them in this position

Rapid gear

Sentyuzhu

Bend the seam allowance to one side and consolidate them in this position.

Shut down the folds, increasing cutters

Running

Reduce the thickness of the seam, folding or edge details

Troubles, pockets, the edge of the product

Sanforize

Wet-thermal processing Material to prevent subsequent shrinkage

Decut the fabric before revealing

Performing wet-thermal works, it is necessary to be neat and extremely attentive, comply with safety regulations:

    Before working iron, check the condition of the cord.

    Iron Turn on and off with dry hands, taking care of the plug housing.

    Put iron on the stand.

    To ensure that the sole of the iron does not touch the cord.

    Perform a wet-thermal processing, standing on a rubber rug.

    At the end of operation, the iron must be turned off and put on a refractory stand.

Messages of students on the topic "What you need to know about ironing linen, about the iron" (Appendix 11)

    Fastening the material passed.

Independent work on the text in the textbook on with. 51-55.

    The outcome of the lesson.

Generalization on issues:

What instruments and fixtures relate to ironing equipment?

How do you need to iron x / b and linen fabrics?

Why do Iron make a sample on the flap of processed fabric?

What is the aircraft operation?

What is the difference in shelling?

Homework: Reply to questions at the end of $ 10.11.

Surprisingly, we never think about why the products sewn by us are not always well sitting on us, but bought in the store, even if this is the same model, sit in the wrong. We blame all your experience and throw sewing. But it's not about experience! Let's figure it out.

What do we do wrong? The answer lies on the surface. Almost none of the beginner seats do not handle the details of the products by steam or moisture both before they are crosslinking and in the process. This is the main mistake!

Wet-thermal processing - This is the necessary action at any striking and sewing. It is called the processing of the parts of the product by steam or moisture to give a certain form to details of the cut. This is a very responsible operation, which is 15-25% of the entire complexity of the processing of the product.

Terms of WTO

WTO - one of the first stages of preparation for sewing, because before revealing the fabric decate. Wet-thermal treatment is carried out, in order to prevent the subsequent shrinkage of the fabric when sock and ironing.

After decatting the tissue, we begin to cut and sew. Having rubbed the stitch runningon different sides of the details. Sometimes allowances for seams, as well as folds for the product sangeredone way, i.e. Fix with iron in a certain position. To reduce the thickness of the seams, folds or folds of them rooms, as if pressed.

Each hostess certainly understands the meaning of the word " restore" or " study", Weekly spending it with a folded linen. With the wrong choice of the temperature regime of ironing on the fabric, glitter is formed, so-called Las. It is possible to remove them using an excavation through a wet path, for 3-5 minutes acting a steam into a place where the shine is found.

With the help of wet-thermal processing, as a rule, can be changed if necessary, the size of the product details - supportand pick up. Suite, i.e. reduce to the required value, you can, for example, OKAT sleeves in order to pure it in the armor. To do this, with the help of a pumping line, it is necessary to pull the slice of the fanish sleeves between the specified marks. After that, with the help of iron, it is necessary to affect the ferry on the product to complete drying. As a result, we obtain a reduced OKAT sleeves that easily enters the armor without creating unnecessary folds.

The opposite of the suiting operation - " pulling out" It is used to eliminate cut parts.

These operations are usually always applied with WTO trousers. The figure shows where and in what places you need to sustuver and pull the cut parts. Red wavy lines denoted "delaying", and blue arcs are "sutying". Paint arrow indicates the direction of the delay.

The iron under these operations should not have a long time to influence one place, as this can lead to the appearance of LAS.

At the very beginning of the article, we mentioned the word " perethevyvnik" Let's deal with how he should be? The path is a piece of smooth fabric measuring 46 cm x 30 cm. The most the best way Perethelnik - a piece of fabric from which the product is sewn. It should not be dry, nor wet. The need for a ratio disappears if the iron has a removable safety sole.

Recall that wet-thermal processing of seams produce every time after laying the line. Moreover, all the pumping stitches and pins before the WTO are definitely removed. Since the left pins in the tissue after the WTO process form traces on the front side of the product.

IMPORTANT: When layering parts, cuttings under the seams need to put paper strips in order to avoid the appearance of seams on the front side of the part.
Remember: the reservoir starts from a wider part to a narrower, the iron lead strictly on the equity thread and the ironing always starts with small parts, but only then large.

Vadiy .


The quality of the implementation of sewing products, their appearance depend on how diligently you are the basic rules for performing machine and humid-thermal work in the sewing process. It is the thoroughness of all types of work and compliance with the technical conditions at all stages ensure the professionalism of the manufacture of things and distinguish it from carelessly made amateur products. Can not be beautiful and elegant dress With curved lines, protracted letters on the seam, poorly revealed corners of collars and many other small disadvantages.

Before stepping, the parts should be contaminated or made by pins and check the correctness of the connection. Start from the side less stretching and not having fabrics.

When the product details are rapidly placed on the left of the needle, and the allowances on the seam is on the right.

The static seam allowance is desirable to align in the width before they are connected and when sewing sections of parts need to be combined.

Strits of static seams must be smooth, straight and pass exactly on the lines of cut parts. The deviations of them on the parties, the curvature of the seam causes the appearance of swirling, tightening and irregularities on the surface of the products, which often try to remove with the help of iron, which is possible only for a very short time.

At the beginning and end of the line you need to make the lines with a double reverse line 0.7-1 cm. The lines protect seams from dissolve. Make them by pressing during the stratification on the reverse lever. If your car use this lever is inconvenient, fasten the seam, tie the ends of the threads with knots.

The ends of the upper bends of finishing lines should be drawn inside out and tie to prevent their dissolve.

When connecting parts of different parts, the line is performed from the side of smaller. When connecting parts with angle and laying on them, finishing lines, the seams are performed to the top of the angle, leaving the needle in the tissue, raise the paw and unfold the product without removing the needles from the material. By placing parts for the overacting or execution of the finishing line on the second side of the angle, the paw is lowered and continue the line. When the parts with an angle is sharpened to the seam in the corner, it is necessary to dissect almost to the vertex (without reaching 1 -2 mm). In case of insufficient cutting of the battery, the angle cannot be fine.

Folding rapidly from a wide end to narrow.

Cutting sections on zigzag or looping seam mode. Zigzag width 0.3-0.5 cm. Before coating the seams align in width, trimming with scissors.

The width of the allowances for internal seams is 0.5-1cm, on open seams 1.5-2Cm. The inner seams are cooled only on very bulk fabrics. In products from some types of fabrics and knitwear, sections of which are not creepy, seams can not be coated.

When the parts of the curved form of allowances on the seam should be trimmed so that they do not tighten the seam and did not spoil external view Products.

On the allowance of the concave seam makes the lashing, not reaching the line by 2-4mm. The greater the seam bent, the more often it needs to dissect.

On the convex curves of the parts of the tube on the seam, they are cut off by corners, i.e., remove the surplus of the fabric, and when the parts and wrinkles are not formed during the allowance.

When setting several layers of the fabric, a large thickness of the seam can be avoided, trimming some allowances. So, when connecting parts with a gasket, the laying is cut to the lines.

The stratification of parts with different bumps on the seam is performed from the side of that, which has a smaller point.

When connecting the vertex parts with a lining line is performed from the side of the lining fabric, otherwise the machine can be very scking and put a lining in the seam.

Stooling details, one of which has an assembly, the line is performed on the unseen item. The assembly should be located below, as otherwise, when the paw, the fabric shifts the fabric, the uniform of the assembly is disturbed, folds and are disassembled. To form the assembly, two parallel lines are parallel with a distance between them 0.5 cm. Through at the same time two threads of both lines, evenly distribute landing. The ends of the threads are tied, the details are estimated. Cutting the part with the assembly, the seam is paved between two assembly lines (Fig. 1).

Sourish cuts are raised by recovering 1mm dummy line in the side of the seam.

When calculating the corners (collar, side, cuff, etc.), the allowance of the seam in them is cut into them in such a way that when the parts are turned out, the feed parts are not superimposed in each other, but the voids were not formed (Fig. 2).

At the ends of the seams (on the edges of the product), the allowances are cut into the cables (Fig. 3).

During the stratification of parts from knitwear or severely stretched tissues, slightly stretch the seam so that it is more elastic. If the seam should not stretch, it should be laid a braid. Elastic seams on knitwear and other stretchable materials are better to perform in a zigzag mode with a wide 0.1-0.2 cm. The stitch length in this case should be set slightly less than usual (0.1-0.2 cm).

When stepping, parts are followed by the correctness of the tension of the thread. The line should not hide, the stitch knot should be formed in the tissue, and not on the surface. Seam should not be tightened. Check the correctness of the tension of the thread as follows. Take a piece of the resulting fabric, fold at an angle of 45 ° and stringly at a short distance from the bend. Stretch the obtained seam; If it breaks, look at what thread burst - the upper or lower, and weaken the tension of this thread. Check the line again and, adjusting the tension of the threads, achieve that the line does not rush.

Before stepping from velvet parts, slices are estimated with two parallel lines. The stitching line is paving between them. Steel parts from Venelveth and velvet with a weak tension of threads.

When working on sewing machine from different species The fabrics are very important to choose the needle and thread correctly. For thin threads, thin needles are needed, and vice versa.

Sometimes when sewing very dense materials, skin, suede, some types of synthetic knit needle makes frequent stitch passage due to increased friction and stretching threads during stitch formation. In this case, without changing the thread, replace the needle to thicker. When stepping parts from artificial leather or some duplicated needle materials, it is sometimes heated so much that plastic melts or glue. They shook the end of the needle and ear, and stitches are not formed. Avoid this helps the lubrication of the seam machine or vegetable oil or impregnating threads. The speed of the machine should be reduced, and the length of the stitch is increased.

The skin has increased persulsion, so it is better to use it with special flat needles. Moreover, artificial leather It has increased extensibility in all directions, so when the parts are rated in most cases, the edges or a special braid should be laid in the seams.

Sews carrying a large load (shoulder, turning the collar, sleeves, bodice connections with a skirt, seams of trousers), are performed by two lines, and in some cases put in the seam or edge.

In all types of sewing products, collars, cuffs, board, leaves, pocket valves are performed with a gasket. The material of the gasket depends on the tissue of the vertex. For palp and dense woolen fabrics, it can be a borneling, dense fliesline, a hawk coating. For costume-dresses, thin fliesline, fliesline with adhesive spraying, hawk and madapolams are used as a gasket. For very thin silk and cotton fabrics, a transparent traps should be used (hard), as well as a batter or very thin fliesline.

Finishing lines are paved from the face of the product. But in cases where the "Lurex" or thick threads of the type of iris are applied for them, they are filled into a shuttle and perform a line with an inside that the bottom thread is on the front of the product.

In products from knitted canvases and tissues with metallized or metal thread, when performing seams, the needle of the threads often takes place and the appearance of a set of fumes. To avoid this very unpleasant effect, only with new sharp needles and, if possible, silk or polyester threads under the seam, put the paper strips or tracing. After stepping, the paper is removed.

In case of insufficient tension, the top and shuttle thread sometimes there is a defect "Oscal" of the seam, i.e., when the part of the part, the parties are not pressed to each other and the stitching threads are visible in the seam. To eliminate the defect, it is necessary to increase the tension of the shuttle thread and adjust the tension of the top to it so that "Oscal" disappeared.

After stepping, the seams and finishing lines are flying. In this paper, follow the following rules.

Each seam needs to be pasted through wet fabric (Perevyutnik) until complete drying. Linen or cotton white fabrics are used as the retailers - hazard, madapolam, canvas. The fabric should be moistened and well to squeeze so that there are no wet spots on the product. In order for the switch of the seam not imprinted from the front side, under it put dense paper or a wooden line.

When it is suiting for the battered parts and parts having a complex form, you need to use templates from dense paper. The template is cut exactly in the form of the part without allowances on the seams and is embedded inward or impose on the wrong side of the part. The rooting should be performed on the side of the part on which the Kant is seen (i.e., from the bottom side); Kant needs to be straightened by achieving its uniformity and clear, proper form Parts of overtaking parts.

The seams on thin fabrics are mainly settled in one direction, on thick - weaken.

Binding of the shoulder seams are found on the shelf, if there is an outlet on the back, on the back, if there is no dye, or weaken.

Power seams are found on the back, if there is a side molding, and on the shelf, if there are no sweeps. Punches on the seams in the two-walled sleeve start on the top half; In the one-shim, they are irrigated if there are no filthlings, they start to the front rolling line, if there is an elbow dye; Middle seams are set on the front half.

Reliefs, molding from shoulder sections and waist lines are set to the middle of a shelf or back. Breasting swelling, coming from lateral sections, start down, seams of coaching coaching - on the coquettes (Fig. 4).

Products are fitted along the involving side through a wet fabric. You need to move the iron, adhering to the directions of the bases of the base, when moving the iron on the oblique thread, the fabric is stretched.

If the front part of the part, remove the details, remove the shine (Las), to put on this plot, folded in a few layers of a wet pavement and slightly touching it with iron. Paras straighten the stressed fibers of the fabric, and the shine will disappear. The seams start on the edge from the wrong side, placing the parts in the folded form on the one hand, and the seam allowance is on the other from the line line.

The rooting of the seams on the velvet and velvet is carried out by laying under the seam a brush from a natural bristle or folding the fabric "face to face" without pressing the iron, but only slightly touching the tissue. Silk velvet stroke. The floodings of the pile on the velvet and velvet are removed using a wet fabric, folded in several layers, touching it with an iron, and the brushes, which smoothes a crumpled pile, as well as over the ferry, straightening the face with a brush.

Before carrying out wet-thermal processing, it is necessary to remove all chalk lines, markings and threads of desiccation from the material.

Wet-thermal processing of lining and acetate tissues is better to perform without moisture, as water can leave spots on them. If the fabric does not irrigate, a slightly moisten from the pulverizer the path (without allowing large spots on it) and smooth through it.

Cotton and linen fabrics can be stroke without a lap by sprinkling with a purverizer with an invalid side.

When the peat sleeves are rooting, the shots of the wrapper from the wrong side on the edge, the spout of the iron cautiously straightening and the sung of the OKATA assembly. The product should be stacked on the board in such a way that the leaf fabric lay down at the bottom, and on top of the sleeves. In OKTEL, the seam allowance and 1-2 cm of the suture; The bottom of the armor and the open is irrigated, entering the tissue of the sleeves on 3-5 cm. Try not to stretch the shots of sweeping. From the front side, the top of the sleeve and the stump is affixed on a special stand or on weight with a small pad.

To avoid the influx of the fabric, first seams need to be opened and only then start the side.

In all common parts, before unsoldering them, the suture of the scrapping is needed. If this is not done, it is very difficult to achieve an even edging and a clear straight line of the processed seam.

It is especially important not to miss this operation when cutting board, Lartkanov, collar. The rooting parts are performed in two receptions: first conduct a light preliminary, and then, after removing the thread, the final reinforced processing with moisture.

When conducting a wet-thermal processing of the product, observe the thermal mode. It often leads to the emergence of opals, color change, the formation of spots and LAS. Therefore, check first on the flap, which iron mode provides good stuffing of your fabric and does not allow defects.

After processing the seam, the details must be cooled on ironing board Until the full fixation of the form led them.

When sewing various products, it is often necessary to carry out wet-thermal processing of the tissue. For example, when sewing trousers, it is sometimes necessary to more accurately "plant" pants on the figure, the rear halves of the trousers in places of the buttocks need to be expanded, stretch the wet tissue area with an iron and thus give an additional volume in this place. Some trousers on the contrary need to be pressed. Without wet-thermal processing, it is not necessary when the sleeves are tuned, it should be smoothly continued to continue the shoulder line and others.

What is the decacing of the fabric

Most often, under wet-thermal treatment, the decision of the tissue is meant, simply speaking, artificial shrinkage of fabric has in its composition cotton or woolen fibers.
This is especially important for modern compoundable tissues on a knitted basis-containing cotton fiber, stretch tissues.

To determine whether the tissue is needed to spend a hot iron of a small piece of fabric (corner). If the fabric changed its dimensions, it means that it must be decorating, sometimes even "wrapping" in warm water and dried slightly, to try the hot iron along the wrong side to complete drying.
If this is not time to do, then after washing, the size of the clothes can greatly decrease. Pants will become short and narrow, grinding shirt in the shoulders, etc.

Some tissues with moisturizes give a large shrinkage in length and slightly smaller in width. Some fabrics give the same landing in both directions, which entails the change in the size and the distortion of the shape of the clothing is not only long, but also in width. In order to avoid the appearance of such a "effect" after washing woolen fabrics or fabrics from artificial fibers (crepe, staple, etc.), be sure to check the shrinkage and if required, carry out wet-thermal processing, decatting.

The process of wet-thermal processing is to moisten the tissue, steaming its fibers and subsequent drying.
At home, the decatation is made as follows. Woolen or cotton fabric is evenly moisturized (pulverizer) from the wrong side, and then move through thin fabric In the equity direction to full burned.

Features of decatting various tissues


Fabric of artificial fiber Initially, soaked in water, sprinkle slightly, wrapped into a dry sheet, after 2-3 hours the fabric is deployed and coated along the invalid side.
Before wet heat treatment of tissues with a printed pattern, it is recommended to check the dye resistance by soaking the sample.


Cotton, linen and silk fabrics Before opening, you can not decide, but only to try to remove crude and folds, slightly moisturizing and iron from the wrong side of the equity thread. Before decatting, it is necessary to check on a small piece of fabric, whether it remains on it spots from water and iron.
Linen fabrics at first in hot water, press and dry and slightly in a wet state, fly from the wrong side.
Decatizing cotton fabrics, splash them with a spray gun, move from the wrong side in the direction of the share thread. If the fabric is not too dense, then this process can be performed without a spacing, watched fabric steam iron.


Woolen, half-walled Wrap it in a well-moistened sheet in a solution (for 2 liters of warm water 1 tablespoon of vinegar and 1 teaspoon of salt) and leave for 10-12 hours. Expand, fold twice on the equity thread facial side Inside, combining the edges. Ship out the side of the side in the equity direction through a cotton or linen rate.


Natural silk fabrics Have a slight shrinkage. They are sufficiently pasted through a wet path, which combines the share of the thread. But in some cases, it is possible to perform wet-thermal processing (especially strong tissue), adding a little gelatin to water. Then heal and move in a slightly moistened state.
Sloppy, silk and staple fabrics in mo in warm water with vinegar, press and, without twisting, dry in the shade, without sagging and stretching. Fold in half, turn on the equity thread from the wrong side.


Fabrics with lavsan are ironed only with an invalible side not very hot iron through a slightly moistened flannel pavement.
After the decatting of woolen, half-walled, silk and staple fabrics, it is necessary to cut the edges, as the shrinkage of the edge will be noticeably less than the shrinkage of the fabric canvas.

Fabrics made of synthetic fibers When exposed to them with an iron, they give a significant shrinkage, so they must be deposited before opening.

Sometimes there are fabrics with thread distortions. If before opening not to eliminate this defect, the product will be bad, the parts will be kicked, the seams are twisted.
To eliminate the skew of the tissue, you need to pull out along the cutting edge (transverse direction) of the refinement and fold the cloth in half in the equity direction. Align the edges of the tissue along the line left by the rolled thread and the share edges. Cold the cloth along the edges and edges of the pins, then fly through the wet retool, straightening and dragging it.

It is necessary to achieve the disappearance of slacks and races, coincidences of equity and transverse filaments on the upper and lower part of the fabric canvas. But if you notice this defect immediately after purchase, then better fabric Return to the store. This is considered a factory defect and you must exchange such a fabric or return the money.

Many modern fabrics contain impurities of various fibers, as a rule, it is associated with technological features their production. For example, stretch fabrics should be strong, at the same time elastic and stretchable and contain a mixture of cotton fibers. For the production of such tissues, several types of fibers are used, each of which gives a certain property of the tissue, so the humid-thermal treatment of these tissues, decatting is one of the conditions that the product that you will not change its size and forms subsequently.

However, you must take into account that such a pre-treatment of fabric is always required. Therefore, at first, check on a small piece of fabric of its properties, and only after that decide, you need to artificially make a shrinkage of the fabric or not.
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