Does it happen to you that the longer you knit, the more often it seems that you don’t know how to knit at all? You constantly meet something new that will make your skill clearer, more accurate, more precise. You study, study all the topics related to knitting, gradually touching (even if before that you carefully avoided or feared) topics related to the construction of patterns, basic foundations, etc. And I am always very grateful to people who share their knowledge and skills, often doing it absolutely free of charge. That is a gift!

Japanese shoulder knitting pattern

"Japanese shoulder" is the conventional name for the shoulder seam beveled back. On the Internet, information is scattered regarding the construction of a pattern of this very shoulder, but there is nothing super-tricky and complicated in it.

Easy to build from a basic pattern. On the last photo there is my pattern, or rather a pattern that I worked out on my own products. And the main trick in it is that the bevel of the shoulder from the shelf is transferred completely to the back. Thus, a double shoulder bevel is built on the back, there is no shoulder bevel on the shelf.

It should be noted here that the armhole on the shelf should expand slightly from the place where the shoulder bevel begins in the basic pattern. This moment is practically not paid attention to in Russian-speaking forums and people experience some difficulties during assembly, namely, the length of the shoulder along the back is geometrically greater than the length of the shoulder of the shelf, which leads to one sitting relative to the other. And as a result, a tightened shoulder seam, “wrinkles” on the back. This is not good.

The construction of the sleeve fold is no different, in my case, from the construction of the basic fold, the only nuance can only be that the width of the top of the fold should match the height of the bevel of the shoulder along the back, if the bevel is 8 cm, then the width of the top of the fold is 8 cm. This is very convenient during assembly - there are “docking” control points that are indicated on the drawing.

Why is such a "shoulder" often used in industry? Judging by what has been read, this design can significantly reduce the time spent on production, besides, products with such a shoulder “sit down” equally well on the figures. different types, despite the fact that the pattern is based on a conditionally typical figure. I don’t presume to assert the first, but I was convinced of the second in practice - on my husband’s stooped back with sloping shoulders and on my powerful shoulders and relatively straight back, the sweater “sat” perfectly.

Addition: so that the shoulder on the back does not shrink, you need edge loops knit in each row and additionally again in the places of decreases, if they are shaped.

Japanese shoulder knitting pattern

Some contour lines of the base pattern sometimes do not change after drawing constructive lines. These are the lines of the armholes of the back and front and the sleeves. Therefore for them neckline, shoulders, armholes, we recommend using ready-made calculation results.

How to calculate and knit the back

Determine the number of loops in the width of the armhole (segment AB) and divide them into 3 equal parts:

3 p.x6 cm = 18 p. (Pg. = 3 p.);
18 p. : 3 = 6 p.

If you get a remainder, then add it to the first third, counting from point B.

When knitting the first third of the loops (6 loops, including the edge), close in 2 steps:

at the beginning of the front row, close half the loops in a row (3 loops) and tie the row to the end.

Knitting turn, close at the beginning of the row also 3 loops. At the beginning of the next (front) row, fasten the second half of the loops in a row (3 loops) and, having connected the row, fasten the same number of loops at the beginning of the wrong row. With a low knitting density, the first third of the loops has to be closed in one step.

Decrease the second third (6 loops) one at the beginning and end of each front row: at the beginning of the row, remove the edge, knit the next loop with the front (regardless of the pattern) and stretch it through the edge. At the end of the same row, knit the edge and adjacent loops together from the wrong side.

Purl rows knit without decreases. Cut the last third (6 loops) in the same way as the second, but not in each front row, but after one row, i.e. after decreasing (in the front row), knit 3 rows without changes (purl, front, purl) and only then make another decrease.

Having knitted the lower parts of the armholes, continue knitting the back to the shoulders.

How to calculate and knit shoulders and neck backrests

The shape of the neck depends on the model. In our example, after drawing the construction lines (the “under the neck” strap), the new neck line is located 2 cm below the main one, the upper edge of the strap ends 1 cm above the base (this can be seen on the working pattern).

Measure the width of the new neck (8 cm) and shoulder (12 cm) and determine the number of loops in these segments:

3 p.x8 cm = 24 p. (half of the neck);
3 p.x 12 cm = 36 p. (shoulder).

Measure the new slope of the shoulder (it is slightly more than 3 cm) and count the number of edges in this value using the control sample, for example 7.

The number of edge shoulders in the slope always corresponds to the number of groups into which you need to divide the shoulder loops DM decreases. Therefore, in this variant there are 7 groups.

Now you need to find out how many loops are included in each of the groups. To do this, the shoulder loops should be divided by the number of groups (or edge loops). 36 p: 7 \u003d 5 p. (1 p. in the remainder).

Add the remainder to the 1st group, counting from the end of the shoulder (if the remainder is greater than one, distribute it 1 loop to each of the groups located at the end of the shoulder). So, on the shoulder you need to reduce 1 time 6 loops and 6 times 5 loops.

The number of edging in the height of the neck always corresponds to the number of groups into which the neck loops need to be divided for reduction.

Dividing the neck loops by the number of edge loops, determine the number of loops in each group. 24 p. : 7 \u003d 3 p. (3 p. in the remainder). Distribute the remainder by adding 1 loop to the first three groups, counting from the middle of the back. Therefore, on the neck of the back, you need to decrease 3 times 4 loops and 4 times 3 loops. Apply the results of the calculation to the pattern.

To do this, on the front side of the work, close 6 shoulder loops in a row and knit a row, leaving 4 neck loops untied at the end (put them on a strong cotton thread). Turn the knitting, remove the 1st loop without knitting, and knit the wrong side to the end.

At the beginning of the front row, close 5 loops in a row, and at the end of the same row, leave 4 more loose loops. Now there are 8 loose loops on the thread. Continue knitting according to the calculation until all shoulder loops are closed.

String the neck loops on a thread (they remain open). After that, cut off the working thread. Next, knit the left half of the back.

To do this, on the front side of the work, stepping back from the middle of the back 4 loops to the left (point A in the figure), attach a working thread to the knitting and knit the front row to the end.

It is more convenient to string the neck loops on the same thread on which the open loops of the right half are located.

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In order for the finished knitted the product is not bristling, it is necessary to perform shoulder slope. This is done in untied rows in 4-6 steps (depending on the height of the slope).

You will get the total number of shoulder loops by multiplying the shoulder width by the number of loops in 1 cm. Then divide the resulting number by 4 (6). This way you will find out how many loops you need to knit in each row. The left shoulder is not knitted in the front rows, the right - in the wrong side.

After completing all decreases, knit all loops in one row, capturing all turning loops together with the loops of the previous row so that there are no holes. Then close all shoulder loops, or knit another 3-4 rows in stocking stitch for an increase in.

You can also make a shoulder bevel in another way: gradually closing the groups of loops. In this case, the left shoulder will decrease at the beginning of the purl rows, and the right shoulder at the beginning of the facial ones.

Most often, during knitting, it is necessary to perform both the bevel of the shoulder and the design at the same time. So you will have to calculate in advance where the reductions begin earlier and when to start the other structural element.

On the back, the design of the neck and shoulder begins approximately at the same time, and on the front half it is necessary to start the design of the cutout earlier, and proceed to the bevel of the shoulder only on the 2nd or 3rd decrease.

Calculation example for knitting a shoulder bevel

Knit from the calculation:

shoulder width = 44 rows;

shoulder height = 16 rows.

Make 8 decreases through the row in every 2nd row:

4 times 6 loops and 4 times 5 loops.

How to tie a flat shoulder line

How to calculate and tie the bevel of the shoulder

This page is found by queries:

shoulder bevel with knitting needles
how to knit shoulder bevel
when should you knit shoulder bevel?
how to knit a shoulder

On the site * fashion knitting Pepper* already has several useful tips this author. And for beginners in knitting, we again today will talk about another method of calculation for the correct knitting of the armhole and sleeve hem. From whatever yarn and whatever number of knitting needles you knit, this technique gives fairly accurate results. Depending on the density of knitting, only the number of calculation digits changes: the looser the fabric, the fewer.

How to knit a set-in sleeve

Perhaps, set-in sleeves of all varieties found in sewing can be knitted on knitting needles: long or short; narrowed or, conversely, expanded downwards; straight (pipe-shaped) or in the form of a flashlight; with cuffs or lapels and many others.

Sleeves can be made not only from the bottom up from the wrist - the most common way, but also from the side, from the seam of the sleeve (transverse direction of knitting). You can knit a set-in sleeve from top to bottom (from a high point of the eye), but this is not very convenient. Let's get acquainted with knitting a set-in sleeve, narrowed down.

Set-in sleeve, knitted from the bottom up

Calculation and knitting of the sleeve to the okat(Fig. 173). The calculation is faster to do for half the sleeve. Count the number of loops in the narrowest and widest part of the sleeve:

rice. 173 Calculation for knitting sleeves to okat

3 p. x 10 cm = 30 p. (Pg = 3 p.);

3 p. x 18 cm = 54 p.

Determine the difference (in loops) between the wide and narrow part of the sleeve: 54 p. - 30 p. = 24 p.

Measure the distance from the beginning of the expansion on the sleeve to the beginning of the eye (34 cm) and divide this number by 24 (the difference in the loops).

34 cm: 24 = 1.4 cm.

Count the number of edging in 1.4 cm, in our example there are 3, which corresponds to 6 rows. Therefore, to expand the sleeves, you need to add 1 loop in every 6th row. Let's see how best to do it.

Cast on the required number of stitches on the needles (30 stitches x 2 = 60 stitches), knit 4 cm in garter stitch and go to the main pattern. Knit 2-4 rows and make the first addition; at the beginning of the front row, remove the hem and, having made a crochet (toward yourself), knit a row, at the end of it, before the hem, throw another yarn over. On the next purl row, knit the yarn overs behind the back wall.

Continue knitting, making similar additions on both sides of the sleeve in every 6th row, until there are 108 loops on the needle (54 p. x 2 = 108 p.).

In order not to stray in the count, each time mark with a colored thread or pin a pin to the row in which the addition was made. These marks will also come in handy when making the second sleeve, so do not remove them until you have knitted both sleeves.

Calculation of sleeves

Let's take a look at this calculation. Divide the number of loops in segment AB (Fig. 174) into 3 equal parts (54 p.: 3 = 18 p.). If there is a remainder, then attach it to the 1st part. Next, divide the loops of each part into groups.

Divide the loops of the 1st part into threes and twos, with the first half into threes, the second into twos (3 + 3 + 3 + 2 + 2 + 2 + 2 = 17), add the remainder to the first digit (3 + 1 = 4 ).

Divide the loops of the 2nd part into units (18 units); loops of the 3rd part - into triplets (3 + 3 + 3 + 3 + 3 + 3 = 18). If there is a remainder, add it to the first digit, counting from the high point of the circle (point O).

Apply the results of the calculation to the pattern.

Now you can start knitting an eyelet.

At the beginning of the front row of the 1st part (point B), fasten 4 loops in a row and tie the row to the end. Turn the knitting and fasten 4 loops at the beginning of the purl row. Then continue to cast off as calculated at the beginning of each row (knit, purl) until you cut 18 sts on both sides of the sleeve.

The first third of the loops of the 2nd part (18 p.: 3 \u003d 6 p.) Decrease 1 loop at the beginning and end of each front row. Cut the second third (6 loops) in the same way, but not in each front row, but after one. Decrease the last third (6 loops) in the same way as the first.

Fasten the loops of the 3rd part according to the calculation in exactly the same way as in the 1st part: either at the beginning of the front, then at the beginning of the back row. When 6 loops remain on the needle (of which 3 loops on the right side of the okta plus 3 loops on the left), close them in a row.

Practical Tips

* If the sleeves are made with a boucle pattern, then the loops added for expansion should be gradually included in the pattern. If the pattern contains elements of hosiery (for example, plaits or removed loops on wrong side), then knit the new loops on the front side of the work with the wrong ones, creating a continuation of the background from them, then the seam of the sleeve will be soft and neat.

* When knitting set-in narrow sleeves, a certain pattern is observed, which it is advisable to take into account. Noted: if the measure of the length of the arm is 52-60 cm (with normal fullness of the arms), then the additions on the sleeve have to be done in every 6th row. If, with the same fullness of the arms, the length measure is 48-51 cm (short arms), then a different rhythm of additions is needed - once in the 6th row, once in the 4th. With full and short arms (48-51 cm), the loops on the sleeve must be added in every 4th row. Knowing this, you can not do the calculation of additions according to the pattern, but knit the sleeves taking into account these practical conclusions.

* When knitting a sleeve to an okat, it can turn out like this: the number of loops due to additions corresponds to its widest part, and the length of the sleeve is insufficient (for example, you need to knit another 5-6 cm). In this case, continue to knit in a straight line until you reach the desired length, but note that the second sleeve must be done in the same way.

* Before starting knitting an okat, it is recommended to try on an unfinished sleeve: sweep it, put it on your hand and check if it is the length and width required. After making sure that the work is done correctly, continue knitting.

* It is important from the very beginning of training to pay Special attention on knitting density. It is necessary to carry out all parts with the same density; if this does not work out yet, then there is only one way out: the part must be dissolved and connected again.

Calculation and knitting of armholes in front

Determine the number of loops in the width of the armhole (segment AB) and divide this number into 4 equal parts. If there is a remainder, add it to the loops of the 1st part (to the one at the side seam).
Example: knitting density 3p. in 1 cm.
3 p. x 8 cm = 24 p.;

24 p. : 4 = 6 p.

Now divide the loops of each part, except for the 1st, into groups (if leftovers are obtained in the 2nd and 3rd parts, add them to the first groups):

divide the loops of the 2nd part into triples (3 + 3);

loops of the 3rd part into deuces (2 + 2 + 2);

loops of the 4th part into units (1 + 1 + 1 + 1 + 1 + 1).

Put the results of the calculation on the pattern.

Having connected the left shelf to the armhole, fasten 6 loops in a row at the beginning of the front row (1st part). Then knit a row, turn the knitting, knit a purl row and fasten 3 loops in a row at the beginning of the front row (the first group of loops of the 2nd part). Do all subsequent reductions of the 2nd and 3rd parts according to the calculation at the beginning of each front row.

Decrease the loops of the 4th part one at a time through one front row, i.e., having made a decrease at the beginning of the front row, knit it to the end, then knit the purl row, then the front one, another purl and only at the beginning of the next front row do another decrease.

Having completed the armhole, knit 5-6 rows in a straight line, and then add 2-3 times 1 loop at regular intervals (see + signs in Fig. 183). Sometimes the knitting pattern is broken from the added loops. In this case, it is more expedient not to make additions, but to knit armholes in a straight line.

Calculation for knitting curved lines of the neckline in front and shoulder

Any of the curves can be divided into separate segments that have a certain angle of inclination. This possibility is taken into account in the calculations for knitting curved lines.

The calculation is done as follows: the curved line is divided into different types of segments, the number of loops in the width of each is counted and the number of edge loops in its height is determined. For example, there are 6 loops in the width of the segment BV (2nd part), and 2 edge loops in height. Next, they use the calculation principle familiar to us: the number of loops is divided by the number of edge loops; the result is the number of decreasing loops in each group.

6 p. : 2 = 3 p.

Therefore, the loops of the curved line on the BV segment must be reduced in two steps, 3 loops each.

Another example. There are 6 loops in the width of the GD segment (4th part), and 12 edge loops in height - the segment is quite long, so you have to divide the number of edge loops by the number of loops to determine the length of the intervals between decreases.

12 edging: 6 p. = 2 edging (4 rows).

This means that the loops of the curved line on the GD segment must be reduced one at a time in every 4th row.

In this example, we met for the second time with the calculation for an almost vertical line (remember the line of the side seam of the fitted model), only the height of the side seam line was measured in centimeters, the intervals were determined and then their length was expressed by the number of selvedges.

Now let's make a calculation for knitting the remaining segments of the neck line: 12 loops are placed in segment AB (1st part). The segment is horizontal, so the loops in this section must be reduced in one go. In the segment VG (3rd part) there are 6 loops, its height corresponds to three edge loops.

6 p. : 3 = 2 p.

Therefore, the loops of the VG segment must be closed 3 times in 2 loops.

The vertical segment DE (5th part) is knitted without reduction.

Apply to the pattern the results of the calculations for knitting the neck (Fig. 185): 12 + 3 + 3 + 2 + 2 + 2 + 1 + 1 + 1 + + 1 + 1 + 1. Also put the calculation numbers for knitting the shoulders.

Knitting the neck and shoulder of the left shelf. Tie the shelf to the neck (see Fig. 184, point A). At the end of the front row, leave 12 loose loops and string them on an auxiliary strong thread.

Knitting turn, slip the 1st loop without knitting, and tie the row to the end. Continue working, not knitting the neck loops at the end of each front row. The shoulder loops must be fixed at the beginning of the front rows, after the armhole has been tied. Neck and shoulder right shelf knit similarly to the left, only decreases are made in the purl rows.

Practical Tips

* Follow the knitting rules: when doing the back and front, do not fasten the loops along the neckline, but string them on the auxiliary thread, i.e. leave open - they are much more convenient for subsequent processing of the neck than closed ones. In addition, if open loops are not needed, they can always be closed: it is enough to transfer the loops from the thread to the knitting needle and fasten them in one row.

* When knitting a model from thick yarn, it is recommended to perform the shoulders with partial knitting and after that, starting from front side details, knit 2 rows of facial loops with the main thread and 3-4 rows of auxiliary. Then the shoulders are ironed, the auxiliary thread and one woolen row are woven and after that the shoulders are connected with a loop-to-loop seam along the front or wrong side depending on the features of the pattern.

* If knitted item is put on over the head (sweater, pullover, T-shirt), then, knitting the front neck, it is necessary to divide the work in half and perform each half separately (like the neck of the back).

* Often on modern models to expand the shoulders, strips of thick knitwear are sewn to the armholes. Usually they are made in garter stitch (all rows are knit loops) or in 1x1 rib. It is more convenient to tie them separately, and then attach them to the model.

Calculation and knitting armhole back

Some contour lines of the base pattern sometimes do not change after drawing constructive lines. These are the lines of the armholes of the back and front and the sleeves. Therefore, to knit them, we recommend using ready-made calculation results. Determine the number of loops in the width of the armholes (segment AB) and divide them into 3 equal parts:

3 p. x 6 cm = 18 p. (Pg = 3 p.);

18 p. : 3 = 6 p.

If you get a remainder, then add it to the first third, counting from point B.

When knitting the first third of the loops (6 loops, including the edge), close in 2 steps: at the beginning of the front row, close half the loops in a row (3 loops) and tie the row to the end. Knitting turn, close at the beginning of the row also 3 loops. At the beginning of the next (front) row, fasten the second half of the loops in a row (3 loops) and, having connected the row, fasten the same number of loops at the beginning of the wrong row. With a low knitting density, the first third of the loops have to be closed in one go.

Cut the last third (6 loops) in the same way as the second, but not in each front row, but after one row, i.e. after decreasing (in the front row), knit 3 rows without changes (purl, front, purl) and only then make another decrease. Having knitted the lower parts of the armholes, continue knitting the back to the shoulders. If it is done with an elastic band, plaits and other "springy" patterns, then knit it without changes (in a straight line). In other cases, give the armholes a concave shape. To do this, it is enough to make additions of 1 loop along the armholes 2-3, performing them at regular intervals (see the arrangement of plus signs in Fig. 169).

Calculation and knitting of the shoulders and neck of the back

The shape of the neck depends on the model. In our example, after drawing the construction lines (the "under the neck" bar), the new neck line is located 2 cm below the main one, the upper edge of the bar ends 1 cm above the base (this can be seen on the working pattern)

Starting the calculation, connect the ends of the shoulders on the pattern with a straight line and lower the perpendiculars onto it, which determine the width of the new neckline. Next, do all the calculations on the right half of the pattern. Measure the width of the new neck (8 cm) and shoulder (12 cm) and determine the number of loops in these segments:

3 p. x 8 cm = 24 p. (half of the neck);

3 p. x 12 cm = 36 p. (shoulder).

Measure the new slope of the shoulder (it is slightly more than 3 cm) and count the number of edges in this value using the control sample, for example 7.

The number of edge loops in the slope of the shoulder always corresponds to the number of groups into which the shoulder loops need to be divided for decreases. Therefore, in this variant there are 7 groups.

Now you need to find out how many loops are included in each of the groups. To do this, the shoulder loops should be divided by the number of groups (or edge loops).

36 p.: 7 \u003d 5 p. (1 p. in the remainder).

Next, measure the height of the new neck (3 cm) and count the number of hem in this value - 7 (in our example, the height of the neck and shoulder slope coincided in size). The number of edging in the height of the neck always corresponds to the number of groups into which the neck loops need to be divided for reduction.

Dividing the neck loops by the number of edge loops, determine the number of loops in each group.

24. p.: 7 \u003d 3 p. (3 p. in the remainder).

Distribute the remainder by adding 1 loop to the first three groups, counting from the middle of the back. Therefore, on the neck of the back, you need to decrease 3 times 4 loops and 4 times 3 loops. Apply the calculation results to the pattern (Fig. 171).
The result of the calculation for reductions along the lines of the shoulders and neck is applied to the back pattern

Having knitted the back to the shoulders, finish knitting with the wrong side. Mark with colored thread the middle of the back and the width of the new neckline. Divide the knit in half. Transfer the left half to a spare knitting needle, and knit the right half according to the calculation just made. To do this, on the front side of the work, close 6 shoulder loops in a row and knit a row, leaving 4 neck loops untied at the end (put them on a strong cotton thread). Turn the knitting, remove the 1st loop without knitting, and knit the wrong side to the end. At the beginning of the front row, close 5 loops in a row, and at the end of the same row, leave 4 more loose loops. Now there are 8 loose loops on the thread. Continue knitting according to the calculation until all shoulder loops are closed. String the neck loops on a thread (they remain open). After that, cut off the working thread.

Next, knit the left half of the back. To do this, on the front side of the work, stepping back from the middle of the back 4 loops to the left (point A in Fig. 171), attach a working thread to the knitting and knit the front row to the end. Turn the work and at the beginning of the back row, make the 1st decrease on the shoulder (6 loops). Do all subsequent reductions in the same way as on the right half of the back, but only on the wrong side of the work. It is more convenient to string the neck loops on the same thread on which the open loops of the right half are located.

Practical Tips

* Before knitting back armholes, check again if your knitting corresponds to the specified width. Then attach the canvas to yourself and check if its length is sufficient for side seam.

* After you lower the armhole loops, pay special attention to the symmetry of the pattern: is it the same from the edges of the canvas.

* By fastening the loops, you can get a smooth line without “steps” (for example, on the shoulder), if you use the following technique: having closed the required number of loops at the beginning of the row, at the end of the next row, remove the edge on the right knitting needle without knitting (thread by loop). Turn the knitting, at the beginning of the row, remove, without knitting, the first 2 loops - edge and adjacent, stretch the adjacent to the edge and then fasten the required number of loops in the usual way (considering that one loop is already fixed). In each successive decrease, use this technique.

* In order to get a smooth line of armholes, you need to decrease the loops as follows: on the right armhole (meaning the right side of the front side of the fabric) at the end of the purl row, do not knit the hem, turn the work and the 1st loop, without knitting, stretch into the hem ; on the left armhole at the end of the front row, 2 the last loops (including the edge) knit together the front for the front walls, in the next row remove the edge, placing the thread before work.

* It is not recommended to string open loops on a thin cotton thread, since during further processing of parts, open loops seem to be "pulled" into the knitted fabric along with the thread. You should also not use woolen thread for this, especially the same color that you knit: open loops are difficult to distinguish from an auxiliary thread. It is best to use an inexpensive thread, such as darning in several additions, and if the loops are large, then you can string them on a soutache or thin lace. Before removing the thread, connect its ends, take the part in your other hand and pull the ends and part in opposite directions - this will align the loops and it will be more convenient to transfer them to the knitting needle.

* Often a coquette is knitted on the back. Its pattern, as a rule, differs sharply from the main pattern of the back. It can be regular rib or slipped rib, garter knit, or a waffle-like pattern. Depending on the structure of the pattern, the yoke may be wide and go beyond the pattern or, conversely, shrink. For example, if the main pattern of the back is hosiery, and the yoke is knitted with a 1x1 elastic band with the loops removed (see Fig. 63), then it will become narrower than the pattern if the number of loops does not change when changing patterns. In our example, having tied the back to the yoke, you need to add 1 loop at regular intervals in the last row before the yoke. How many additions should be made? The control sample will help answer this question: cast on 25 loops, knit 3-4 cm in stocking st and go to the 1x1 elastic band with the loop removed, without changing the number of loops after stocking. Now measure the width of the hosiery, then the ribs and determine how much hosiery wider gum; for example, 1.5 cm. Count how many loops fit in 1.5 cm; for example, 3 is the number of stitches that must be added so that the control sample does not narrow in the elastic. Now find out the interval between additions: 25 p.: 3 p. \u003d 8 p. Therefore, before the yoke, you need to add 1 loop in one row every 8 loops. It is better to make additions from broaches (see Fig. 112, a) so that new loops are less noticeable. In the next row, you can start the coquette pattern, it will certainly match the pattern.

* Sometimes knitting is shirred before the yoke. The assemblies are placed, retreating from the armholes by 4-6 cm. If the assembly is thick, then 2 loops are knitted together in one row and after that a yoke is started. To make the assemblies more beautiful, we recommend loosening the structure of the pattern by gradually changing the knitting needles: not reaching the yoke of 8-10 cm, you need to change the knitting needles, take a full size more. Having knitted 1.5 - 2 cm, replace the knitting needles, take another full size more, and so on every 1.5 - 2 cm. keep in mind that this is not exactly easy for beginner knitters.