Permed hair. Modern compositions for perm hair What composition to choose for perm

It's no secret that "chemistry" is bad for hair, but how it transforms the look! This is the reason why the procedure is in demand. Beautiful curls last for several months, eliminating the need to curl the curls with curlers, iron or curling iron. Execute long-term styling can be used on strands of almost any length. How to make a perm at home and choose a drug, as well as other nuances of the procedure, are detailed below.

How to curl at home

At the same time, although it harms the hair, it is significantly less than the drugs that our grandmothers used to make the "chemistry".

The essence of the procedure is the creation of curly strands. In cross-section, straight hair is a circle, and curly hair is an oval. To change the structure of the hair shafts, stable chemical compounds are used.

Note, it is not easy to perform a high-quality perm at home, especially for owners long curls... It is necessary to properly wind the hair on curlers, treat it with a preparation and a fixative, and after a certain time, quickly remove the rollers. It is important not to overexpose the composition on the head, then the harm from it will not be too strong.

Ways of positioning products

Long-term styling can be done with different types curlers. You need to choose the right ones, taking into account the length of the hair, the shape of the curls and appearance future hairstyle. Depend on it all ways to arrange products for winding:

Horizontally

The smaller the curlers, papillots, the more elastic the curls are. The technology is quite simple to learn and apply at home;

Vertically

In addition to the composition for creating curls, you will need a retainer that will extend the "life" of the curls. It can be concentrated, then you will see the marking "1 + 1". This means that the liquid must be diluted with water. The proportion is 1: 1. The absence of a mark indicates that the fixative is not concentrated and is completely ready for use.

Preparations for fixing the results of home perm are usually produced in two consistencies:

• foamy- before use, the product foams well and the curls are treated;
• not foam- they are applied to each curl from the spout of the bottle.

You can make the fixative yourself, based on hydrogen peroxide or hydroperite tablets. But it is better to buy a finished product, where the proportions of all components are guaranteed to be met. The main recommendation when choosing is that the product should be from the same line as the chemical composition.

To the options " light chemistry»Refers to carving, the effect of which lasts 1–2 months. The procedure is recommended for soft hair middle length.

Instruments and preparations

You need to prepare everything you need for the procedure in advance. Then the crucial moment you do not have to feverishly search for this or that tool. Careful preparation will make the difficult process of curling your hair more organized and save time.

Hair curlers, hairpins

Most often for chem. perms are used plastic (plastic) products. They are lightweight, easy to attach, do not absorb solution. One popular choice is bobbins, which create bouncy vertical curls. Flexible boomerangs (papillotes), which form soft curls, are also suitable for the procedure.

The larger the diameter of the curlers, the larger the curls are. A beautiful styling is formed by conical products: the curls come out voluminous at the roots and smaller at the tips.

Advice. A convenient addition to classic curler shapes - needles or curling plates. They are slipped under an elastic band that fixes the curled curl. This avoids creases.

For lovers of original solutions, manufacturers produce such unusual models curlers:

• pins or U-shaped- for stylish "broken" curls. They look like a stick bent in half, the ends of which are slightly twisted outward. The strands are wound on them with a "figure eight";
• Olivia Gаrdеn- to give the hair additional volume, the formation of natural curls. These curlers are attached without clamps, like a designer, so the curls are obtained without creases;
• wide spools with clips. Suitable for girls with hair of any length;
• retro wave curler- look like wavelike plates. These curlers are used in tandem with bobbins.

Depending on the length, hair density and the desired effect, an average of 50 to 80 curlers are required per wave.

Applicator or foam sponges

Used to apply and distribute the chemical composition and fixing agent through the hair.

Fixer

It will help to consolidate the obtained result of curling. It is applied to the curlers after the curl has set. Optimal if purchased together with the chemical composition.

Chemical drug

The basis of the procedure, on the quality of which the future result depends. For home use, you can purchase a composition from Londawave, Estel, WELLA, and another cosmetic company. The main thing is that it suits the type, structure of the hair.

Shampoo

It will be needed to wash your hair before "chemistry". Some manufacturers offer special shampoos that are recommended for use before the procedure.

Such products not only cleanse the hair from impurities, but also soften them, making them more pliable, and also restore the structure of the hair shafts. They are usually expensive, so if the budget is limited, you can take a regular shampoo.

Two bowls for drugs

In one of them you need to put the chemical composition, in the other - fixer (if you need to whip up the foam). Ideally, the dishes are made of glass, plastic or porcelain. The volume of each bowl is about 200 milliliters.

Warming cap or cap

It is put on the head after all the hair is wrapped in curlers and moistened with the composition. Creates a thermal effect. It is more often used for acid curling. A terry towel can be an alternative.

Protective gloves

Help prevent chemicals from getting on the delicate skin of your hands. They are required, even if the sensitivity and allergy test went well. Gloves can be made of plastic or rubber.

Special paper

Protects hair ends from damage. Facilitates the curling process. Instead of professional pieces of paper, ordinary parchment paper for baking will do.

Hairbrush

You can use a massage brush to comb your hair before curling. The process will need another tool: a comb with a tail. With its help, it is convenient to divide hair into zones, grab thin strands.

Hairpins-crabs

In the process of work, it is convenient for them to hold individual strands, prepared for winding. They can additionally fix large curlers if they are not included with the products.

Attention! The only limitation for tools is that they don't have to be metal. This applies to curlers, combs, hairpins and utensils. The metal will reduce the quality of your curls.

Harness

Prevents contact with eyes. Most often, you can find cotton tows on sale. Also for these purposes, a towel rolled up with a roller or a piece of cotton cloth wrapped in cotton wool is suitable.

It is important that the device reliably absorbs the flowing liquid from the hair. On the back of the head, the tourniquet is tied in a knot, fixed in front, clinging to the curlers with a crab, located on the back of the head.

Special bandage

Protects the scalp from chemical composition along the hairline. It is applied to the skin before the tourniquet.

Towel

Absorbs excess moisture after shampooing.

You can also use a caring balm for hair, table vinegar (for rinsing), fat cream or petroleum jelly, a peignoir (a cape made of waterproof fabric to protect clothes), a special bowl for the neck, where the remaining liquid will drain, a timer and a measuring cup.

Procedure steps

Preparatory stage

Before starting directly with a perm at home, use the formulations to make tests for allergic reactions. This will save you from possible unpleasant surprises during the procedure. First, take a close look at your scalp. If there are no wounds, cuts, abrasions on it, proceed as follows:

• apply 1-2 drops of the composition to a piece of cotton wool or a cosmetic disc;
• lubricate the area behind the ear;
• leave for 10-15 minutes.

The selected drug can be used for "chemistry", if during this time the skin does not turn red, does not itch, there is no swelling, burning sensation. If at least one of the signs of an allergy to your face, wash off the composition with hydrogen peroxide (take a 3% solution), and then with water. Skip the procedure or buy a new one. Test it in exactly the same way.

The next step is to check the composition of the reaction of the hair:

• separate a small part of the hair at the back of the head;
• apply a chemical;
• after 2-3 minutes, check: if the hairs are torn, the concentration of the composition is high for you. Dilute it with water in a 1: 1 or 1: 1/2 ratio, repeat the test with a different strand.

It happens that as a result of the test, the hair becomes brittle, covered with a gray bloom. In this case, long-term styling is contraindicated.

Attention! You can not do "chemistry" on discolored hair, even if dry hair breaks after stretching. You can also place a small strand in the composition as a test sample. Hair, which after 10 minutes has lost its strength and began to break, needs treatment, not a perm.

After passing the tests, wash your hair. Do not massage the skin: sebaceous deposits will prevent overdrying. You can replace the shampoo with tar or laundry soap. Alkali, which is present among their components, makes the outer layer of the hair loose, susceptible to solution. Dry the strands lightly with a towel, comb with a wide-toothed comb.

The "chemistry" looks beautiful on the hair, trimmed with a cascade. But when shortening the strands, remember: curling will additionally "take away" a couple of centimeters of length.

Perm

How to properly perm on prepared hair:

When doing long-term styling outside the salon, it is best to involve an assistant.

Safety engineering

Attention! If the hair falls out, is severely weakened or recently dyed (including henna or basma), the procedure should also be postponed.

Perming at home is a risky undertaking, especially if you get down to business on your own. The procedure is long and laborious. Getting started with it, it is important to take into account all the nuances: choose the right composition, prepare necessary tool, carefully wind the curls, do not overexpose the solution, do not forget about the safety rules and much more. Of course, professional craftsmen are also not immune from force majeure, but without the appropriate experience, the probability of making a mistake increases.

If the budget allows, it is better to entrust the creation of curls to a hairdresser. Many of them visit the client's home and charge less for work than in the salon. If you nevertheless decided on an independent experiment with "chemistry", prepare well and test your hair, skin, perform all actions in stages. Take a gentle composition for a start. At the same time, let the curls not last as long as you want, but the hair will suffer less. And do not forget that after the chemical. curling hair needs special care, with which you will take care of your hair and prolong the effect of the procedure.

Useful videos

Hair curling step by step.

How to perm your hair at home.

Beautiful wavy curls at all times have been the pride of a woman. But what if nature has not endowed the lady with delightful curls? Nowadays, nothing is impossible, and in order to make your hair curly, you can use a perm. The procedure can be done both in the salon and at home. How to do it at home and will be discussed further.

About perm

How to make a perm at home? There is nothing difficult in this, it is enough to adhere to the instructions described below.

It is a difficult procedure and allows you to temporarily become the owner curly hair... Such styling helps to always look well-groomed. The perm can really be done without leaving home. Before carrying out it, it should be borne in mind that even the most gentle means harm the hair and completely change its structure.

Hair curling types

There are several types of perm for hair, these are:

• Acidic. Provides long-lasting effect and secure hold. Suitable for any type of hair. Severely damages curls. After its completion, a number of restorative procedures are required.
• Alkaline. This is a softer type of perm than acid perm. Helps create natural looking curls. Lasts a long time, but not suitable for all hair.
• Neutral. It is the most gentle method. Helps to create wavy curls along the entire length, regardless of their condition and type.
• Amino acid. Suitable for owners of weakened and fragile strands. Not only curls the curls, but also nourishes them with proteins and amino acids during the procedure.

Professional stylists come up with new ways of getting curly hair every day, but despite this, many women think about how to make a perm at home.

Preparatory stage

Before making a perm at home, you need to prepare for it. Twenty days before the event, curls cannot be dyed. It will not be superfluous to conduct a drug sensitivity test before a perm. To do this, apply a little product behind the ear and wait a day. If an allergic reaction does not follow, then the product can be used and, conversely, in case of irritation and rash, it is better to refuse to use the drug.

Before this event, you should see how the chemical reagent will act on the hair. To do this, a small curl is treated with a curling compound. If after a couple of minutes the strand breaks, then the concentration of the solution is halved. The procedure is repeated on another strand. If the hair is still torn, then it is necessary to abandon the perm and pay attention to the restoration, strengthening of the hair.

All products for this event must correspond to the type of hair. For long bobbins, a larger diameter is chosen, for short ones - a smaller one. Be sure to assess the condition of the hair before curling. Weak strands should not be exposed to such an event.

Before the procedure, the curls are moistened, which improves the absorbency of the chemical solution, shortens the holding time of the drug, makes the curling more natural and to a lesser extent injures the curls.

Tools for the job

Before making a perm at home with "Lokon", you need to prepare the tools. For the procedure you will need:

• a comb with sparse teeth and a pointed end;
• curlers with a lock or bobbins of the required diameter, about 50-80 pieces;
• non-metallic containers;
• foam sponges;
• plastic clamps;
• beaker;
• gloves, as well as a headband;
• cellophane cap;
• two towels.

To create curls, you can use not only "Lokon", but also ready-made sets for perm.

In addition to tools, you will need citric acid or vinegar at a concentration of 6% or 9%, shampoo, a restoring balm that is applied to the hair after "chemistry", a nourishing cream or petroleum jelly.

Stages of curling "Curl"

To learn how to make a perm at home with "Lokon", you need to carefully read the instructions for the drug. Perming with this product is divided into three stages: perm, neutralization and fixation.
Each step of this procedure has its own characteristics and is necessary to obtain beautiful curly strands.

Curling "Curl"

How to make a perm at home (a photo of the result of the procedure can be seen below), will be discussed further. To carry out the procedure, you should:

• Divide hair into several sections. Each strand is processed with "Curl", combed and wound on bobbins (curlers). After all the hair is rolled up, it is covered with a plastic cap and a towel. From this moment, the curling time is counted.
• The exposure period is different for all hairs. On soft strands, the drug is kept for up to 20 minutes, on the hair normal type- up to 16-18 minutes, on hard curls - no more than 10-12 minutes.
• After the specified time, you should unfold several curls in different parts of the head and see the degree of curling. If the curl has not formed, then the strand is again wound on the curlers. The next curl control is carried out after five minutes. This is done until the curl takes on the desired shape. The maximum exposure time of "Lokon" on the hair is 45 minutes.
• After the formation of curls, the curling agent is washed off without removing the curlers or bobbins, trying not to mix the strands together. A towel is applied to the hair to collect any remaining moisture.

After curling the strands, they proceed to the stage of neutralizing the chemical.

Carrying out neutralization

To carry out neutralization you need:

• Dissolve a third of a teaspoon of lemon in a fourth of a glass of water. Grind 4 tablets of hydroperite to a powdery state and add them to the citric acid solution. Add another quarter glass of water and half a teaspoon of shampoo here. That's all - the composition for neutralization is ready.
• Each strand is abundantly moistened with a neutralizer. The procedure is carried out twice, spending exactly half of the prepared solution on the hair. After processing, the hair is left for ten minutes.
• After the specified time, the curls are freed from the curlers and moistened with the rest of the solution. Withstand the neutralizer for another five minutes.

To fix curls, you can replace hydroperite with perhydrol. Here half a teaspoon of lemon is diluted in a quarter of a glass of water and 1.5 teaspoon of perhydrol is added there. Another ½ glass of water is added to the resulting composition. The consumption of the neutralizing agent is influenced by the length and density of the scalp. The prepared composition should be used immediately and cannot be stored.

Fixation procedure

In order to consolidate the result, a third of a teaspoon of lemon is dissolved in a liter boiled water and thoroughly rinse the hair with this solution. This operation is repeated 3-4 times. Hair after such treatment is soft and pliable, all that remains is to comb and style them.

If the curls are strongly discolored, then the volume of water in the solution should be increased to two liters, while the proportion of citric acid does not change.

At home, it is not difficult to make a perm with "Lokon", you just need to follow the instructions given above. All stages of the procedure must be performed sequentially.

Some ladies are interested in how to make a perm at home for long hair "Lokon". The procedure in this case is performed in the same way as on the strands of medium and short length... The only thing is that the options for curling may be different. Here you can wind curlers not along the entire length of the hair, but from the middle, or curl the hair only on the lower part of it.

How to make a perm at home without "Lokon"?

At home, you can make a chemical wave without "Lokon" by buying in the store professional cosmetics ready-made kits for this event. The procedure includes the following steps:

• Before curling, you should wash your curls without conditioner and conditioner balm.
• Dry the strands slightly with a towel.
• Wind hair on curlers, starting from the back of the head.
• Lubricate the skin around the head with petroleum jelly along the hairline.
• Apply curling agent. If you need soft curls, hold for 10 minutes, for a strong curl it takes half an hour.
• Put on a hat and wrap your hair in a towel.
• Carry out a curl control by untwisting a few curls: if the result is satisfactory, then the product is washed off, and if the strand is not twisted enough, wait another 5-10 minutes.
• Next, the hair is treated with a fixative. Withstand 10 minutes, remove the curlers and apply the rest of the fixer to the curls again. After 5 minutes, the hair is rinsed with water.
• The curls are rinsed with water and vinegar.
• A restorative agent is applied.

Before making a perm at home for yourself, you should carefully study the instructions for ready set... The curler lasts an average of 25 minutes on hard strands, 20 minutes on medium strands and 15 minutes on fine strands.

Contraindications

Before making a perm at home on your own, you need to take into account the tendency of the skin to allergies. In addition, the procedure is not performed on weakened and damaged strands, with alopecia. It is forbidden to do "chemistry" for women with discolored hair, as well as for blondes.

Perm is not carried out during the menstrual cycle and several days after its end. You can not do it to pregnant and lactating women, as well as if a person is taking strong hormonal drugs. Do not resort to the procedure for colds and infectious diseases.

Fundamental rules

Perm strands, carried out at home, requires special attention. When carrying out it, you should adhere to the following rules:

• If the curls were treated with a reducing agent, then the curling is done when they are completely cut off.
• "Chemistry" is done only when the previous perm disappears completely from the hair.
• During the procedure, you cannot use metal products.
• In order not to damage the skin of the hands and nail plate, the procedure is carried out with rubber gloves.
• If the drug gets into the eyes, rinse them immediately with water.
• To accelerate the formation of curls, you can not use a hairdryer, as this will increase the degree of hair injury.
• In the presence of damage to the scalp (abrasions, wounds), the procedure is not performed.

Compliance with the above rules will help to avoid undesirable consequences and achieve the desired result.

About caring procedures

Even a properly performed procedure using the most gentle preparations can harm your hair. Therefore, the hair after the "chemistry" should be given special attention:

• actively use special restorative agents;
• for several days after curling, do not use a hairdryer and comb the curls as rarely as possible;
• do nourishing masks at least once a week and at least 10 sessions;
• protect strands from exposure to ultraviolet rays;
• it is possible to dye the scalp only a couple of weeks after the "chemistry";
• an aggressive method of gaining curls should be preferred to a more gentle method, for example, bio-curling.

A perm made at home looks no worse than a salon. The main thing is not to rush and follow the sequence of all actions.

Curling without curling iron and curlers

Next, we will talk about how to make a perm at home without curlers and curling irons. These devices can successfully replace cotton rags. For this unnecessary thing cut into strips, the width of which for large curls is about 8 cm, for small ones - 3 cm.

Papers-papillotes will help to save the day. To do this, cut out narrow strips from glazed paper, twist them in the form of tubes, fix the end with tape. The strands on them are arranged in a spiral from top to bottom. The tube is twisted with a ring and secured with an invisible or hair clip. This type of curling helps to get large and tight curls.

Pigtails will help to replace the curlers and curling iron. With their help, you can give your hair the desired volume and waviness. Braids are braided on wet, clean strands. The more braids, the finer the curls. Such manipulations are done at night, and the hair should be dried a little with a hairdryer before going to bed.

There are many more ways to curl without curling iron and curlers. They do less damage to the hair, and the result is quite decent.

How to make a perm at home for short hair, medium and long, was written above. From this it should be concluded that the procedure does not cause any particular difficulties for women, and the effect does not differ from the salon one.

The success of the procedure depends on several factors:

1. first of all, you need to know the technological methods for performing a chemical wave, consisting of step-by-step algorithm action.
2. It is necessary to take into account the individual characteristics of the client's hair - their structure, condition, which is important when choosing a chemical composition.
3. Precautions should be taken.

Workplace preparation: tools and accessories

One of the main curling tools are bobbins, the diameter and the final appearance of the curls depend on them. Bobbins have different diameters, shapes and lengths.

The thicker the curlers, the larger the curl will turn out, and vice versa. The number of curlers depends on the length and thickness of the hair.

For example, a woman of retirement age with sparse and short hair will take about 40 bobbins, for a girl with shoulder-length hair of medium density, about 60 - 80 curlers will be needed, respectively, for owners of long curls, the number of bobbins will increase.

You also need to stock up on the following set of tools:

• comb-knitting needle;
• 5 clamps;
• spray;
• latex gloves;
• 2 waffle towels and 1 terry;
• bowl for composition;
• 2 foam sponges.

The composition on the head is kept under climazon, at home you can use the old one as a heater warm hat or a hood from an old jacket.

How to choose the right composition for the procedure?

For chemistry always use a permanent alkaline lotion and an acid neutralizer. Manufacturers of professional cosmetics usually produce several types of permanent lotions with different pH values. High pH formulations are recommended for coarse, thick hair, low pH formulations for bleached and fine hair.

The effect of conventional chemistry lasts up to 6 months on the hair. There is also such a type of curling as biowaving. Lotions of this series are distinguished by a reduced pH content, they have a gentle effect on the hair without destroying its structure. However, curls from such a procedure last from 2 weeks to 2 months.

In addition to chemical compositions you will also need shampoo and balm to curl series "For colored hair" and deep cleaning shampoo.

Safety measures and contraindications

Before the procedure a chemical tolerance test must be performed. To do this, a drop of the composition is applied to the area behind the ear for 25 minutes, then washed off. If, when applying the product, as well as 12 hours after its removal, allergic reactions develop on the skin, then the composition cannot be used.

It is necessary to maintain the lotion on the hair for a certain time specified in the instructions, in no case should it be overexposed.

Important: chemistry is contraindicated in pregnant and lactating women.

Hair perm technology. Step-by-step instruction

Perm performed only after a tolerance test has been carried out lotion.

Curling process on video:

Professional technologists do not recommend drying your hair after the procedure with a hairdryer. so as not to spoil the result. The curls should dry naturally. You can apply a little light hold gel to the curls to create the effect of “ wet hair". After a perm, it is forbidden to wash your hair and style your curls with a hairdryer for 3 days.

Many owners of straight, lacking volume of hair dream of having luxurious curls. Modern perm. hair allows every girl to make this dream come true. A large selection of strand winding techniques and chemical compositions will allow each of you to determine the most suitable view curling.

Over the past few years, many new curling technologies and formulations have appeared, with the help of which it is possible to create beautiful large curls or small curls for several months. All types of curling that are offered today in salons can be roughly divided into two types - classic and light (gentle).

The main advantage of curling with the use of gentle formulations is that the drugs used do not harm the hair. They allow you to create curls different forms and sizes, providing a gentle effect and without destroying the hair structure. But at the same time, modern hair chemistry has a significant drawback - a short-lived effect. After light curling, the curls last for an average of 2-3 months.

Despite the emergence of gentle drugs, classical chemistry has not lost its relevance. Curling with the use of potent chemical compounds is very popular due to its long-lasting effect. Curls retain their shape for 6 months, which is the main advantage of this chemistry.

But since preparations containing ammonia and other aggressive chemical components are used to create curls, there is a risk of side effects... Strong drugs destroy the hair structure. Because of this, the hairstyle after washing out the composition looks lifeless, the hair becomes brittle, dull and thinned. Therefore, after such a procedure, it is imperative to follow all the rules of care and make restorative hair masks.

Acid chemistry

This is one of the most popular methods for creating curls. The essence of this procedure is the use of drugs based on a substance called glyceryl monothioglycolate. The active substances enter the hair, changing its structure. A significant plus is that the active ingredients do not damage the protective scales. Thus, the harm caused to the hair is minimized. The hair does not swell much, which allows you to wind the strands with tension.

Strong tight curls are created through exposure high temperatures... Additional heating also has a negative effect on the strands. Therefore, this type of chemistry cannot be called harmless. Due to the drying effect, these formulations cannot be used on fine, dry hair. Such a perm can only be done by owners of strong and healthy hair.

Alkaline perm

Alkaline permanents have been used to create curls for a long time. But modern gentle drugs have not supplanted this type of chemistry. Such a perm provides a shorter lasting effect than an acid perm. But it is suitable for dry hair. Also, this type of chemistry solves the problem of naughty strands. As a result, it is possible to create elastic and natural curls.

For this curling, drugs are used in which the main active ingredient is ammonium thioglycolate. After being applied to the strands, the composition reveals a protective layer of flakes. Because of this, not only a change, but also a violation of the hair structure is possible. There is a risk of brittleness, dryness, split ends, and a washcloth effect.

If you are choosing between acidic and alkaline chemistry, be aware that alkaline drugs work more gently.

Alkaline perm will not work for owners of hard, thick hair, since it will not be possible to achieve a long-lasting effect.

Thioglycolic acid perm

This is a gentle kind of chemistry. It is applicable for colored strands. The composition used is practically harmless to hair. But you should not count on a long-term effect. Curls after this procedure last for about 30 days.

Neutral chemistry

This modern perm is suitable even for soft hair, as it does not have a damaging effect. The preparations used contain keratin, which smoothes the scales, restoring the protective layer. In terms of the duration of the effect, this chemistry is superior to alkaline, but inferior to acidic.

It should be borne in mind that neutral chemistry has one feature: after this procedure, you must use hair products with a neutral pH level. Otherwise, the curls will quickly straighten and the effect will be short-lived.

Amino acid chemistry

To create curls, preparations with amino acids and proteins are used. The composition also contains chemical substances, due to which the formation of curls is ensured. Amino acids and proteins neutralize the negative effects of chemical active ingredients. In addition, such formulations have a regenerating and healing effect.

The only drawback of this procedure is that the curls last up to 2 months.

It is not recommended to do an amino acid perm on long strands, since the curls will quickly straighten.

Biowave

This modern technology curls are popular with women of different ages... This curling has 3 main advantages:

• curls last up to six months;
• hair looks natural;
• the hair structure is not damaged.

The compositions used do not contain aggressive components such as ammonia. Thanks to this, the harm caused to the curls is minimized. For biowaving, drugs are used, the composition of which is similar to hair molecules. They gently and carefully affect the strands, forming tight, beautiful curls. The hairstyle gets extra volume, the curls look luxurious and well-groomed.

Biochemistry will become a good decision for owners of naturally curly hair. As a rule, natural curls are formed only in the lower part of the strands, and in the root zone, the hair is straight. Biowave will add additional root volume and make curls neat and even.

This perm involves the use of three formulations. First, a protein composition is applied to form curls. Then the strands wound on bobbins or curlers are treated with a protein thickening agent. At the final stage, a composition is applied to fix the curls.

Biowave should be chosen by girls with normal or oily hair. For owners of dry, weakened strands, this is not best view chemistry.

Hair carving

This is another modern curling technique that allows you to create small curls, large curls and even vertical spiral curls using gentle formulations. - the safest procedure for hair. In time, it takes 1.5 hours. Such a perm is performed in several stages:

• The hair is combed and divided into several sections.
• One section is treated with a special gentle compound.
• Thin strands are wound on curlers.
• The same is done with all the strands.
• After a certain time, the hair is washed with plenty of running water and dried.

Light chemistry looks natural. Another advantage of this procedure is that the curls are straightened evenly. This eliminates the need to adjust the hairstyle. After completely washing out the composition, the hair looks the same as before curling.

Like any type of chemistry, carving has its limitations. It is not recommended for long, thick hair. The gentle composition is not able to form tight curls that will hold on to such heavy strands. Also, this perm is not recommended for dyed and discolored weakened strands.

Carving is suitable for medium-length strands and short haircuts... The duration of the effect is from 4 to 8 weeks. The formulations used have a drying effect.

Modern perm with natural silk

Can chemistry be absolutely safe for hair? Yes. An example of such chemistry is the "silk wave". This procedure involves the use of a preparation that contains silk proteins. They do not contain hydrogen peroxide, ammonia and other potent substances that negatively affect the hair. After curling, even damaged strands without shine will look healthy and beautiful.

Natural silk perm is ideal for short haircuts and owners of medium strands. Silk is a fiber, the structure of which has many similarities to the structure of hair. The proteins of this fiber have a therapeutic effect, restoring the integrity of the structure of each hair at the molecular level.

This modern type of curling not only allows you to create beautiful bouncy curls, but also restore the lost health and beauty of your hair. Silk chemistry is suitable for owners of weakened hair. It can be done during pregnancy, during breastfeeding. There are no contraindications, except for individual intolerance to the components of the drug. Therefore, silk curling can be considered universal.

How long the curls last depends on the thickness and length of the hair. On average, curls retain their shape for 1 to 2 months.

Japanese chemistry

When listing modern methods of perming hair, it is necessary to mention about. It was first developed by Goldwell. But today, similar formulations from other manufacturers are available for sale. The main active ingredient in such preparations is the matrix. The same component is present in human hair. The matrix acts on the hair structure, restoring s-bonds.

In addition, the preparations used contain keratin. This amino acid makes hair strong and elastic. Betaine, which is also found in these formulations, nourishes curls and gives them an attractive shine. And the shape of the curls is fixed due to the presence of silicon-cystine in the composition. The unique formula of the drug allows you to simultaneously form tight curls and restore damaged hair structure.

This type of perm is suitable for loose hair of any length.

There is only one limitation: curling by Japanese technology should not be done more often than once every 6 months. It is necessary to give the hair a rest for at least 1 month after straightening the curls. It should also be borne in mind that this is an expensive procedure. But the safety for the hair and the long-lasting effect fully justify the cost.

American Chemistry

The types of curling differ in the composition used, as well as the technique of winding the strands. One of the modern varieties is American perm technology. The strands are wound on special curlers or knitting needles. As a result, after the procedure, beautiful large curls are formed. Bio-sparing formulations are used for this perm. Therefore, you should not worry about damaging your hair.

As the chemical is washed out and the roots grow back, the border between the part of the strands treated with the bio-composition and the roots is invisible. Therefore, even after many months, your hairstyle will remain neat and effective.

Modern perm hair - photo

See what your hairstyle looks like after a procedure such as modern hair chemistry - photos will help you determine the appropriate type of perm for your hairstyle and appearance. Modern types of chemistry provide the effect of natural curls that look like the hair is naturally curly.

Perm was invented by hairdresser Karl Nessler in November 1906. His first client was his wife. For hair health, permanent perm is certainly not the most useful way, but beauty, as they say, requires sacrifice, and the number of girls who turn to a beauty salon to get the desired curls is growing.

Hair curling methods

Hair curling can be categorized according to the type of chemical composition with which the hair is treated. Our mothers and grandmothers curled their hair using acid and alkaline permanent curling. These methods are still relevant, in addition, acid and alkaline perms stay on the hair for as long as possible - from six months or more.

Acid hair curling

The curling preparation penetrates into the hair without revealing its outer scales. Thus, a very tight curl is obtained. However, if you have thin and soft hair, this type of curling is contraindicated for you - the curls will quickly lose their shape and stretch out at the roots. For owners of sensitive scalp and dry brittle hair, this type of chemistry is also not suitable, it will completely finish the hair, and you will have to cut your hair very short and treat your hair with masks.

Acid perm using thioglycolic acid is very fragile, lush curls lose their volume in a little over a month. However, it is the most gentle method for hair. This perm is recommended even for newly colored hair.

Alkaline hair curling

less persistent, lasts up to 3 months. Curls are elastic and look natural. Unlike acid curling, here the preparations penetrate into the hair, revealing its outer scales. This treatment is milder on the hair, but still not suitable for many hair types. If your hair is straight, coarse and heavy, then it will become even less resistant and last for about a month. Alkaline curls are cheaper than acid ones.

Neutral hair curling

has a long history of emollient properties and is suitable for all hair types. The chemical composition of the drug includes allantoin, the curls are strong and elastic, the curling itself is relatively stable, it will last from three months to six months, depending on your hair type.

Amino Acid Hair Curling

contains amino acids and proteins in the preparation. They nourish and heal hair, which helps to minimize the negative effects of chemicals on hair. Curls are soft and natural looking. Unfortunately, curls are short-lived. This method is not suitable for coarse, heavy or long hair, because curls will develop very quickly under the weight of your weight

Hair curling "Silk wave"

The preparation contains silk proteins, which take care of the hair and do not spoil the hair structure. Even bleached hair after such "chemistry" they look healthier.

Bio-curling hair

The biowave does not include ammonia, hydrogen peroxide and thioglycolic acid; they are replaced with a preparation similar to hair molecules that connect the sulfur bridges of the hair. Curling based on such preparations gives hair not only long-lasting curls, but also gives it a completely natural and healthy look. There are several technologies for biowaving, for example, Angel Curls or the Italian technology using bamboo extract.

Japanese hair curling

with lipid-protein complex LC2 is recommended for weakened hair. It is more durable than silk, and a biphasic lipid-protein complex regulates hair moisture, maintaining shine and elasticity. The cost is about the same as for the "silk wave".

American hair curling

ideal for medium length hair. The difference between American curling and other types lies in the fact that special complex designs made of Olivia Garden curlers are used for it.

Root chemistry

Perfect solution for short and shoulder length hair that lacks volume. Also, root chemistry is done in the case when the hair with permanent curling has noticeably grown back. Root chemistry on straight hair will allow you to lift the hair, for example, at the back of the head. The effect of such a curling is lost as the hair grows, and at the roots it will be noticeable in a month. Curling at the ends of the hair is an excellent solution for fine, sparse hair, trimmed in steps or cascades. Hair gains lushness and serves as an excellent base for creating hairstyles.

Wellaformers replaced curlers and papillotes. In beauty salons, the technology of curling hair with the help of latex bags, which shrinks and curls the hair, has recently appeared. Such a device is called wellaformers. As a result of using this new item, you will get a lot of lush, but soft wavy curls. Hair when curling with wellaformers should be of medium length, or slightly longer. This is due to the fact that the hair at the roots in this case remains straight.

Good master in good salon be sure to tell you what type of curling is best for your hair. Before the procedure itself, professionals in their field, first of all, will conduct a tensile test on the strand and a reagent test on the skin. A skin test behind the ear is done to determine if you are allergic to the selected compound. After that, you will be prompted to do a test on one strand with the selected drug. This is required in order to determine the concentration of the formulation suitable for your hair type. If, after using the drug, they look dull and unhealthy, then the concentration of the drug is reduced.

In some cases, the master may refuse to curl your hair. For example, if they are discolored or unhealthy enough that many of the hairs in the test strand break when pulled. The reason for refusal to perform the procedure may be ordinary henna. It clogs the hair scales and prevents the penetration of the composition inside. Before doing chemistry on your hair, you will be offered to make an alcohol-oil complex in order to pull out the remains of henna from the hair, but one session will not be enough here.

If you have recently dyed your hair, then you need to wait with curling your hair. It is not recommended to do chemotherapy during the "critical days". If you were going to cut your hair and curl it, then first do the chemistry, and after the final haircut, but not vice versa.

If the master immediately offered you a perm without preliminary testing, or in the salon they practice only one type of permanent hair curling, which may not suit you at all, it is better to find another master in another salon.

There are two methods of perm: direct and indirect.

Direct method. Each strand is moistened with a chemical composition and wound on bobbins according to the classical scheme.

Twisting according to the classical scheme (Fig. 1, a) starts from the lower occipital zone of the head. Then the hair of the middle and upper occipital zones is wrapped, then - the temporomandibular and, finally, on the parietal. All hair is curled in the direction of its natural growth.

Indirect method. Wet hair is wound on bobbins according to any scheme (Fig. 2, b, c), and then moistened with a chemical composition.

a - classic; b - directional; c - variable

In this case, wetting the hair with the composition is done in three steps:

* a small amount of the composition is applied to the hair to soften it slightly;

* the average amount of the composition is applied to the hair in order to thoroughly moisten it;

* carry out control wetting of hair.

The composition begins to be applied from the lower occipital zone.

After choosing a method for performing a perm, they begin to wind the hair on bobbins, while taking into account the following:

• the width of the strand should not exceed the length of the bobbin;
• the thickness of the twisted strand should not be more than the diameter of the bobbin;
• strands must be pulled strictly perpendicular to the head.
• One perm requires 50g of the composition.

A warming cap is put on the curled hair and the composition is kept for 10 to 40 minutes. The exposure time depends on the concentration of the chemical composition and the condition of the hair. When using Klimazon, the exposure time is halved.

After a while, it is necessary to check the quality of the curl, for which they unwind (not completely, but only by 1-2 turns) and screw back 3-4 bobbins in different zones, and also compare the diameters of the bobbin and the resulting curl. If these diameters coincide, then proceed to the next stage: the composition is washed off with hot water, without unwinding the bobbins.

Then fixation is performed by laying a tourniquet from a napkin along the edge line of hair growth so that the fixer does not fall on the face.

Currently, there are two types of fixer available: ready-made and concentrated.

One fixation requires 50 g of fixer (3-5% concentration of hydrogen peroxide). If the fixer is ready, it is applied with a sponge or applicator to the bobbins and foamed so that a foam cap is formed. The holding time of the composition on the hair is 10 minutes. If the fixer is concentrated, it must be diluted with water in a 1: 1 ratio before application.

After the foam has settled, the bobbins are untwisted and the fixer is applied to the ends of the hair for another 5 minutes. Then the fixer is washed off with clean water.

After that, perform final works: neutralization with a special composition, styling, cutting, drying, etc.

Perm, performed with braids and bobbins

Wet hair is divided into zones, as shown in fig. 2, a.

a - division of hair into zones;b - braided pigtails with ends twisted on bobbins;c - the resulting hairstyle; arrows indicate the direction of hair separation

The first row of braids should be 5cm wide. The number of braids depends on the thickness of the hair; the thickness of each braid is 2-2.5 cm. The hair is braided tightly; the ends are not braided, but wound on bobbins and secured with an elastic band.

The zone of the second row of braids should be slightly wider than the zone of the first row, and the third - wider than the zone of the second row.

Thus, the hair is processed row by row to the top of the back of the head.

Hair strands in the temporomandibular and parietal zones are braided into thicker braids (3-3.5 cm).

After all the hair is braided in pigtails, and the ends of the braids are wound on bobbins, they are impregnated from all sides with a chemical composition and kept for 15-25 minutes, depending on the condition and structure of the hair. Then the pigtails with bobbins are washed very thoroughly with water (t = 50 ... 60 ° C) and a fixer is applied, which is kept for 10 minutes. Next, the fixer is washed off with water, the bobbins are removed, the braids are unraveled and the hair is washed again with water.

At the end of the perm, the hair is washed with a curative emulsion and combed with a large-toothed comb.

Hair is dried naturally or with a hair dryer.

The hairstyle turns out to be natural, with large curls.

This combined method chemical permanent Recommended for those who do not curl their hair with curlers.

To make the hair look lush and thick, as well as to facilitate its styling, a root method of perm is used (Fig. 3). It is recommended for thin or overgrown hair after perm, as well as for hairstyles in which it is necessary to create volume at the hair roots.

The essence of the root method of curling is that not all hair is wound, but only part of it at the root, leaving the ends of the strands straight or keeping the same curling on them.

You can start wrapping from any area of ​​the head. However, it must be borne in mind that if the hair has previously been permed, then the bobbin should be wound, stepping back 2 cm from the regrown part of the hair. For example, if the hair has grown by 8 cm, then the bobbin is set at a distance of 10 cm from the edge of the hair.

The strand around the bobbin is wrapped in a half eight. In this case, the end of the strand is in the left hand, and right hand hold that part of it, which is located on the bobbin. Having made the required number of turns towards the hair roots, the bobbin is secured with an elastic band.

Having twisted all the hair in this way, they proceed to the next stage of their processing: a chemical composition is applied to each bobbin so that it does not fall on the untwisted ends of the hair.

The exposure time is 10-25 minutes (depending on the hair structure).

All subsequent stages of root curling are similar to the steps of a classic perm.

Spiral hair perm using modified bobbins

There are two ways to perform a spiral perm (Fig. 4).

Spiral perm and two ways to do it

A lock of hair is separated in the form of a square (starting from the lower occipital zone), twisted into a bundle and wound in a spiral onto a bobbin. In this case, the turns of the spiral are placed close to each other. The direction of twisting of the bundle and the direction of winding on the bobbin must coincide.

A lock of hair is separated in the form of a square (starting from the lower occipital zone), while it is not twisted into a tourniquet, but is immediately wound in a spiral onto a bobbin, placing the loops close to each other.

Permed hair perm start from the lower occipital zone. Allocate a strand of hair in the form of a square and wind it tightly on a plastic hairpin according to the principle of eight. Further, all stages of the classical perm are performed.

With a corrugated perm, the same curl is obtained as with a perm with braids.

Perm on boomerangs (Fig. 6) allows you to get a voluminous curl. In this case, the bobbins are wound in a checkerboard pattern. All other steps are the same as for a classic perm. The width of the strand should not exceed the diameter of the bobbin.

Permed hair with ring curls

Perm with ring curls (Fig. 7) is used to create volume on short hair. The hair is divided into strands in the form of squares, the size of which depends on the desired effect, and arranged in a checkerboard pattern. How bigger square, the more voluminous the resulting curl will be. The end of the strand is wrapped in a special piece of paper, the strand is twisted into a ring curl and fixed with a non-metallic papillote.

Permed hair - Types and types

Perm has a long history and it has been a long time before this procedure has been perfected. Indeed, quite recently, in all Soviet hairdressing salons, clients were curled in the same manner so that they looked like lambs. Such chemistry looked unnatural and even comical, in addition to everything else, it also burned the hair - in a word, disfigured women as best they could.

Nature has endowed a few representatives of the fair sex with lush curls. But adorable curls suit almost everyone - they soften the features of a woman's face, giving them a feminine look. And for those who want to always have beautiful hairstyle with curly hair, there is a wonderful way out - perm, which can completely change the image of a woman and hide some imperfections in the shape of the face.

Chemistry is an auxiliary method for hair styling. She prepares the hair for curling. Recommended for those who daily use curlers or curling irons. In addition, thanks to chemistry, the problem associated with oily hair is eliminated.

The effect of frizzy hair usually lasts for 3-4 months, depending on the quality of the chemical composition. But, nevertheless, the individual characteristics of the structure of human hair should be taken into account.

Currently, there have been dramatic changes in the field of perming hair. Modern chem. perm has high-quality highly effective preparations and tools that allow any perm improvisation from the smallest to the largest curl. From the previous chemistry, only the principle of hair curling, based on a change in the structure of the hair, remained. Everything regarding the methods of approach to the procedure and the method of curling, they have improved so much that it has allowed modern chemistry to injure the hair at a minimum level.

There are many types and types of perm for hair:

Types of hair perm

Acid-based curling. Provides long-lasting hold, suitable for all hair types, but has a strong effect on the hair.

Alkaline perm. This type has a softer effect on the hair and gives the curls a natural look, but is not suitable for all hair types and lasts no more than 3 months.

Neutral perm. It has a gentle effect on the hair due to the fact that this method of curling is PH-neutral. Suitable for all hair types, it works equally well on all areas of the hair, regardless of the degree of hair damage.

Amino acid perm. Amino acids and proteins contained in the composition penetrate into the hair during the procedure and help them recover sooner.

Types of perm hair

Curling on papillotes creates the effect of naturally curly hair with light, wavy curls flowing over each other.

Spiral curling great for long hair. After curling, small spirals twist into rings without twisting with each other.

Perm "On a pigtail" suitable for shoulder-length hair and below. The strands are treated with a chemical composition, braided into small tight pigtails, the ends of which are twisted on bobbins.

Perm "On a hairpin" looks good on shoulder length hair. Hair strands are wound on a hairpin made of non-metallic material.

Perm with twisting of the second bobbin- part of the strand is wound on one bobbin, and then the second is “twisted”. The result is curls of varying sizes.

Perm "Children's". Its purpose is to exclude the effect of the composition on the scalp. The head is covered with a plastic cap, strands are pulled through the holes in it and the usual perm is done.

Basal perm is performed on the part of the strand adjacent to the scalp to create fluff at the roots or to create curls at the roots of the hair in case the hair that was previously permed has grown back.

Unfortunately, perm has a profound effect on the structure of the hair, which in some cases can lead to serious problems. To minimize the potential adverse effects of perm, follow these simple rules:

• do not dye your hair before perming;
• if you are sick, stop perming;
• Choose products for curling that contain less alcohol and a lot of nutrients;
• to wash your hair after a perm, use a special hair shampoo with a perm or a mild shampoo for damaged and weakened hair;
• to moisturize and strengthen your hair, restore shine and silkiness to it, make hair masks containing useful substances (moisturizing panthenol and keratin, collagens, silk proteins), as well as hot masks using hair oil;
• after a perm, the ends of the hair often begin to split, so regularly cut the ends of the hair a little or apply a special cream to the ends of the hair;
• for better preservation Comb your hair with wide-toothed combs only.

Perm as a process, a mechanism of change ...

Perming as a process

The mechanism of hair reshaping during perm. Perming is a process by which the hair becomes splendid and pliable, and the strands curl into curls of various sizes and stiffness. A variety of styling is performed on the basis of a perm. The main task of this procedure is to make the hair able to maintain a given shape. The principle of operation of any of the permanents entering the market today is the same as 60 years ago.

Human hair is made up of keratin, a water-insoluble protein that contains spindle-shaped cells. In turn, keratin consists of amino acids, one of which is cystine, which stabilizes the structure of the protein, but under the action of perm drugs, it breaks down at the site of the cis-tine bond:

S - CH2 - CH (NH2) - COOH

S - CH2 - CH (NH2) - COOH

After breaking this bond, the hair becomes pliable. Since the hair is wrapped around bobbins, in cross-section they take the shape of an ellipse. It is known that straight hair in cross-section is round, wavy has the shape of an ellipse, and highly curly hair has a flattened ellipse (Fig. 82).

To restore the elasticity of the hair, oxidation should be performed, for example, with a weak 1-3% hydrogen peroxide solution or a ready-made fixer. In this case, the cystine connection is restored. However, due to the hydrolysis of keratin amino acids under the action of a perm preparation on them, irreversible processes also occur - a decrease in hair mass.

The chemical process takes place at pH = 9 - 11; the higher the pH of the composition, the stronger it acts on the hair. The hair swells faster, the cystine S-S bonds break faster, but the hydrolysis of hair amino acids also occurs more actively. Therefore, to

The choice of exposure time and concentration of the drug should be approached individually, depending on the Hair, Their structure, condition (dry, oily, normal), from the effect of oxidative dyes on the hair.

Perm stages. There are three stages of perm. On the First stage They produce a chemical effect using formulations and a physical effect using bobbins. These two processes are called plasticization.

On the Second stage They produce a chemical effect - they consolidate the newly formed bonds with the help of a fixer.

On the Third stage Neutralize - hardening of keratin.

The principle of a perm. The strength of the hair is ensured by the presence of double-grain bridges that create an internal bond in the keratin chains and give the hair its shape.

V first phase Perm is a chemical deoxidation process. The deoxidizer brings hydrogen into the hair, which breaks apart disulfide bridges. During this phase, chemical action takes place.

In second phase Cheating occurs. Hair changes shape when wrapped on bobbins. The torn double-grain bridges in the keratin chains are displaced and the hair takes on the shape of a bobbin. In this phase, mechanical action occurs.

V third phase there is a Fixation.

Oxygen is released due to the oxidizing agent contained in the fixative. Combining with hydrogen, it rebuilds disulfide bridges. Hair is fixed in new form... Its integrity and strength returns to it, but in a new form (Fig. 83). During this phase, chemical action takes place.

The ideal percentage of deoxidation is 30% of destroyed two-sided bridges, which allows you to get an elastic curl and maintain the quality of the hair. On average, this means that every third bridge must be broken. For this, it is very important to choose the right chemical composition and observe the holding time precisely. For example, if you choose too strong a chemical composition or increase the holding time, the hair will become sensitive and will not hold its shape well. Conversely, if you choose a weak chemical composition or shorten the holding time, the curl will be very weak, and such a perm will last for a very short time.

Alkalinity and acidity of solutions. The chemical indicator of the acidity or alkalinity of a solution is expressed in terms of pH. PH scale includes

Changes values ​​from 0 to 14; clean water, considered a Neutral Substance, has a value of 7 in the middle of the scale. A solution with a pH value below 7 is Acid, and a pH value above 7 is Alkaline. An alkaline solution causes the hair to soften and swell, while an acidic solution shrinks and hardens. There are instruments and paper indicators with a special composition for determining the pH of various solutions. So, when a piece of paper impregnated with nitric acid salts is immersed in an alkaline medium, its darkening is noted. In an acidic environment, the color change is not so strong or not at all. If you wet your hair with water and check the pH, then the resulting indicator in the range from 4.4 to 5.5 will correspond to the norm of a weakly acidic reaction. Perm compositions have a pH of about 10 with an alkaline shift. The acidity index in neutralizing substances is about 3, this indicator is located in the acidic part of the scale. Until the master examines the condition of the client's hair and has data on previous cosmetic procedures, one should not use solutions with a pH closer to 7. Lack of awareness can lead to damage to the client's hair.

Alkaline perm. The main active ingredient of an alkaline perm formulation is ammonium thioglycolate, a chemical compound formed by the reaction of ammonia with glycolic acid, the pH of the alkaline formulation of a perm lotion is usually 8.2-9.6, depending on the amount of ammonia. This composition penetrates the hair faster than an acid-balanced one. Sometimes an alkaline perm is done using a water perm, and some hair require a plastic hood and others do not.

The advantages of an alkaline perm include Strong curls (usually last longer); the possibility of processing at room temperature.

Alkaline perm is used to style hair that is difficult to process, as well as to get a curl, if the client has previously turned out to be too weak a permanent.

Acid-balanced perm. The main active ingredient in acid-balanced formulations is glyceryl monotiglycolate. Its pH is lower than that of the alkaline composition. This formulation is softer on the hair and usually produces less tight curls than an alkaline cold curl. The acid-balanced lotion has a pH of approximately 4.5-6.5, the composition penetrates into the hair more slowly than alkaline, so the hair treatment lasts longer. The heat used in this case can be of two types: from the chemical reaction itself (exothermic

Czech method); from an external source - usually a climazon or infrared bottle (endothermic method).

Recently, new acid-balanced formulations have been developed that allow perm at room temperature. They have a slightly higher pH than normal ones, and their active ingredient is the same.

The advantages of an acid-balanced perm are softer curls and longer but controlled processing times. An acid-balanced perm is done if the hair is naturally fragile or colored; in order to get curls or waves close to natural, perm is the basis of the hairstyle. The disadvantage is that acid-based perm is less durable than the classic (alkaline-based), after 4-6 weeks the hair becomes less lush.

Composition of neutralizers. Neutralizers for acid-balanced and alkaline perm perform the same function: to fix the curls for a long time. Neutralization is a very important step. If the hair is not properly neutralized, the curl may loosen or develop after shampooing. Basically, neutralizers consist of a relatively small amount of hydrogen peroxide, an oxidizing agent and an acidic pH. Methods of using neutralizers vary.

Neutral perm. Like an alkaline perm, it has a pH of 7.4, but is much more gentle than an acid-based perm.

Scientists have developed the method of neutral perm taking into account the fact that hair has so-called hydrophilic zones (repelling water), which easily absorb excess liquid for perm, in contrast to hydrophobic zones. A neutral perm smooths out these differences. It protects sensitive areas, while healthy areas begin to absorb fluid more actively. As a result, the hair does not experience additional stress, as it does not swell too much. Neutral perm is ideal for clients who have rough hair after perm and need more protection. A special keratin complex even during a perm smooths out damage in the stratum corneum and takes care of the elasticity and stability of the hair.

Selecting a permanent. The choice of which type of permanent to apply (acid-balanced or alkaline) is made based on the type of hair.

Modern means for permanent provide a wide range of choices. There are alkaline formulations for bleached hair and acid-balanced ones - for coarse, unruly hair. Each of them gives excellent results provided the right choice and following instructions.

Preparatory work. TO preparatory work with a perm include:

* Preparation of the workplace;

* Inviting a client to a chair;

* Conducting a dialogue;

* Hand washing and disinfection of instruments;

Preparation of fixtures: two non-metallic bowls (one for the composition, the second for fixing), two sponges (small for the composition, large for fixing), applicators, gloves, a measuring cup, a warming cap and bobbins;

Hair combing and diagnostics: determination of the condition of hair (natural, dyed, bleached), texture (thick, medium, thin), structure (oily, normal, dry), length: up to 15 cm or more, sensitivity (test: on the bend of the elbow or behind the auricle, apply composition and stand for 5-10 minutes);

Covering the client with linen;

Performing hygienic washing.

All haircuts with a clear, geometric shape are performed prior to perm.

Bobbin types and sizes. Bobbins are concave and straight. The concave bobbins in the center are narrower, towards the ends gradually

Expanding; as a result, the curl is steeper at the end and looser at the hair roots. The diameter of the Straight Bobbin is the same along the entire length, and the curl turns out to be even. The bobbin has an elastic band (elastic) attached to one end and secured to the other when the hair is already wound.

When choosing the size of the bobbin, the desired number of curls and the physical characteristics of the hair must be taken into account. The number of waves, curls and splendor of the hair are determined by the master and the client in a preliminary conversation. The type of hairstyle depends primarily on the size of the bobbins, their number and placement on the head. When choosing the size of the bobbins, hair characteristics such as length, bounce and texture are taken into account, with the latter being the most important. So, with a rough texture and good elasticity, you need to divide the hair into small strands and take large bobbins. Medium texture and bounce requires dividing the hair into medium strands; bobbins should also be of medium size. With a fine texture and poor elasticity, you should divide the hair into smaller strands than with an average texture; bobbins are taken from small to medium to prevent hair damage. To curl the hair on the back of the head, take the smallest strands and the smallest bobbins. To make a permanent curl on long Hair (longer than 15 cm), they are divided into small strands, rolled evenly and close to the head. The division into small strands promotes uniform wetting.

Permed hair

Many women dream of beautiful curls, but not every nature is given curly hair. One of the options to achieve the desired effect is a perm.

Many of us, for sure, had a chance to go through the disappointment of the performed "classic" perm. Spoiled, incomprehensible hair, sticking out in all directions and one dream - to cut it all off as soon as possible. Now there are opportunities to minimize the adverse effects of chemistry on the hair, it is now possible to choose a perm not only in terms of external indicators, but also according to the type of your hair.

True, a lot will depend on the wizard who will make you the perm. From my own experience, I can say that my very first perm was the most successful one. It was done with a soul, but in completely unthinkable conditions, with the most common "Lock". I could not achieve more of this result, which is a pity.

A real professional will definitely make an analysis of your hair type, and will select a perm in accordance with the results. For example, a gentle acid perm is suitable for tired hair. Unlike conventional chemistry, acid curling has a pH value between 6 and 7, which is almost the same as the natural acidic protective cover of skin and hair. This means the acidic curling won't tire your hair too much. If on your head sensitive skin, a biological perm containing sulphides is suitable for you and is very gentle on the scalp. Regular chemicals are only suitable for healthy or very fine hair. Its only advantage is that it lasts at least a widow longer than any other curling option.

And, nevertheless, the choice is yours.

So, what you need to consider when making a choice:

Negative points:

Any hair requires care and attention, perm does not relieve you of the hassle of styling and grooming, rather the opposite. Despite the fact that sparing options for perm have now been developed, nevertheless, the hair is under stress and negative effects and needs restorative treatment. Permed hair requires gentle combing and styling.

The gentle perm lasts less than the classic one.

In many ways, success will be determined by the professionalism of the master. He will not only make a high-quality perm, but will also help you choose the type of perm, depending on the structure of your hair, their health, on the expected size of the curls and their stiffness. If you are not sure about the master, you risk ruining your hair and mood.

There are a lot of undesirable points that can nullify the results. More on this later.

You may need to tint your hair as it can still lose its original color.

If you live in an area with a hot, dry climate, this can also be detrimental to the condition of your hair. They will require more careful maintenance.

Consistency. If you change your mind, you will have to wait a long time until your hair becomes natural, and possibly part with the stubborn part of it.

And now for the positive aspects:

If you have a humid climate, and at the same time you like curls, you should choose a perm, since in the rain, in damp weather, chemically curled curls will only be clearer, which cannot be said about curls laid on curlers or a curling iron.

Perming hair can be done less frequently.

Hair becomes more "manageable".

If you have oily hair, the chemistry will dry it out.

Perms add volume to your hair.

Consistency. This can also be a positive quality if you make the right choice.

If you unbearably want to do chemistry and it just makes your mind feel calmer, do it, taking into account all the necessary information for making the right choice.

Do not perm if:

• your hair is thin, sick, and needs restorative treatment.
• your body is weakened by illness or stress.
• you are pregnant or are taking hormonal drugs that affect hormonal background your body, so to speak, creating the effect of "imaginary pregnancy".
• you are breastfeeding.
• you have critical days.
• you have high blood pressure, if it's low, try to raise it by drinking a cup of coffee.
• in a room where perm is performed less than 24 ° C in winter and 22 ° C in summer.
• you are allergic to the drug.
• you have recently shaded or dyed your hair. After dyeing your hair, you need to wait 2-3 weeks with a perm. Spend that time doing some intense hair care.
• the day before, you treated your hair with a composition containing metal or ursol (for example, "Hair color restorer", etc.)
• you constantly use products containing silicones. If it is a conditioner shampoo, the silicones it contains will dissolve in water, just tell your hairdresser to remove any residues of this product with an exfoliating shampoo. Read more about silicones below.

Perm "killers"?

Silicones in combination shampoos

(The material is based on the book "500 Hairstyles and Makeup Tips. Pro Tips")

Products called Two-in-one are becoming more and more popular. Are they not to blame for the failed perm?

Silicones are different

1. Water-soluble silicones form stable lather and are specially used in shampoos. They are not deposited in the hair.

2. Silicone oils enhance shine and make hair easier to detangle. They are contained in rinses, remedies and in many combination products. These oils do not dissolve in water, but can be washed off with shampoo. At frequent use they accumulate in the hair.

3. High polymer silicones bond split hair ends. Silicones, especially those found in the hair tip care liquid, are deposited in the form of a thick film on the hair and are difficult to remove.

Weak perm, boring coloring and hair hanging limply after each wash - these difficulties are encountered by many women. But few know how to deal with it.

Meanwhile, the use of combination products has made hair care easier. Shampoo and conditioner in one bottle is a wonderful discovery. Time is saved, and often this type of hair care e0e is even cheaper. Unsurprisingly, two-in-one products currently have around 15% market share. However, the growing popularity of these products intimidates many hairdressers. "Perming, dyeing and toning the hair is no longer the same as before. Hairdressers are complaining more and more often," says B. Müller, chairman of the board of the Central Union of German Hairdressers. Hairdressers suspect silicone in many products is the culprit.

Silicones are widely used in hair care products and are generally harmless. In many combination shampoos, their proportion is negligible. The droplets of silicone deposited on the hair make it softer, shinier and easier to style. However, with constant use of the shampoo, more and more silicone droplets are deposited on the hair, which form a film and close the pores. Further types chemical treatment, for example toning or curling, I can no longer the right way affect the hair. Above all, gentle Thin hair become heavy, and the perm does not hold on to them.

H. Daniel from the Union of Hygienic and detergents to protect new shampoos from attacks, cites in-house trials and studies in New Zealand and the Scandinavian countries that found no degradation in perm or toning. But, since the research was very recent and the results of longer trials have not yet been obtained, the doubts of the hairdressers seem to be justified.

Undoubtedly, certain types of silicones are always deposited on the hair. Silicones are specially introduced into the liquid for the care of the ends of the hair to achieve just such an effect. Therefore, if you intend to perm, do not often use products containing silicones.<:>

• the combination shampoo should not be used daily, but not more often than twice a week. The rest of the time, use your regular shampoo.
• you need to buy a combination shampoo in accordance with the type of hair and spend a small amount for each wash.
• for washing delicate fine hair, combined shampoos can only be used in exceptional cases. Hair quickly becomes covered with silicone and becomes flaccid.
• For hair saturated with silicone, the cosmetic industry produces special neutralizers that prevent the deposition of silicone on the hair. These products are convenient for those who do not want to hesitate with a perm.
• When asking a hairdresser to do a perm, toning or coloring, be sure to tell him about the previous hair care.

About perm

What is a perm?

Perm is the general name for the process, as a result of which the hair acquires splendor and pliability, the strands curl into curls of various sizes and stiffness.

What happens to hair when permed?

The substance of the hair softens under the action of an acid (thioglycolic), its natural sulfur compounds dissolve. At this stage of curling, the hair takes on a new shape with the help of curlers or papillotes and is fixed in it.

Which perm is right for your hair?

It entirely depends on their thickness and condition.

It is believed that the thinner the hair, the more demanding it is on perms, since thin hair itself is soft, weak and sagging quickly. Therefore, the curler must be strong enough to fix fine hair in a new shape. Thick thin hair is inherently stronger and better retains its shape, so there is enough "lighter" chemistry for them. Classic curling best for healthy hair. If done correctly, it lasts from three to six months. True, it is not harmful to the hair, therefore, in order for them to maintain their shine and healthy appearance, you have to use special rinses and balms.

If you have a sensitive scalp, it is better to choose a biowave, which contains sulfide instead of thioglycolic acid and acts on the hair and scalp gently and sparingly. The new product is good for the skin: foul-smelling and burning ammonia is not included in its composition. Instead, natural urea is used, under the influence of which the hair swells before curling. This substance is almost odorless and does not pollute the environment. But all the same, no long-term perm is complete without hydrogen peroxide, an oxidizing agent, which is part of the cream for bleaching hair. And this operation also tires the hair.

For tired hair, chemistry with an acid base is suitable. In contrast to the alkaline composition for classical perm, the acid composition has a pH of + 6-7, which is approximately equal to the pH value in the anti-acid coating of hair and skin, which naturally facilitates the penetration of acids into their structure. The disadvantage of an acidic composition is that it is less stable than an alkaline one. Perm lasts about half as long as a conventional perm with a classic composition, about 4-6 weeks. Unfortunately, acid perm is not suitable for all hair types. So, for example, it is useless to try to do an acid perm on the so-called strong hair - smooth and so straight that after each attempt to make waves, they return to their previous state. They simply do not accept the chemical curling fluid. If your waves do not hold at all, ask your hairdresser to test your hair with a special device or just do a test curl on one strand.

Finally, neutral perm - new. It has a neutral pH value, is less damaging to the scalp and works equally well on all areas of the hair. There are areas on the head of every person where the hair is either too rebellious or damaged. Thus, one part of the hair lends itself well to perm, while the other does not. And the consequence of this is an uneven curl, often without shine. Neutral perm has an even effect on the hair and is suitable for all hair types. Ideal for those looking to perm on their own, it comes in wave foam with integrated nutrients. A special keratin complex even during a perm smooths out the damage that has appeared on the stratum corneum and takes care of the elasticity and stability of the hair.

When making your choice, consult a professional hairdresser. It will help you figure out what is right for you.

TYPES OF CHEMICAL CREWS

Curling on papillotes

This type of curling creates the effect of naturally curly hair, creates light wavy curls.

For curling on papillotes, the upper hair is divided by "steps". This gives the hairstyle additional flexibility. The hairdresser separates the correspondingly wide strands and winds them on large papillotes. You need to arrange them randomly. Hair strands should be curled in the same direction, but not parallel. This will create a picture of beautifully flowing, naturally curly hair. Then, curling agents are applied. It is selected taking into account the structure and condition of your hair.

Spiral curling

Perfect for long hair, but can also be done up to the earlobe.

The peculiarity of the spiral "chemistry" is in the form of curls. Long hair is twisted in small strands in small spirals. After curling, they curl in rings without twisting with each other. The same effect is achieved by a hairdresser with a regular curling, if he first twists individual strands into bundles. Spiral chemistry is recommended to dry at room temperature or with a hairdryer with a diffuse nozzle. It acts like a filter, allowing air to pass through many small holes, and does not tangle your hair.

Perm "on a pigtail

Suitable for hair down to shoulders and below. The peculiarity of this curling is that strands, braided into small tight braids, the ends of which are twisted on bobbins, are subjected to chemical treatment. But you can also twist the whole braid. This achieves an interesting effect.

Perm "on a hairpin

Looks good on shoulder length hair.

The peculiarity of this curl is that the strands of hair are wound on a hairpin made of non-metallic material.

Perm with twisting of the secondoklyushki

The peculiarity of performing this type of perm is that part of the strand is wound on one bobbin, and then the second is "twisted". The result is curls of varying sizes.

Perm for children

The purpose of performing a "baby" perm is to exclude formulations on the scalp and hair roots.

Such a perm is performed as follows. The head is covered with a plastic cap. With a regular crochet, strands are pulled through the holes in the plastic cap made with the same crochet. Next, the usual perm is done.

Perm "Gemini

This type of perm has a curl shape: half of the strand has curls in the form of vertical curls, and half in the form of horizontal curls.

Root perm

It is used in cases when it is required to perform a perm on a part of the strand adjacent to the scalp, for example, to create fluff at the roots or to get curls at the roots of the hair in the event that hair that has previously been permed has grown back. The length of the strand to be curled is optional.

Advice:

In order to preliminary determine the intended shape of the curl and the appearance of the hairstyle using unconventional species Perming can be done by dampening the hair strands with plain water with the addition of beer in a 1: 1 ratio or with the addition of citric acid (add citric acid at the tip of a knife to 1/2 cup of water).

A few hours after performing a perm, the hair should be rinsed with acidified water (a tablespoon of vinegar per liter of water);

Do not comb your hair on the day of curling;

For 2-4 days, do not wash your hair or subject it to heat treatment, for example, it is not recommended to use a hair dryer, hot curlers, etc.

Do not use electric tongs;

Do not brush your hair. For this, a hairbrush or a comb with sparse teeth is more suitable;

Do not dry your hair, try not to be exposed to direct sunlight, after bathing (in salt or chlorinated water), be sure to rinse your hair;

In order to improve the hair structure, do not use urine therapy, as the curl may soon "develop";

Use special nourishing shampoos and conditioners to wash your hair;

It is advisable to conduct a health and recovery course for hair.

Gentle hair wash. Ideal for washing with a super mild shampoo for damaged hair after a perm or washing with a conditioner shampoo. Hair breaks less as it becomes more elastic. Lathering with shampoo is necessary for the scalp and hair roots. For long hair, it is enough to clean the remaining shampoo flowing down the hair.

Recovery at night. The effect of chemicals during curling affects not only the outer, but also the inner structure of the hair. Protein compounds disappear, which give the hair strength and at the same time make the hair elastic. This results in dry, brittle hair without shine. Special course treatment in ampoules restores damaged hair within seven days. Ampoules are used as follows: the liquid from the entire ampoule is applied to dry hair in the evening and combed. Over the course of the night, it will be absorbed into the hair and begin to repair the broken joints. Rinse your hair well in the morning.

The course of treatment in between cases. Instant action, ideal for women who are short on time. To do this, simply sprinkle the hair with a moisturizing liquid. An amazing double effect: nutrients are introduced into dry hair and at the same time the curl is "refreshed" by means of massage. For hair especially affected by perm, a nutrient spray should be applied daily.

Regular energy saturation. Regardless of whether your hair looks faded after a perm or not, it should be rinsed well after each wash. Hair masks should be done after every 3 or 4 hair washes. Newer perm products contain light nutrients such as moisturizing panthenol and hair-promoting keratin, collagens and silk proteins. They also add elasticity to the curls.

Soft styling is acceptable. This applies mainly to long hair... Be warned: the hot air of a hair dryer is poison. Blow dry your hair only with warm air using a diffuser attachment, otherwise the hair will become tangled and the curls will not be able to curl. New: drying under an infrared lamp - just like in a hairdresser. A more gentle drying method is difficult to imagine. If you want to create trendy "big waves", roll large strands of hair on the preheated "Soft Styler" rollers. The advantages of this method: the hair remains dry, the curlers are cooled for 20 minutes and do not need clips or hairpins.

Splendid effective remedy- hot oil. This is the latest innovation: it strengthens the hair without leaving any traces of grease. Its secret lies in a new combination of keratinate and protein hydrolysate ingredients and thermal action. Closed bottles with an oily liquid must be heated for 2 minutes in hot water, then uncorked and inserted into damp hair. Thanks to the heat, the ingredients are evenly distributed over the scalp and work better on the hair. Let the oil soak a little and then wash it off with shampoo. Hair thanks to this treatment course become healthier and more elastic.

Natural oils are a treasured boon for hair.

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