Master class for the site "Casket" made by Svetlana Skorokhodova
The shirt is made for a 5 year old boy (height 110-116)
Where do we start working? First of all, let's decide on the material for the future product. For my model I used the old one men's shirt. As you can see in the photo, the item is almost new, but, unfortunately, not in demand by the owner.
To the question: “Why?”, he replied that he didn’t like the monotonous “check” - they say, it looks “collective farm”. Therefore, my task was not only to sew a shirt for my son, but also to diversify the item. So I made a duet with denim. To work you will need the following:
· Men's shirt (size 46.) or fabric - 0.8 cm with a width of 0.7 cm
· Denim fabric (very thin or cotton imitation “jeans”), size 20x30 cm
· Buttons - 9 pcs, thread No. 40 suitable color
· Scissors, ruler, meter, chalk, tailor's pins
· Patterns
Preparing for work and cutting fabric
We took the patterns from the Casket website as a basis. We print out the pattern diagrams on paper in full size and glue them together with tape. We unrip the men's shirt, prepare the fabric, and iron the necessary details with an iron.
We lay out the patterns for the front, back and sleeves on the fabric, fix them with pins - ALWAYS make seam allowances of 1.5 - 2.0 cm! - circle, cut out. You should get 5 parts:
· Back - 1 piece
· Shelf - 2 pcs.
· Sleeves - 2 pcs.
· Sleeve facing - 2 pieces
From denim we cut out:
Collar - 1 piece
· Pocket - 2 pcs.
· Cuff - 2 pcs.
Operating procedure
1. Combine shelves and back front side, so that along the shoulder and side sections of the back there is an overlap of 0.5 - 0.7 cm. We fix the parts with pins, stitch them with a seam of 0.8-1.0 cm. Iron the allowances on the wrong side and sew them off from the front side. This creates a closed, strong seam.
2. We make a double hem on both shelves and stitch. Then we bend the strips onto the front side of the shelves, sew a 1.5 cm corner along the bottom of the product, turn it inside out, iron it and double hem the entire bottom of the shirt. We sew the edges of the planks with a seam 0.1 cm from the edge.
3. Sew down the sleeves. We process the seams with a zigzag. Using pins, we make folds (they should “look” towards the cut). We iron the facing details according to the marks and sew the sleeve cut.
4. Since I used denim for the cuffs, dublin for the gestureI didn't need the bones. Using a hot iron, make 0.8 mm folds along the edges of the cuff, fold lengthwise, iron again, secure with pins and sew along the front side at a distance of 0.1 cm from the edge. Then we attach the lower part of the cuff with wrong side sleeves, turn them on the face and adjust the upper part of the cuff at a distance of 0.1 cm.
5. We sew the sleeves into the armholes. We process the seams with a zigzag. On the front side we sew off the seams by 0.1 cm.
6. We make hems for the pockets: we sew the top part at a distance of 2 cm from the edge, iron the sides and bottom by 0.5 cm. We make markings (3 cm from the armhole, 10 cm from the shoulder seam), pin and attach.
7. Sew the side seams on the wrong side of the collar, turn it on the face, iron it and stitch along the edge by 0.1 cm. Sew the lower collar stand into the neckline with a 1.2 cm seam from the wrong side. Then we sew the top stand along the front side of the neck with a 0.1 cm seam.
8. We make buttonholes at a distance of 7 cm. Between the two top buttons - 2.5 cm. The top loop on the collar and two loops on the cuffs are horizontal, the remaining loops are vertical. The distance from the edge of the product to the loop will be equal to the radius of the button plus 0.4 cm.
We cut the loops with a ripper.
Marking the loops
Shutdown
Iron the finished shirt and sew on the buttons. All. Made from my dad's unfashionable shirt new outfit for my son.
Front view
Rear view
With all the abundance of goods, many are faced with the problem of the inability to choose certain things that are suitable and fit well. This is due to the individual characteristics of each person. The same problem, only on a larger scale, arises when choosing clothes for children. Their growth is not uniform and very individual. Some people's arms grow faster, others' legs or body. The figure becomes disproportionate, and this complicates the choice of suitable clothes that fit well on the child. Particular problems arise when choosing a classic shirt for boys, because... here it is necessary to take into account not only height, waist and shoulder width, but also sleeve length and collar size. It is often extremely difficult to combine all these parameters. The most convenient way out is to sew a shirt for the child yourself.
In this article we will tell you how to sew a children's shirt in classic style. It can be suitable for a special event (birthday or matinee), or for a more in simple form like everyday wear.
Taking measurements
Sewing this children's shirt is distinguished by the fact that all operations are simple to perform. No special tailoring skills are required. However, to sew a classic shirt for a boy, you still have to take measurements:
1. Measure the circumference of the chest. To take this measurement, place the centimeter at the level of the shoulder blades, pass it through the armpits and connect the edges of the tape on the chest. Be sure to check that the tape is positioned freely. (Og.)
2. Measure the distance from the edge of one shoulder to the other, draw the tape across the back in a straight line. (D)
3. Measure the width of the shoulder slope. We fix the centimeter at the very neck and at the extreme point of the shoulder, where the shoulder seam will end. (Shp)
4. Measure the width of the neck at the back. The measurement is taken from the spine around the circumference of the neck to the beginning of the shoulder seam (at the neck). (Shsh.z.)
5. Measure the sleeve length for the shirt. It will depend on your wishes. In this version it will be short, so its length will not reach the elbow. (Dr)
6. Waist circumference. To ensure the size is correct, we place the measuring tape at the widest point of the child’s waist. We make a small margin so that the tape is positioned freely. (From)
7. Half-girth of the sleeve slit. We apply a centimeter slightly below the armpit and lead it to the edge of the shoulder, where the seam on the clothing is usually located. (Ex)
8. Gate size. We measure the length along the neck from the spine to the front, where the collar will begin. (Psh)
9. Product length. This size depends on how long you want to make this children's shirt. The measurement is taken vertically from the seventh cervical vertebra along the spine to the required length. (Di)
If your child is fidgety and stubbornly refuses to stand still and give you the opportunity to take measurements, then use any T-shirt that fits well on the baby. All measurements for a children's shirt can be taken from it or some parts can be traced to create a pattern.
Construction of patterns
In order to sew our children's shirt, you will need to create patterns for all the elements.
Patterns:
- Back – 1 piece;
- Shoulder element – 2 parts;
- Shelf – 2 parts;
- Sleeve – 2 parts;
- Gate – 2 parts;
Scheme for constructing the back (bottom of the shirt)
The example shows an option for a loose shirt for a child with a wide waist. If you want to sew an elegant children's shirt to fit your figure, then the fold on the back must be removed.
Scheme for constructing a shoulder element
This detail connects the shelf and the back so that there is no seam on the shoulder.
Shelf construction diagram
Since we are sewing a shirt for a child, there is no question of a complex construction, the main thing is to maintain the dimensions, add a double strip for buttons or buttons and allowances for hems and seams.
Sleeve construction diagram
You can sew a sleeve for a children's shirt either long or short. It all depends on possibilities and desires. In our example, the shirt light summer, so the sleeve is short.
Gate construction diagram
This gate is designed for children younger age Consequently, the fact that the top button at the very neck will be missing or will not be fastened. (Figure A) If there is a need to sew a more formal children's shirt and fasten the top button, then use pattern B).
Cut the shirts
To correctly cut all the parts, it is necessary that the grain thread be everywhere in the same direction. It should be positioned vertically on all patterns except the collar. On this part, the grain thread is located across the product. This is necessary so that the collar does not become deformed when sewing.
So, to cut a shirt, the parts must be placed rationally on the fabric panel and all allowances must be taken into account. It is best to lay them 1 cm at the seam joints and 1.5 cm for hems.
Symmetrical details of a children's shirt can be cut by folding the fabric in half along the middle line. This will make the task easier and will help you sew your baby shirt faster. Identical parts can also be cut at the same time.
To transfer seams from one part to another, you can use different ways. The most common ones are the following:
- Tapping. To do this, all the marks on one part are outlined with a thick chalk line, then they are folded back to back and the product is tapped around the perimeter. This way, all the marks are imprinted on another part of the shirt.
- Using pins.
- Using a buttonhole stitch.
- You can also use a tracing roller, which is convenient if you do a lot of sewing.
Sewing a children's shirt
After cutting all the parts, you need to baste them in the correct sequence in order to sew a children's shirt without defects.
1. We connect the two parts of the shoulder element together with the wrong sides and baste. Then you need to stitch them together and finish the edges with an overlock stitch (if you have a separate overlocker, then you just need to process the edge; in this case, the seam is already included in the program).
2. The shelves need to be basted and stitched to this part. This joint forms the front of the baby's shirt.
The edge is also finished with an overlock stitch.
3. In order to baste the back, you must first baste and iron the double fold. To make it even, make marks at the folds. Then pin and iron to secure them. Baste the edge of the piece. Connect the backrest to the shoulder element. Baste and stitch them and finish the edges.
4. Align the side cuts of the back and front so that the edges and base of the sleeve match. Sew the shirt pieces and trim the edges.
Thus, the base of the children's shirt is sewn.
5. All connecting seams must be ironed. You can also make external decorative stitching.
6. Now we move on to processing the sleeves of the product.
Since the sleeve of a children's shirt is small, there is no point in sewing the sections together right away. Making a hem after this will be extremely difficult and inconvenient.
First we process the edge and bend it.
And then we sew the sleeve, finish the edge with an overlock stitch, turn it inside out and iron all the seams.
7. Baste the sleeves to the main part of the children's shirt. Then we stitch and finish the edge. Iron the seams.
8. We process the remaining sections of the shirt with an overlock stitch. We bend the bottom edge of the shirt to the desired length of the product.
The edges of the shelf, where the buttons will be located in the future, also need to be bent taking into account the width of the product. The peculiarity is that before this it is necessary to glue this part of the part with cobweb or non-woven fabric. Thus, the result should be a dense strip approximately 2 - 2.5 cm wide. The edge must be stitched and re-ironed.
9. After processing the sections, you can sew the collar of a children's shirt.
It must maintain its shape and therefore needs to be glued. If you use non-woven fabric, you must first glue it, and then stitch it and finish the edges. In this example we use spider web because... a summer shirt with a collar will look softer.
Place the pieces right sides together and stitch all the edges except the one that will connect the collar to the shirt. Finish the edges.
Then turn the collar of the shirt inside out and glue the parts with cobweb.
Please note that cuts must be made along the contour of the collar of the main part of the children's shirt so that later the seam does not pull and the product looks neat. The edges of the connected parts should also be processed carefully.
Only one part of the collar needs to be basted and stitched (it will be the outer part). Sew the details and finish the edges.
After this, iron the seam inside the collar, fold the second cut into the inside of the product and stitch again. This will hide the seam on the collar of a child's shirt, and it will look beautiful.
For beauty, you can also make a seam along the edges of the product at a distance of 3-4 mm from the edge. Also mark the fold line of the collar with a seam.
Thus, we have practically sewn light children's shirt.
A white dress shirt should be in every young gentleman's wardrobe. Sew such a shirt for your boy and he will be the most stylish among his peers! Our step-by-step instructions will help you create a shirt pattern.
Pattern modeling
To begin construction, you need to take measurements(in our case we use a size 36 model): See:
- Boy's shirt length 65 cm
- Shoulder length 11 cm
- Half neck circumference 16.5 cm
- Half chest 36 cm
- Sleeve length 50 cm
Creating a Drawing Grid
Rice. 1. Pattern of a shirt for a boy
Draw a rectangle ABCD.
Shirt length: The lines of the rectangle AD and BC are equal to the length of the shirt according to measurement = 65 cm.
Shirt width: AB=DC=40 cm – half chest circumference as measured plus 4 cm for all sizes: 36+4=40 cm.
Armhole depth: From point A, put 18 cm down - letter G (1/3 of the half-circumference of the chest according to the measurement plus 6 cm for all sizes): 36/3 + 6 = 18 cm. From point G to the right, draw a straight line until it intersects with line BC - letter G1.
Side line: From point G to the right, set aside ½ ГГ1 – point Г4.
From point G4, draw a vertical line down to the intersection with the DC line - point H.
Armhole width: The width of the armhole of a boy's shirt is equal to ¼ of the semicircle of the chest according to measurement plus 2 cm for all sizes: 36/4+2=11 cm.
From point G4 to the left and right, set aside 5.5 cm (1/2 the width of the armhole) - points G2 and G3.
From points G2 and G3, draw vertical lines upward until they intersect with line AB - points P and P1.
Auxiliary armhole lines PG2 and P1G3 are divided into three equal parts.
Construction of the back pattern
Shirt neckline for boys. From point A to the right, set aside 5.5 cm (1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck according to the measurement): 16.5/3 = 5.5 cm. From point 5.5 up, set aside 1.5 cm and connect to point A with a concave line. Shirt shoulder slope for boys. From point P downwards, set aside 2 cm.
Shirt shoulder line: From point 1.5 (neck) through point 2 (shoulder slope) draw a shoulder line 12.5 cm long (shoulder length according to measurement plus 1.5 cm for all sizes) - 11 + 1.5 = 12.5 cm.
Shirt armhole line: From point G2, dividing the angle in half, set aside 2 cm. draw the armhole line from point 12.5 through the upper and lower divisions of line PG2 through point 2 to point G4. Boy's shirt bottom. Set aside 2 cm from point H upward. Draw a curly line along the pattern for the back of the bottom of the boy’s shirt.
Shirt back yoke: From point A, set aside 6 cm downwards. From point 6 to the right, draw a horizontal line until it intersects with the armhole line of the back of the shirt. From the intersection point down the armhole line, set aside 1 cm and connect it with a smooth line to the yoke line.
IMPORTANT! You can model a counter fold along the back of the shirt; to do this, add 4 cm to the fold in the center of the back. The back is cut with a fold in the center of the fold.
Additionally it is necessary to build
Construction of the front of the shirt
Shirt front neckline. From point B to the left, set aside 5.5 cm (1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck by measurement): 16.5/3 = 5.5 cm and down 6 cm (1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck by measurement + 0.5 cm). Connect the resulting points with a concave line.
Shoulder tilt: From point P1, put 2 cm down. draw the shoulder line from point 5.5 (neck) through point 2 with a length of 12.5 cm - shoulder length according to measurement + 1.5 cm: 11+1.5=12.5 cm.
Armhole line: From point G3, dividing the angle in half, set aside 2 cm. Draw the armhole line through points 12.5, the lower division point P1G3, through point 2 to point G4.
Line side seam: From point G4, lower the perpendicular down - point H.
Shirt Bottom Line: From point H, set aside 2 cm upward. Draw a curved line for the bottom.
One-piece plank: To the front of the shirt, add 4.5 cm to the placket as shown in Fig. 1. Along the back, add a 6 cm wide fold.
Valentina Nivina Alexander Nivin
Shirt for a boy 8-10 years old.
This technique construction of a shirt pattern for a boy is recommended for age group 7-10 years old with a half chest circumference of 32-38 cm. In subsequent publications we will offer you other methods for constructing patterns for children's clothing, including more universal ones.
A pattern created using this method can be used not only for sewing a shirt, but also as a basic pattern for modeling other types of children's clothing, taking into account the style, the allowance for a loose fit, etc. For example, this base is suitable for a blouson or a sports jacket. In this case, you need to make an allowance at the bottom for a drawstring, into which you can thread an elastic band or lace. Etc.
To draw a pattern for a shirt for a boy, you need to take the following measurements. As an example, we use the measurements of a hypothetical client with a half chest circumference of 36 cm.
Shirt length dr- 65 cm
Shoulder length Dpl- 11 cm
Half neck circumference Ssh- 16.5 cm
Half bust SG- 36 cm
Sleeve length dr- 50 cm
Increase for a loose fit along the chest line Pg 9 cm for all sizes (from 32 to 38).
As usual, we start by constructing a right angle with its vertex at point A.
Shirt length. Down from point A we set the length of the shirt in accordance with measured by measure. In our example, this is 65 cm and we put point H. From point H we draw a horizontal line of arbitrary length to the right - this is the bottom line of the product.
Shirt width. From point A to the right we set aside 45 cm (half chest circumference as measured plus an increase of 9 cm for all sizes) and place point B.
AB = Cr + Pg = 36 + 9 = 45 cm.
From point B, draw a straight line down to the intersection with the bottom line and place point H1
Armhole depth. From point A we put 18 cm down (1/3 of the half-circumference of the chest by measurement plus 6 cm for all sizes) and put point D:
AG = 1/3 Cr+6=36:3+6=18 cm.
From point G to the right, draw a straight line until it intersects with line BH1 and set point G1. This is the chest line.
Back width. From point G to the right we set aside 17 cm (1/3 of the half-circumference of the chest according to the measurement plus 5 cm for all sizes) and put the letter G2:
GG2 = 1/3 Cr +5 = 36: 3 + 5 = 17 cm.
From point G2 upward, draw a vertical line until it intersects with line AB and place point P.
Armhole width. From point G2 to the right we set aside 11 cm (1/4 of the half-circumference of the chest by measurement plus 2 cm for all sizes) and place point G3:
Г2Г3 = 1/4 Сг +4 = 36: 4 + 2 = 11 cm.
From point G3 upward, draw a straight line until it intersects with line AB and place point P1.
We divide the auxiliary armhole lines PG2 and P1G3 into three equal parts.
Side line. Divide the distance G2G3 in half and set point G4. From point G4 we lower a straight line down to the intersection with line HH1 and place point H2.
Building the back
Neckline. From point A to the right we set aside 6 cm (1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck by measurement plus 0.3-0.5 cm) and place point A1:
AA1= 1/3 Ssh + 0.5 cm = (16.5: 3) + 0.5 = 6.0.
From point A1 we set aside 1.5 cm upward and place point A2.
We connect points A and A2 with a smooth line and get back neckline.
See the picture below.
Back shoulder line.
Shoulder tilt. From point P we put 1.5 - 2 cm down (depending on the height of the child’s shoulders) and put point P2.
Shoulder line. From point A2 through point P2, draw a shoulder line 12.5 cm long (shoulder length as measured plus 1.5 cm for all sizes) and place point P3:
A2 P3 = Dpl + 1.5 cm = 11 + 1.5 = 12.5 cm.
Back armhole line. We divide the angle at point G2 in half and set aside 2 - 2.5 cm along the division line, put a point and designate it with the number 2. We draw an armhole line from point P3 through the lower dividing point of line PG2, through point 2 to point G4.
Side seam line can be positioned strictly vertically and correspond to the line of the G4N2 drawing. In this case, the width of the shirt along the hemline will correspond to the width of the shirt along the chest line.
If necessary (or desired), the width of the shirt along the hemline can be changed (narrowed or widened). In our example, we will consider the last option.
To do this, set aside 1-3 cm from point H2 to the right, place point H3 and connect it to point G4.
Bottom line of the back. Usually the hem line runs strictly horizontally, but since we have widened the shirt a little, we will also adjust the hem line.
From point H3 up along the side seam line we set aside 0.5 - 1 cm and connect it to point H with a smooth line, thereby creating back bottom line.
Back yoke. From point A we put 5 cm down and put point A3.
From point A3 to the right, draw a horizontal line until it intersects with the armhole line.
Then from this intersection point down the armhole line we set aside 1 cm, put point P4 and connect it with a smooth line to point A3, thereby creating yoke line.
Fold. If the model provides for a fold or gather on the back, in this case it is necessary to widen the back (add extra for the fold or gather under the yoke).
To do this, from point A3 and point H to the left we set aside the width of the fold (gathering), in our case it is 4 cm, put points A31 and H10 and connect them with a straight line.
Construction of the front.
Front neckline. The width of the front neck is equal to the width of the back neck. The depth and width of the front neckline have the same meaning.
From point B to the left and down we set aside 6 cm (1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck according to the measurement plus 0.3 - 0.5 cm) and put points B1 and B2:
BB1= BB2 = 1/3 Ssh + 0.5 cm = (16.5: 3) + 0.5 = 6.0.
We draw the line of the front neckline by connecting points B1 and B2 with a smooth line, as shown in the figure below.
Front shoulder line.
Shoulder tilt. From point P1 we put 2 - 3 cm down (depending on the height of the child’s shoulders) and put point P5.
Shoulder line. From point B1 through point P5 we draw a shoulder line 12.5 cm long (shoulder length as measured plus 1.5 cm for all sizes) and place point P6.
B1 P6 = Dpl + 1.5 cm = 11 + 1.5 = 12.5 cm.
Front armhole line. From point G3 along the bisector we set aside 2 cm, put a point and designate it with the number 2.
We draw up the armhole line by connecting points P6, the point of the lower division of the line P1G3, point 2 and point G4.
See the picture below.
Front side seam line bring it into line with the side line of the back. To do this, set aside 1-3 cm from point H2 to the left, put point H4 and connect it to point G4.
Front bottom line. Adjusting the bottom line. From point H4 up along the side seam line we set aside 0.5 - 1 cm and connect it to point H1 with a smooth line, thereby forming the line of the bottom of the front.
Clasp. The clasp may vary. In our case, the fastener is through, located along the middle line of the front.
From point B2 to the right horizontally, continuing the line of the front neckline, set aside 1.5 cm and put point B3, from which down, parallel to the center line, draw a straight line, indicating the edge of the side.
The point of intersection with the continuation of the bottom line is designated by the letter H5.
Pick-up can be cut-off or one-piece.
We build a one-piece selection, and you proceed from your desires or goals. In our example, the width of the one-piece edging is 3 cm.
From point B3 we set aside 3 cm horizontally and from the resulting point B4 we draw down a straight line parallel to the center line of the front. The point of intersection with the continuation of the bottom line is designated by the letter H6.
See the picture below.
Hem width, the design and, accordingly, processing technology may be different. Be guided by your goals and don't be afraid to experiment. We show you one of many possible options.
Loops should be placed along the center line of the front, in our case along the line B2H1, 1.5 cm from the edge of the side.
This completes the construction of the back and front of the boy's shirt. Below in the picture you can see what the details of the cut of the yoke, back and front look like.
This pattern drawing, in this form, can be used as a basis for modeling various types boys' clothes, taking into account the style, the increase in loose fit, etc. For example, this base is suitable for a blouson or a sports jacket. In this case, you need to make an allowance at the bottom for a drawstring into which you can thread an elastic band or lace.
How to build collar pattern for this shirt we will cover in the next article.
A master class for the Casket website was prepared by Anna Baimullina
Sewing machine
Overlock (preferably, but you can do without it)
Machine thread to match the fabric
Needle and thread for basting a contrasting color
Chalk (remnant)
Seam ripper
Scissors
Tailor's pins
Ruler
Main fabric (for 86 size 0.6m with a width of 1.4m)
Adhesive fabric or non-woven fabric (0.2 m with a width of 1.4 m)
Buttons
Preparation
Print the pattern. Glue the leaves according to the diagram; I glued only those that did not have complete details. Cut out the pattern.
Pre-prepare the fabric for cutting: decate (sprinkle a little water and iron) or simply iron with steam, smoothing out all creases and folds.
Uncover
Fold the fabric in half with the right sides facing in. Lay out all the details of the cut on the fabric so that the longitudinal thread DN (it runs parallel to the edge of the fabric) coincides with the arrows on the patterns (if there is no arrow on the pattern, then the DN should coincide with the side on which Fold is written). Naturally, the pattern, on one of the sides of which it is written FOLD, should be placed with this side towards the fold of the fabric. In my case, for ease of cutting, I completed the second halves of the patterns collar top, collar stand, I also made duplicate parts coquettes And cuffs. All the parts I completed are orange in the photo. It is also worth paying attention to the pattern of the fabric. My fabric has a pattern direction, so I couldn't turn the pieces upside down, but if the fabric doesn't have a pattern direction, feel free to flip the piece to save fabric or have a better placement. All the details of the pattern for size 86 fit on a piece of fabric 0.6 m with a width of 1.4 m. I advise you to think in advance about how much fabric you need for a specific size.
Need to cut out:
Shelf 2 pcs.
Back (with bend) 1 pc.
Yoke (with fold) 2 pcs.
Sleeve 2 pcs.
Cuff 4 pcs.
Collar (with fold) 2 pcs.
Stand (with bend) 2 pcs.
Pocket 1pc.
Having laid out the cut details, pin them with tailor's pins. Outline the details with chalk or soap as you like, but I’ll tell you right away that the soap will disappear after the first ironing, so I recommend using chalk.
Cut out the cut details, leaving seam allowances. I always leave about 1.5 cm, because I use an overlocker, and it doesn’t like small allowances. As a last resort, you can trim off the excess, especially if I am sewing a pattern for the first time. Leave a larger allowance of about 3 cm on the top edge of the pocket.
Copy the chalk lines onto the second pair of pieces. Use a baste to mark the marks on sleeve cap, armhole, cuff slit on the sleeve, pin tucks on the sleeve and pleat on the back.
Cut out pieces from adhesive fabric or non-woven fabric without seam allowances:
Cuffs 2 pcs.
Collar (with fold) 1 pc.
Stand (with bend) 1 pc.
Shelf strip 2 pcs.
Duplicating parts
Duplicate details: the inside of the rack, upper part collar, upper cuff And internal parts of planks shelves. On details cuffs, collars, stands And shelves glue the adhesive fabric parts. I’ll say right away that it’s better to glue without steam, and at the temperature that your fabric can withstand as much as possible. Also, you should not move the iron over the parts; it is better to do this with pressing movements.
Now all our parts are prepared for assembly of the product.
Product assembly
Place a fold on the back. Pin together, you can fasten with basting for strength.
We combine the details of the yoke and the back so that the back part is between the parts of the yoke, and pin it with pins. We machine stitch along this cut.
Unfold the yoke parts upwards into the correct position. Press the seam and add a finishing stitch. Remove basting.
Plank processing
Iron the strip on the shelves, tucking it twice. Machine stitch along the entire strip on both halves.
Pocket processing
On right shelf Mark the location of the pocket by tracing the detail of the pocket itself with chalk on the front side.
Fold the top edge of the pocket twice and add a securing finishing stitch.
Using the pocket pattern itself, attaching it to the wrong side of the part, iron all the allowances with an iron to the center of the pocket, first the side ones, then the bottom ones, thus obtaining an even pocket blank.
Place the pocket on the marked place on the shelf and pin it with pins. Sew the pocket, leaving the top edge open.
Combine the details of the front and yokes in the same way as you did on the back, pin, baste, sew on a machine, only the only thing here is that you will have to turn the stitching seam through the neckline or sleeve collar to get a clean seam, with all the allowances inside. Turn the parts right side out and add a finishing stitch.
This way we get all the seam allowances inside. And on the wrong side, nothing will interfere with the child.
Processing sleeves and cuffs
Align all marks on the sleeve and armhole. Pin it with pins and machine stitch it. Finish the seam allowance using an overlocker.
Make a cut under the cuff along the marked line. I did not use the piece given in this pattern to make the cut for the cuff. I will describe a slightly different way of processing such a cut, an easier one. Measure the distance of the cut and cut out two slats on the bias, with a length equal to this distance, multiplied by two and a width of 2.5 cm. My cut turned out to be 8 cm, I cut out two slats on the bias, 16 cm each and 2.5 cm wide.
We use this strip to process the cut like a bias tape.
We fold our strip in half from the inside of the sleeve, and stitch the corner.
Align the fold marks on the bottom edge of the sleeve. Pin with pins and secure with basting.
Combine the sleeve cuts and side cuts, pin or baste. Stitch both side and sleeve sections in one step. Finish seam allowances using an overlocker.
Align the cuff parts, pin together, and machine stitch along the side curves and the bottom edge.
Trim the seam allowance by 0.5 cm, and cut out the corners on the curves; when turned inside out, this will give us a beautiful smooth line.
Turn the cuff inside out and sweep out so that the front side slightly overlaps the inside by 0.1 cm. Iron.
Apply the upper part of the cuff (duplicated) with the open edge to the lower edge of the sleeve. Pin it with pins, and bend the part of the cut that remains on the outside inward. Stitch by machine. Unfold the seam allowance so that it lies on the cuff. And fold the seam allowance at the bottom of the cuff.
Place a circular machine stitch along the entire cuff. Remove basting. Do it symmetrically on the other sleeve.
Collar processing.
Fold the collar pieces face to face, pin them in place, machine stitch along the sides and the flap side, leaving the stitching side of the stand open.
Cut out the corners with scissors, leaving a 2 mm allowance at the corners themselves,
Turn inside out, straightening the corners of the collar with a peg or other means at hand, and sweep so that the front side of the collar covers the seam by 0.5-1 mm.
Place a finishing stitch along the sides and flap side in one step.
Make small notches or marks in the center of the collar and on the stand pieces. Align all the central notches, folding the parts so that the collar itself is between the stand pieces, and the inside of the stand is adjacent to the top of the collar. Pin it with pins. Machine stitch.
Trim off excess allowance by 0.5cm. Cut out corners along the curves on the post allowance.
Unscrew the stand. Sweep, straightening the seam. Iron.
Mark the middle on the back of the shirt itself and the collar stand. Aligning the center marks, place the neck cut face to face with the outer part of the post. Pin it with pins. Machine stitch.
Fold back the seam allowance at the collar stand; you can iron and sweep it for convenience. Folding the seam allowance on the inside of the post, baste it to the outside of the post, tucking all the seam allowances inside. Place a circular finishing stitch along the entire rack from the front side.
Processing the bottom of the shirt
Fold the bottom edge of the shirt 0.5-0.7 cm twice. Basting, I do this in two steps to achieve a smooth edge. Iron. Place a finishing machine stitch on the wrong side, so that the distance from the edge of the product to the stitching is the same throughout.
Clasp processing
On the left strip of the shelf, make markings for buttons, on the right strip, make markings for loops. We place one loop and one button on the collar stand. We also mark the buttons and loops on the cuffs. You throw loops according to the size of the buttons. Make slits in the loops with a seam ripper. Sew buttons. The number of loops and buttons can vary depending on the size of the shirt and the size of the buttons themselves.
Finishing the shirt
After all sewing work I advise you to wash the shirt and iron it well so that all the chalk lines go away.
The shirt is ready! Let your baby wear it and be happy!
Thank you all for your attention)))
