Sew a silk nightgown along the side. Modeling the pattern of a nightgown. Joining shoulder, side seams, stitching in sleeves

Hello Osinochki!
Most of all, this material is suitable for beginners who often think about where to start, this is exactly where my sewing and sewing course began.

No. Name of measurement, formula Points on the drawing cm
1. Shirts length = Di AN 120
2. Shirts width = 1 / 2СГ2 + 3 = 48: 2+ (2 or 3-6) А1Н1 - 26
3. The depth of the armhole = 1 / 3SG2 + 6 = 48: 3 + 6 AG - 22
4. Width of the armhole = 1 / 8СГ2 + 1 = 48: 8 + 1 Г1Г - 27
5. The width of the sprout = 1 / 3SSH + 1 = 6.6 + 1 AA - 27
6. Depth of sprout = 2.5-3.5 for all sizes AA 3 - 3.5
7. Neck depth = 1 / 3СШ + 3 = 6,6 + 3 АА4 - 9
8. Inclination of the shoulder PP1 - 1.5
9. Auxiliary points PP2 - 1
G2P6 - 6
G2 2-3 - 3
10. Expansion along the bottom line 12-16 H1H2 - 14

At one time, during the courses, we were given three options for modeling and, accordingly, we had to sew three nightgowns, today I want to show the shirt that I created for my mother.
Nightgown with a set-in sleeve "flashlight", a set-in rectangular yoke with a gather at the front, a frill at the bottom.

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This shirt was sewn from vintage, thinnest calico from my mother's stock, the very ones that I had to alter when I studied.
Next, we model a shirt based on a drawing of a shirt with a one-piece sleeve, circle the model without a sleeve.
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When building the main drawing, set aside the width of the shirt without an allowance for freedom, it is already laid down in the pattern itself - the base.

Formations in the front
Shorten the shoulder cut by 1-2 cm, draw a new line of the armhole, in the middle of the front to the bottom from the neck, set aside the length of the yoke 22-26 cm and the width 10-14, apply the lines of the yoke and cut off.
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To the middle of the front of the yoke, add 1.5 cm - the allowance for the fastener - the fold line and 3 cm for the processing of the one-piece strip, put 3-5 times inside the yoke from the middle (the number of times depends on the size of the yoke) every 1.5 cm, apply the cut lines , cut the pattern along these lines and, when cutting, push its parts apart by 1.5 cm.
When cutting the lower part of the front blade, add, from the fold of the fabric,
4-6 cm for assembly.
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Building on the back
Shorten the back shoulder by 1-2 cm.
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Build a sleeve

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Draw two mutually perpendicular lines with an intersection at point P, from point P upwards postpone the height of the okat 18-22cm - point O, from point O to the bottom lay the length of sleeves 32-36, measure the length of the armhole of the front shirt (back) for example: 28 cm + 4-6 = 28 + 6 = 32 cm and P = 32 cm from point O make notches on a horizontal line, points P1, P2 connect straight lines with point O, divide them into three parts, in turn 1/3, which is closer to divide the bottom of the armhole in half, draw the ridge with a smooth curve. The side cuts can be expanded by 1-2 cm. Draw the bottom with a smooth curved line, apply a stitching line for the elastic
To build a frill, measure the sewing line of the bottom of the shirt, for example: 80, increase this value by 1.5 or 1.7 times, about 140 cm.
Cut out the details of the product, make an increase in the seams of 1 cm, along the neckline - 0.5 cm.
Processing sequence
All processing of a product from a notebook is given without the use of an overlock, then not everyone heard such a word, but now, if there is such a miracle of sewing technique, then it is a sin not to use it.
1. Mark the midpoints.
2. Process the yoke.

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Fold the allowance for fastening processing (3 cm) along the fold line to the front side and stitch a 2 cm ledge along the upper cut of the neck, bringing the stitch at an angle to the cuts, from the side of the stitches, make a notch in the corner. Iron the sections to the bent allowance so that from the line to the fold is 0.1 cm, turn the corner, straighten, iron out.
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Bend the entire fastener on the wrong side along the first line "1.5 cm", iron and stitch
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2 more (I got 5 folds - it depends on the size of the yoke itself and on your desire) finishing folds, iron it.
3. Mark and punch buttonholes.
I placed the first button 1 cm below the neckline
4. Sketch the right side of the yoke over the left, aligning the middle.

5.Stitch amplifiers (squares cut from the fabric of the product 4 * 4) to the corners of the lower fabric of the front from the seamy side.

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A seam 1 cm wide, cut the protruding part of the reinforcement to the product cuts. This text is from my old notebook, but progress does not stand still and it is better to watch a video lesson from Galina Balanovskaya "Corner in a relief seam" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9m8X8PIxHfI
6. Assemble the front part of the shirt (shelf) for assembly, distribute it evenly.

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7. Attach the lower part of the yoke to the sewing line of the fabric, strictly to the corners of the reinforcement stitching and secure it with a reverse stitching 2-3 cm, make notches in the corners on the product. Sweep and stitch the yoke along vertical lines, sweep all the cuts from the inside out together with the amplifier, trimming it to the cut of the yoke and shirt. Press the seams on the yoke and fasten them together at the corners with hand stitches. Again, I repeat, it is better to do it according to Galina Balanovskaya's MK.
8.Stitch shoulder seams with a seam, sew up with a back; I made it easier - I stitched it, processed it with an overlock.
9. Cut out the ruff of the neck

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Width 3.5 cm, length 90-100 cm

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10.Treat the upper cut with narrow lace, iron it, secure the cut of the neck with a machine stitch, sweep the ruff to the cuts of the neck, strictly aligning the middle, folding the parts with the wrong (front) sides inward
trim the sections and edging with an oblique inlay 3.5 cm wide, 100 cm long, stitching it from the side of the ruffle.

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Sleeve
Finish the bottom of the sleeves with lace.
Apply lace to the right side of the sleeve with the wrong side, baste and stitch.

A person spends most of his life in a dream, and therefore during sleep he should be comfortable, and for this he needs comfortable clothes made from natural fabrics. Most women find it easier to buy a sleeping accessory in the store, but there are also those who would like to sew a nightgown by themselves. You will ask quite a natural question, how to sew it yourself? It couldn't be easier: first you need to choose a fabric. It all depends on which model you choose and for what season: chintz is a summer version, cotton or flannel is an autumn-winter one. We bring to your attention a few easy-to-sew models of nightgowns

Below are master classes with photos.

with one-piece sleeve

Before you start sewing, you need to take measurements of the girth of the chest, the length of the product, and if the woman is plump, you need to take another measurement - the girth of the upper arm.

When drawing up patterns, skills are needed, but not all of these skills have. Therefore, they will be simple.

When sewing, we need:

Fabric - approximately 2 m long, 70 cm wide.
Lace ribbon.
Scissors.
Chalk.
Ruler.

You choose the material to your taste, but natural fabrics are better for the body, you feel comfortable in such a product.

For a pattern, two measurements are needed: the girth of the chest and the length of the product, sizes and shapes can be played, as far as imagination tells.

To cut the product, the pattern must be on thick paper.

Let's start designing the pattern:

On whatman paper we build a figure with the designation ABVG (it is built according to the measurements of the chest and the length of the product).

First, draw the ABGB figure. Distance AG is the length of the product, AB is the chest circumference + 2 cm.

Mark A: set aside 7 cm to the right and 2 cm down and put D and D1. Draw a line between them, mark the neck from the back. Then we put aside 8 cm from top to bottom and put the mark D2. The AD2 line marks the front throat.

We draw a sleeve on the pattern, set aside 10 cm from mark B, mark how 16 cm is deposited from below, this mark will be K1. From K1 we draw a perpendicular line to the BV line. Let us designate the place of interception by J. Set aside 7 cm to the left and downward, designate E and E1, connect the marks with a line. We draw the lower part of the product.

Point B: set aside 7 cm to the right B1. We connect the B1 and E marks. B1 put aside point I 2 cm from above. Marks I and B are combined. The pattern is ready, cut it out. The fabric should be folded in half with the right side inward, put the pattern on the fabric, pin it with needles, and carefully begin to trace at a distance of 1.5 cm from the pattern, these are seam allowances.

Carefully cut out, the parts of the nightgown are folded right side to each other. The lines of the shoulder and sides are sewn with a temporary thread, the bottom is folded twice and also hemmed with a temporary hut, then we sew it on a sewing machine.

Now we process the neckline, we also need to sew an oblique inlay or a strip of fabric to it with a temporary hut, we sew it on a typewriter. We turn it to the front side, iron it with an iron so that the fold line is as even as possible, bend the rest of the inlay or a strip of fabric, sew it with a temporary hut, and then sew it on a typewriter, remove the temporary thread after sewing the part.

On the neckline, you can sew an openwork tape and along the edges of the sleeves, decorate as your imagination tells you. The nightgown with a one-cut sleeve is ready, it remains to iron it.

How to sew a nightgown with your own hands on spaghetti straps

For this model, measurements are not needed; a summer sundress can be used as a pattern.

To work we need:

Fabric (choose according to your taste).
Slanting binding.
Sections of wide satin ribbons.
Scissors.

We will sew a shirt on straps.

To make the product wavy when cutting, the fabric must be cut at an angle of 45% to the hem. Leave seam allowances from 0.5 to 1 cm.

After the fabric has been cut, we fold the parts with the front side inward, the sides need to be swept and stitched. Then iron the seams from the wrong side with a track, process the edges of the seams on an overlock or a small zigzag seam.

Let's take care of the neckline: we sew an oblique inlay to it with a temporary thread, at the same time we mark the places where the straps will be in front and on the back. We sew the inlay on the typewriter to the places of the marks, insert the straps and sew the inlay together with them.

Let's move on to the bottom of the shirt: if you want the hem to be wavy, the bias tape needs to be stitched with a zigzag seam.

The nightgown is ready, it remains only to decorate it, here your imagination will help you.

Model on a yoke

We chose a fabric, the footage needs two lengths of the product, for work we need: fabric, threads, scissors, a sewing machine.

Now you need to make a pattern for the selected model.

Pattern

As a basis, we take some T-shirt according to your size, thick paper, pin it to the paper and trace it along the contours. From the shoulder down we draw a line of the desired length of the product. From the bottom edge of the armholes we draw a trapezoid or straight cut, all as you wish. We connect the lower points of the drawing with a line, this will be the bottom of the nightdress. Draw the lines of the yoke, then cut it off from the main pattern. We will slightly correct the armholes, you need to cut off two centimeters on the upper part of the armholes along the oblique line. The pattern is now ready. We cut out a pattern of each part in 2 pieces.

Tip: do not forget to make 1.5-2 cm seam allowances. The fabric has been cut out.

We take the yoke, tuck its upper edge and sew it on a typewriter, after that we sew the yoke to the top of the nightgown, process the seam on it as well as the side ones. The hem of the shirt must be tucked up twice, sewn on a typewriter. Our nightgown with a yoke is almost ready, it remains to iron it and decorate it with decor, then the will of your imagination.

Model in cambric with lace

We buy fabric batiste footage according to your size, lace with embroidery on the mesh, it will not crumble when worn and washed.

When cutting this model, a dress pattern was used, do not forget to leave seam allowances of about 1.5–2 cm.

Assembling the nightgown: at the beginning, we collect the parts of the front, then the backs. We turn the edges of the armholes, sew, From the cambric strips left in advance we sew and sew on the straps. Sew the details of the front and back together. We fold the bottom of the shirt and sew it. Nightgown from cambric with lace is ready

Shirt model for girls

You will need: light fabric, thread, scissors, a sewing machine.

We need a child's T-shirt, thick paper, pin the T-shirt to the paper and trace it along the contours. From the shoulder down we draw a line of the desired length of the product. From the bottom edge of the armholes we draw a trapezoid or straight cut, all as you wish. We connect the lower points of the drawing with a line, this will be the bottom of the nightdress. Draw the lines of the yoke, then cut it off from the main pattern. We will slightly correct the armholes: you need to cut off two centimeters on the upper part of the armholes along the oblique line. The pattern is now ready. We cut out a pattern of each part in 2 pieces.

Tip: do not forget to make seam allowances of 1.5–2 cm.

We fold the parts with the right side inward, sew with a temporary seam, sew the side seams on a sewing machine, process the seams on an overlock or a zigzag seam. We unfold the side seams and iron them with an iron, this is necessary so that the seam is even. We take the yoke, tuck its upper edge and sew it on a typewriter, after that we sew the yoke to the top of the nightdress, slightly gathering it, we also process the seam on it, as well as the side ones. The hem of the shirt must be tucked up twice, sewn on a typewriter.

Our nightgown for girls is ready, you can decorate with flowers or butterflies, make the edging of the yoke under the breast.

MODEL 1

The nightgown pattern for the first model is done quickly and without much difficulty, but the product looks very cute, thanks to the lace stripes on the sides and bottom of the shirt. See how you need to model a basic pattern. The blue lines show the new contours of the nightgown, along which you will then need to cut the pattern. The bust side dart on the bodice closes to reveal the tucked dart. And on the skirt, tackle darts are not taken into account at all.

It is necessary to give a small increase in the girth of the chest about 6 cm, in the girth of the hips from 8 to 12 cm. sew along the entire length of the side.

The shirt has a detachable bodice, which is connected to the skirt with a seam, planted on an elastic band. The upper center of the bodice is trimmed with narrower lace, and the bodice milestone is fitted with an elastic band on the back. The length of the straps is specified on the fitting.

MODEL 2

The second model is more complex than the first. It has more auxiliary lines, but the basic pattern is the same. The cut-off bodice is divided into three parts at the front. On the side details of the bodice, the bust darts must be closed. Below the bodice there is an insert made of, with a narrow lace sewn along the bottom. The top of the bodice is finished with the same lace. The skirt on the front also consists of three parts, and on the bottom there are decorative details, in the form of a cut with a bow and original corner inserts in lace stripes.

The back stays the same as the basic pattern, only without the tackle darts. An increase of about 6 cm should be given to the girth of the chest, about 10 cm to the girth of the hips. After cutting the pattern, you will receive such a set of parts. On the top of the bodice on the back, you can sew an elastic tape for convenience.

This is how you can simulate these women's nightgowns. If you have a desire to create them for yourself with your own hands, then these methods of constructing patterns can be useful to you. Nightgowns with straps will be especially relevant on hot summer days. Natural fabrics will help to maintain comfort and convenience during rest.

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Construction of a pattern of a skirt for a year

Flared skirts have always been popular, but their models are very different from each other. They then leave our wardrobes, then come back again. Building a pattern ...

One of the components of a comfortable sleep is the clothes in which you sleep. She should be comfortable, pleasing to the body and beautiful. I propose to sew such a nightgown with your own hands. It is spacious, with a short one-piece sleeve, gathering (small pleats) in the front and lace.

Do-it-yourself nightgown, pattern and sewing are discussed in detail in this article. By following the instructions below, you can make a custom made nightgown that will make you sleep comfortably and pleasantly.

We will model the pattern of the nightgown on the pattern - the basis of the dress, if you do not have it yet, build it according to the recommendations proposed in the article.

Modeling the pattern of the nightgown shelf:

We mark the required length, which we want to see in the finished product (I have 90 cm). We ignore the tuck... From the bottom point of the armhole down along the line of the side seam, set aside 3 cm, draw a line to the top of the breast dart (blue line in the drawing below), cut and move apart, thereby close the bust dart(we combine both sides in one line).

Building a side seam line: from the bottom point of the armhole, extend the 3 cm segment to the level of the bottom line. We finish the bottom line to the intersection with the side seam line (red lines in the drawing below).

Neck line: set aside 5 cm from the top of the neck along the shoulder line, and 2 cm from the bottom along the middle of the shelf. Draw a new neck line.

Construction of a one-piece sleeve: lengthen the shoulder line by 10 cm. From the top point of the armhole, draw a perpendicular to the shoulder line 0.5 cm long (line 1 in the drawing). We draw an arc through the end of segment 1, as shown in the drawing. Along the line of the side seam, we retreat from the bottom point of the armhole by 6 cm.At an angle of 45 degrees, we draw a segment 5 cm long (line 2 in the drawing). We control the value between the ends of the shoulder seam line and line 2, it should not be less than ½ of the desired width of the bottom of the sleeve otherwise, line 2 needs to be shifted down. Draw a line for the bottom of the sleeve. We design the line of the lower seam of the sleeve in the form of a smooth arc line.

Build Modeling (Small Folds): from the transition point of the lower seam of the sleeve to the side seam of the shelf, we retreat along the line of the side seam down by 3 cm. From the chest line along the line of the middle of the shelf, set aside 5 cm. Draw an arc. Along this arc, we cut the shelf into two parts: upper and lower. We attach a rectangle to the middle line of the lower part of the shelf, with a width equal to about ¼ of the length of the waist line by ½ part of the shelf (in the case of such a "modest" assembly as mine). If you want to get a fuller assembly, the width of the rectangle must be increased. It should be remembered that the fabric has a width limitation, and if ½ of the shelf with seam allowances turns out to be wider than the fabric folded in half, the shelf will need to be cut in two pieces and connected with a vertical seam.

Modeling the pattern of the back of the nightgown:

Mark the length line. We ignore the tuck.

Neck line: set aside 5 cm from the top of the neck along the shoulder line, and 5 cm from the bottom along the middle of the back. Draw a new neckline.

We build the shoulder line in the same way as the shoulder line of the shelf, copy the side seam line from the shelf... The shoulder and side seam lines of the back should be the same as the shoulder and side seam lines of the front.

Draw a line for the bottom of the sleeve (green line in the drawing below).

Nightgown pattern

When cutting to fabric, allowance must be added for seams and processing of the bottom of the sleeve and neck - 1 cm.For the hem of the bottom - 3 cm. If you plan to process the bottom of the sleeves with hem, then add a 2 cm allowance along the bottom of the sleeves.

The direction of the common thread of the fabric should be in line with the center line of the front and back.

How to cut an oblique strip for processing the neck and bottom of the sleeves, see the article.

The photo below shows the layout of the shelf parts on the fabric and the construction of allowances. I did not glue the tracing paper to the bottom part of the shelf for adding a rectangle for frills, but immediately leave the rectangle on the fabric, stepping back from the fold line by 7cm.

Stages of sewing a nightgown

To avoid shedding ("fringe") on the fabric cuts, I zig-zag all the details of the nightgown immediately after cutting. You can do your own thing and overcast the edges of the fabric after sewing the appropriate seams.

On top of the bottom part of the shelf, we lay two auxiliary parallel lines with a stitch length of 4 mm, at distances of 0.7 and 1.5 cm from the edge, leaving the long ends of the threads:

We tighten the threads to the size of the bottom of the part of the top of the shelf, in this way the fabric is smoothed and the assembly is formed. We distribute the folds so that the greatest density is in the center above the mammary glands, and there are practically no folds along the edges of the fabric under the arms. We cut off with tailor's pins or we sweep the lower part of the shelf to the upper one (face to face):

We sew with a straight line at a distance of 1 cm from the edge, in this case it will just pass between the auxiliary lines.

We remove the lower auxiliary line, the upper one can be left. We iron the allowance up, on the upper part of the shelf:

We lay a line securing the allowances, stepping back from the seam 2 mm up:

We put lace on the line, fix it with tailor's pins and grind it with a straight line ..

5. Bend the bottom by 1.5 cm and again by 1.5 cm, iron it or mark it, lay a straight stitch at a distance of 2 mm from the edge of the hem fold.

The nightgown is ready.

Today we reviewed and sewed a one-piece sleeved nightgown with gather and lace front. I am sure that creating a nightgown with your own hands, sewing and sewing did not cause any difficulties for you, and you have a new thing for a comfortable sleep.

NIGHT SHIRT (pattern)

Well-washable fabrics are recommended for the manufacture of lingerie: cotton, staple and silk, of various light colors, smooth or with a small pattern.
Lingerie can be trimmed with stitching, lace, embroidery, frills, trims, etc.

NIGHTSHIRT

The figure shows a nightgown with a yoke and a large neckline; front and back under the yoke - assemblies. The bottom of the shirt is trimmed with a frill. Sleeves are short one-piece, gathered at the bottom and end with cuffs. Fabric consumption for an average size of 3.5 m with a width of 80 cm.
To build a drawing of a nightgown pattern, the following measurements were taken (in cm):
Neck semicircle ......................... 18
»Breasts. ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 48
Arm circumference above the elbow ............. 32
The length of the shirt with a frill ....... 120
"Sleeves ........................... 13

Building a drawing of the back and front

The pattern drawing of the back and front of the nightgown can be done as follows.
On a sheet of paper, build a rectangle АА1НН, (Fig. 22, a).
The vertical sides of the rectangle are equal to the length of the shirt minus the width of the frill: AH = A1H1 = 120 - 20 = 100 cm.
The horizontal sides of the rectangle are equal to half the semicircle of the chest plus 3 cm (for free fit for all sizes) and plus 6 cm (increase for gatherings): AA1 = HH1 = (48: 2) + 3 + 6 = 33 cm.
Armhole depth line. From point A, lay down the vertical depth of the armhole, equal to half the semicircle of the chest, and put the point G: AG = 48: 2 = 24 cm.
From point G, draw a horizontal line to the right parallel to AA1, and put point G1 at the intersection with the vertical line. Straight line ГГ1 will be the line of the armhole depth.
The length of the bottom seam of the sleeve. From point D, lay 4 cm up vertically and from this point draw a horizontal line to the left equal to the length of the sleeve, or 5 cm.Connect points 5 and D with a smooth line, as shown in the drawing.
Sleeve bottom line. From point A, continue the horizontal line to the left by 6 cm.Connect points 6 and 5 with an auxiliary line, continue it upwards by 3 cm.Cut this line in half and from the dividing point set aside 1 cm to the left.Connecting points 3, 1 and 5 with a smooth line, we get sleeve bottom line.
Sleeve top seam length. From point b, to the right along the horizontal line, the length of the sleeve is 13 cm.
Connect points 12 and 13 with a straight line.
Sewing line of the yoke on the back of the shirt. From point Г1, set aside 12 cm vertically. Connect points 12 and 13 with an auxiliary line. Divide this line into three parts. From the left dividing point, lay 4 cm down at a right angle, and 3 cm from the right one. Connect points 13, 4, 3, 12 with a smooth line.
Sewing line of the yoke on the front of the shirt. From point 12, lay down 4.5 cm vertically. From the left dividing point (on the auxiliary line), lay 6 cm down along the perpendicular, and from the right - 7 cm. Connect points 13; 6; 7; 4.5 in a smooth line.
Side seam line. From point H, continue the horizontal line to the left by 6 cm; connect points b and D with a straight line.
Ruffle sewing line. Divide the side of the rectangle НН1 in half. From point b, put up 1.5 cm. Connect point 1.5 with the dividing point and continue the line to point H1. We get a line of sewing on the ruffles on the back of the shirt.
From point H1, continue the vertical line down by 2 cm. From point 2, draw to the left parallel to HH1 a straight line 15 - 20 cm long, which is connected to point 1 5 with a smooth line. We get a line of sewing on the frill on the front of the shirt.
Building a drawing of a yoke for the back
Construct a right angle with an arbitrary length of the sides; mark the top of the corner with point B (Fig. 22, b).
Neck line. From point B to postpone to the left horizontally a distance equal to a third of the measurement of the semicircle of the neck plus 7 cm, and put point B1: BB1 = 18: 3 + 7 = 13 cm.
From point B, put down the vertical distance equal to the measurement of the semicircle of the neck minus 1.5 cm, and put point B2: BB2 = 18: 3 - 1.5 = 4.5 cm.
Connect points B1 and B2 with an auxiliary line and divide it into three parts. From the right dividing point, lay down 1.5 cm at a right angle, and 2 cm from the left dividing point. Connect points B1, 2; 1.5 and B2 with a smooth line - the line of the neckline.
Yoke width. From point B2, lay down vertically the width of the yoke 6 cm, from point B1 to the left horizontally also 6 cm.Connect both points b with a smooth line parallel to the neckline.
Shoulder line. From point b (on the horizontal) lay down 1.5 cm; points 1.5; Connect B1 with a straight line.
Building a drawing of a yoke for the front
Construct a right angle with an arbitrary length of the sides; mark the top of the corner with point B (Fig. 22, c).
Neck line. From point B, put to the left horizontally a distance equal to 1/3 of the measurement of the semicircle of the neck plus 7 cm, and put point B1: BB1 = 18: 3 + 7 = 13 cm.
From point B, postpone the vertical downward distance equal to 1/3 of the neck semicircle measurement plus 3 cm, and put point B2: BB2 = 18: 3 + 3 = 9 cm.
Connect points B1 and B2 with an auxiliary line and divide it in half. From the point of division, lay down at a right angle 2.5 cm. Points B1, 2.5; Connect B2 with a smooth line - the neckline.
Yoke width. Lay aside from point B2 downward vertically and from point B1 to the left horizontally the width of the yoke is 6 cm. Connect both points b with a smooth line parallel to the neckline.
Shoulder line. From point (b on the horizontal) lay down 1.5 cm; connect dots 1.5; B1 in a straight line.
Note. To determine the place of the beginning of assemblies, put control marks on the shirt; to do this, set aside 8 cm from point 13 along the sewing line of the yoke on the back, and 12 cm along the line of sewing the yoke on the front.Also set aside along the pattern of the back yoke from point 1.5 - 8 cm, and along the line of the front yoke pattern - 12 cm and put control marks.

Drawing a cuff

Construct a rectangle ABVG (Fig. 22, d). The vertical lines of the rectangle are 4 cm:
AB = BG = 4 cm.
The horizontal lines are equal to the arm circumference plus 2 cm:
AB = VG = 32 + 2 = 34 cm.

Layout and cutting

Prepare separately the patterns of the front and back halves of the shirt, two pieces of the pattern of the front and back halves of the yokes (bottom and top) and the cuff.
Calculate the amount of fabric per frill. To do this, measure the bottom line of the front and back halves of the shirt pattern and double the resulting length. For example, if the width of the bottom of the front and back of the shirt pattern is 79 cm, then the entire bottom line of the shirt will be 79 x 2 = 158 cm.
The frill should be one and a half to two times larger than the bottom of the shirt. So the whole frill will be:
158x1.5 = 237 cm.
In practice, it is necessary, with a fabric width of 80 cm, to cut off three canvases 80x3 = 240 cm long, 22 cm long (20 cm frill width and 2 cm seam allowance). Then fold the fabric in half along the shared thread. Lay out the details of the pattern on the fabric with a 1 cm seam allowance, as shown in fig. 23, and cut out a narrow belt from the remnants of the fabric.

Sewing
Mark with thread the control marks on the shirt and on the yoke, lay the threads in the middle of the front and in the middle of the back of the shirt and yoke.
Stitch the shoulder cuts of the yoke. Put the yokes one on top of the other with the front sides inward so that
so that the shoulder seams line up. Sew along the neckline on
a distance of 1 cm from the edge. Turn the yoke to the front side. Sew along the edge of the neckline.
Sew the upper edge of the sleeve with a double seam.
Collect the sewing line of the yoke on a thread twice between the control marks, at a distance of 0.5 cm
from the edge and 0.5 cm from the laid thread.
Pin the lower yoke to the shirt from the inside out, aligning them along the shoulder seams, control marks, middle lines and evenly distributing the assemblies. Baste and then stitch the yoke to the shirt at a distance of 1 cm from the edge. Fold the upper yoke inside out along the cut line, covering the line, baste and stitch along the edge.
Stitch the sides of the shirt with a double seam.
Collect the sleeves in the same way as the sewing line of the yoke. Stitch the cuffs and baste them to the sleeves, placing the right side of the cuffs on the wrong side of the shirt. At the same time, align the side seam of the shirt with the seam of the cuff and flatten the gathers. Sew on cuffs 1 cm from the edge. Fold the other edge of the cuff, baste, covering the stitching, and stitch along the edge to the sleeve.
Stitch all parts of the frill along the edges. Hem the lower edge of the frill with a narrow hemstitch (see Fig. 19). Gather the upper cut of the frill in the same way as the sewing line of the yoke.

Fold the bottom of the shirt from the inside to the front side by 0.5 cm, sweep the frill to the bottom of the shirt (Fig. 24, a). Unscrew the frill with the right side on the front side of the shirt, sweep and stitch along the edge of the shirt (Fig. 24, b).
Stitch the belt and turn it to the right side.