Requirements for elegant clothing.
1 Aesthetic requirements
Elegant clothing is an absolute sign of elegance and high class. And here designers and artists go to great lengths to achieve the originality and uniqueness of every detail, every structural element of the product. They touch on such aspects as the texture and surface density of the fabric structure from exquisite thin silk to printed and dense jacquard. Every piece of weaving, every stitch of embroidery, color scheme, designs with geometric and floral patterns must correspond to the modern fashion trend, so that the clothes do not look everyday, but are unusual and exclusive.
2 Economic requirements
The concept of cost-effectiveness of a product is associated not only with material, but also with labor and monetary costs for its design, technological preparation of production and operation. Smart clothing is most often expensive clothing and its price directly depends on the cost of its production. Special expensive materials are developed for unique models, hand finishing of the product is used, using ancient Russian technologies, for example, Torzhok gold embroidery or bead embroidery, and often dresses can be sewn without using any sewing machines, which indicates the high price of a product that can be purchased at social status not every consumer.
3 Technological requirements
In sewing technology fashion products There are rules and techniques used to create such necessary fashion details as flounces, ruffles, frills, and other characteristic elements. Of course, this is also due to the nature of the fabric used, qualities such as drapability for light silk fabrics, rigidity for giving shape and emphasizing special design lines of clothing, fabric thickness, which can range from 0.1 mm for thin ones, such as nylon, silk, cashmilon to thick velvets 2-3 mm thick. Among the most characteristic features and properties of the fabric, it should be noted the possibility of creating various imaginative solutions and silhouettes, depending on the cut or layers of two or more multi-colored fabrics.
4 Hygiene requirements
In this case, hygienic requirements are reduced to zero, so elegant clothes are more subject to aesthetic requirements, due to their short service life. The main requirements for the product are minimizing electrification with the help of antistatic impregnations and minimal causticity of the upper fabric to ensure comfort.
5 Wear resistance
Wear resistance in elegant clothing is also practically not taken into account, with the exception of properties that can change the appearance. These include the appearance of pills after short wear and low separation of threads in the seams. Both properties directly depend on the structure of the fibers of the upper.
Principles for selecting materials for a product package.
The principles for selecting materials that make up the product package as a whole are the same, regardless of its purpose and range. The work is carried out in several stages.
The preliminary selection of materials must be carried out in such a way as to satisfy the main condition - the unity of requirements and properties of all materials that make up the product package.
The main goal of rational selection of materials in a package of outerwear products is to create product designs characterized by increased dimensional stability and stability. appearance during wearing. Therefore, it is very important here to take into account the elastic properties of covering and cushioning materials, the change in their linear dimensions during the WTO process, thickness, and in order to reduce the material consumption of garments, take into account their surface density.
When selecting finishing materials, it is necessary to take into account the aesthetic requirements for the product. At the first stage, it is necessary to determine the most important requirements for the selected materials and their quantitative characteristics. The number of the most important characteristics and their significance in each specific case may be different. For example, for lining fabrics this may be surface density and shrinkage; or surface density and hygienic characteristics, etc.
For cushioning materials, the main factors may be thickness, stiffness, color, shrinkage, or just stiffness and thickness; for some products, formability, stiffness, etc. may be important.
For fastening materials (sewing threads), linear density, elongation, strength, etc. may be most important.
The second stage of work is the characterization of the materials of the product package that meet the main requirements, the selection of product groups and specific items of materials. If it is possible to use materials that meet the basic requirements, but have different levels of consumer properties, it is necessary to provide an annotation of their characteristics and conduct a comparative analysis of the advantages and disadvantages of the performance properties of products made using these materials, as well as evaluate the features of their technological processing in the first two stages of work. When determining quality indicators, you can use the recommendations of GOST 4.3, 4.4, 4.5, 4.6, price lists, technical and educational literature, but it should be taken into account that these are indicators of fabric quality, and not criteria for selecting materials for a specific product. The establishment of the main and additional factors that determine the selection of materials for a specific product must be justified based on its characteristics.
Brief description of garments for household use.
Requirements proposed for clothing
Clothing ranges
1. What are assortments of clothing, its characteristics.
2. Properties of clothing and requirements for it.
3. Classes into which clothing is divided
4. Household clothes are the most varied look sewing products.
Literature:
Sharshov V.S. "Introduction to the specialty"
Collection of guest songs Moscow 1988
TSI - Pershina L.F.
TSHI - Savostitsky A.V.
V. Zaitsev “This many-sided world of fashion”
Each type of clothing has a variety depending on the complexity of the design and the complexity of processing, on the style determined by the shape, silhouette, cut of sleeves, collars and other details. For example: Jackets, coats, dresses, trousers, blouses, skirts, etc. - These are independent groups of clothing. Jackets made of varnish, raincoat fabric, drape, etc. divided by type of fabric. This means that materials also serve as signs.
Clothing ranges- These are clothes united into independent groups according to certain characteristics.
1. complexity of design
2. labor intensity of processing
4. purpose of clothing
5. materials, etc.
Clothing should create an artificial microclimate around the body, which provides optimal conditions for maintaining a constant body temperature, decorate a person, i.e. create a set of consumer and production properties.
Cloth- characterized by a set of consumer and production properties of a product that determine the degree of suitability for its intended use.
Consumer properties- determined by hygienic, operational and aesthetic requirements.
Production- determined by the efficiency, manufacturability and technicality of manufacturing products.
Hygienic requirements include – protection of the body from exposure unfavorable factors external environment, from mechanical damage, ensuring normal functioning of the body (i.e. skin respiration, gas exchange, sweating); maintaining thermal balance (stable surface temperature of the human body) for a naked person at a temperature of 16-18 0 C - cool, at a temperature of 14.5 0 C - cold, at 13.5 0 C - very cold. When putting on underwear, the temperature of the air under clothes increases by 0.9 0 C. The heat loss of a person dressed in underwear is reduced by 24-35 cal/hour, for a person dressed in a suit - 55-60 cal/hour. The zone of well-being in clothing will occur under such meteorological conditions in which the temperature corresponds to the heat generated by the body. With multi-layered clothing, the air temperature between layers is not the same. According to the Institute of Municipal Hygiene, in multi-layer clothing, air temperature differences between the undershirt and the outer shirt range from 0.3 to 1.4 0 C depending on the external air temperature, between the outer shirt and the suit from 2 to 7.4 0 C. Application Multi-layer clothing with air layers creates gradual changes in the temperature of the supply air from layer to layer, and therefore a more stable air temperature around the human body. Therefore, modern heat-protective clothing consists of several layers - underwear, a blouse or shirt, a suit and a winter coat, which has an additional heat-insulating layer. The number of layers of clothing reduces heat loss, the thermal conductivity of clothing in one layer is 10.5, in two layers - 6.58, in five, 3.65, in seven - 3.08 kcal / m 2 h deg (at the same outside air temperature). The speed of air movement has a great influence on cooling the human body. The temperature of a person’s skin at an air temperature of -10 0 C and an air speed of 6 m/sec decreases within the same limits as at an air temperature of -25 0 C and an air speed of up to 1 m/sec, therefore, in clothing for low temperature conditions and At higher air speeds, a wind-resistant gasket must be used. Heat transfer can also occur when moisture evaporates from the human body. The human body at rest at room temperature emits an average of 16 g/h of water vapor per 1 m2 of body surface. At a temperature of +29 0 C, clothing does not affect heat transfer by evaporation. The increase in heat transfer by evaporation begins for dressed people at a temperature of +29 0 C, and for undressed people at a temperature of +32 0 C.
With the next increase in temperature by 1 0 C, heat transfer increases by 15-19%. Moreover, from the moment the temperature of the skin and the surrounding air coincide, when heat is transferred mainly only by evaporation, in order to maintain a normal microclimate around the human body, clothing must have good breathability and hygroscopicity.
The breathability of clothing also helps to ventilate the underlayer of air and removes carbon dioxide, the content of which is more than 0.08% and causes poor health.
Of great importance are operational requirements that ensure that products comply with work or leisure conditions, and that clothing is durable and reliable in use.
Clothing must provide freedom of movement and breathing for a person. Ease of use is especially important for casual and work wear.
Clothing must provide resistance to the forces that act on the parts of the product and their connections during different human movements. those. have the necessary strength. Each product is subject to wear and tear under the influence of various factors (light weather, repeated washing, mechanical and physical-mechanical influences). Clothing must provide not only resistance to wear, but also maintain the shape of the parts obtained during processing. At the same time, clothing should be flexible and soft so as not to create inconvenience when a person moves.
Aesthetic requirements– this is the artistic design of clothing, the selection of materials according to color, pattern, processing, proportions of parts of clothing.
Manufacturing Requirements for clothing is saving material and reducing the labor intensity of processing products, which are the main factors that ensure a reduction in the cost of the product. Therefore, mass-produced products must be economical and technologically advanced.
Economical model characterized by a minimum area of product parts and minimal waste of material during cutting.
Manufacturability of products means reducing the labor intensity of processing due to the elimination of individual operations, simplifying processing methods, creating conditions for mechanization of technological processes and increasing labor productivity.
Technical requirements– these are requirements for the quality of tailoring of products (number of stitches per 1 cm, strength of seams, fit according to the pattern, etc.) and for the quality of the material. The manufacture of clothing, as well as the main indicators of the physical and mechanical properties of materials must meet the requirements of standards or technical specifications. Various materials including the fittings must match.
Sewing products include:
· household and industrial clothing, which makes up the largest part of the garment industry;
· uniform;
· household items;
· technical products and equipment.
Household clothing is the most diverse type of sewing products.
These include:
· underwear;
· light and outerwear;
· clothes for children.
Underwear - lingerie and corsetry (undershirt, briefs, long johns, grace, pajamas, rompers, diapers, etc.)
Light clothing is a dress, blouses, robes. Hygroscopicity must be at least 7% (apron too)
Outerwear is a complex multi-layer product. (coat, suits, jacket, jacket, shorts, blouse, trousers, etc.)
Children's clothing - the main factors are the physiology, psychology of the child and local climatic conditions. Take into account the phenomenon of acceleration of children - rapid growth, accelerated development (physiological and intellectual). Requirements for fabrics are determined by the lifestyle of children. When decorating fabrics, it is necessary to take into account the correspondence of the color and pattern of the fabrics to the age of the children. Based on scientific data, children's clothing is modeled in separate groups, and for each age group For children, not only their physique characteristics are taken into account, but also their lifestyle, occupation, and interests (sets).
Household items include bed and table linen. (sheets, duvet covers, pillowcases, tablecloths, napkins, towels, etc.)
Technical products and equipment include canvas buckets, bags, car covers, bags, backpacks, tents, etc.
Currently, great importance is given to consumer qualities: elasticity, wrinkle resistance, water- and dirt-repellent properties, the ability to retain shape, no need to iron - these are the requirements that the buyer places on the material and with which he compares his understanding of quality. Mass-produced clothing available to everyone. Individuality is manifested in the choice and combination of individual clothing components.
The grandiose success of Dior testifies to the dominant role of a fashion creator gifted with the subtle intellect of the times and the spirit of the times, for at the origins of fashion is still the tailor-fashion designer with his rich imagination. He draws his inspiration wherever he can.
Jeans - as an element of “anti-fashion”, appeared more than a century ago as work clothes, and in the 60s of our century, they turned into an indispensable attribute of our life. Now surrounded by an aura of romance, the history of jeans is actually more than prosaic. For many decades, they were cheap, everyday clothing for working people - miners, farmers, fishermen and cowboys. To put it simply modern language- special clothing. The founder and a kind of “author” of jeans was the American merchant Levi Strauss, the founder of the now world-famous company, which today owns almost a third of the products in this area. In the middle of the 19th century, Levi Strauss was just a merchant mediocre. He went to the western United States, which was experiencing a boom in its development, with a significant shipment of tarpaulin. The settlers needed it for tents and awnings. Perhaps leather pants, which were imported in a timely manner, were not the main clothing of cowboys, perhaps there is another reason - there are several legends about the origin of jeans. Levi Strauss used all his tarpaulin not to cut trousers that imitated cowboy ones. Jeans began to be sewn not only from tarpaulin but also from cotton fabric. This is how jeans wandered - practical and comfortable clothing for work. At the end of the 60s, it was as if they were born for the second time. After an unprecedented wave of youth protest against the norms of bourgeois morality that swept the cities Western Europe and American student circles - the jeans in which the rebels were dressed unwittingly became the center of attention among young people and found thousands, and soon millions of fans.
Jeans, like other attributes of “anti-fashion”, were put into circulation by resourceful businessmen. True, from now on it was difficult to find in them signs of the trousers worn by farmers and cowboys. Jeans have been replaced by denim style.
Clothes are a set of objects that cover and clothe the body (Big Explanatory Dictionary of the Russian Language). Suit - complete outerwear. If clothing serves a person to protect him from climatic influences, then a suit reflects the external appearance of a person, reveals his inner content, and is a psychological, social, age and historical characteristic of him.
Shoulder clothing, which you will study in 7th grade, originates from primitive cloaks - skins. Over the millennia, these robes were transformed, for example, into men's and women's suits Greeks They were sheets of fabric that were not sewn together, but were skillfully draped over a human figure. The costume consisted of two parts: a lower shirt - a chiton - and an upper cape - a himation. This cape was thrown over the left shoulder onto the back and chest. The longer and wider himation was called “pe-plos” - a large piece of woolen material. The size of the peplos varied depending on the social status and taste of the person (Fig. 53).
Rice. 53. Costumes of the Greeks
Residents' clothing Ancient Egypt On the contrary, it was mainly of a tight-fitting silhouette (Fig. 54).
Rice. 54. Clothing of the inhabitants of Ancient Egypt
The first information about the clothing of the times Ancient Rus' belong to the period between the VIII-XII centuries. Women of that time wore a long linen shirt-shirt with a wide straight cut, belted along the hips and embroidered at the edges (Fig. 55).
Rice. 55. Clothing from the times of Ancient Rus'
In the XV-XVI centuries. nightgowns and trousers appeared, which for a long time were belonging to the toilet only of privileged segments of the population.
Silhouette in clothes
The first thing that a quick glance cast at a person walking by captures is his silhouette. And clothing “draws”, creates the silhouette. It can fit the figure or be loose and flowy. The silhouette in clothing is the characteristic contour outline of a figure. The silhouette determines its main overall proportions. Changes in fashion are reflected primarily in the silhouette. In Figure 56 you can see how the silhouette of a woman’s dress changed during the 20th century.
Rice. 56. Women's clothing of the 20th century.
At certain intervals, the lines of the silhouette are repeated, come back and become fashionable.
Fashion changes, so does the silhouette. If you want to look modern, you first need to find your silhouette that matches the fashion. With all the diversity modern clothes There are four silhouettes that have been constantly in fashion over the past decades: straight, semi-fitted, fitted and trapezoidal. To more accurately characterize the silhouette, it is compared with geometric shapes.
The straight silhouette suits almost all body types. Cloth straight silhouette fits into a rectangle shape.
The semi-fitted silhouette subtly accentuates your figure. In this case, clothes can be short or longer (triangle shape).
The fitted silhouette is distinguished by an extended shoulder line, hem and a narrowed waist. A fitted silhouette is possible with a narrow or loose bodice, widened or narrowed skirt.
The trapezoid silhouette characterizes the extension from the shoulder line or armhole. The expansion may be minor or quite large. Clothes of this silhouette look good on a slender figure.
Concept of style
What is style? Style is a stable, specifically defined language of an era that affirms its culture, the concept of beauty, and its attitude to the world around it. Style is a way of dressing (fashion comes and goes, but style remains). The nature of clothing depends on its style. According to the style decision, all the variety of clothing forms can be combined into three main groups.
The classic (business, elegant) style includes things that are little subject to the vagaries of fashion. This is a jacket, cardigan (an elongated jacket without a collar), blazer ( women's jacket, modeled after a classic-style men's jacket), skirts with a pleat in the front, a shirt-cut dress, and a vest. From time to time, fashion makes small changes to them: a slightly narrower or wider shoulder, lapel, tighter or looser product along the waistline.
Cloth sporty style convenient, comfortable. It is suitable for both work and active recreation. The assortment includes jackets, blouses, skirts of various lengths and designs, overalls, bib overalls, denim clothing.
The romantic (or fantasy) style is represented by elegant, extravagant clothing that emphasizes the femininity and charm of its owner. This style is characterized by various types of decoration: flounces, ruffles, frills, lace, embroidery. Clothes are subtly complemented with jewelry and accessories. The fabrics are airy, shiny, velvety, flowing. Elements of national (folklore) costume can also be used here.
A girl's wardrobe can consist of clothes different styles, but the choice must correspond to its purpose.
Girl in a dress with a neckline and shiny embroidery educational institution or looks ridiculous at work. A devotee of sports style, denim clothing in the theater will look the same. At the same time, a strict, elegant suit will not fit into the cheerful atmosphere of a disco, and casual clothing will not fit into a festive atmosphere. A person’s clothing and behavior characterize his internal culture, way of thinking, and interests.
Clothing requirements
In 6th grade you learned that when creating clothes, you should proceed from certain requirements for them. The main ones are hygienic, operational, aesthetic and economic. Let's remember what they mean.
Hygienic requirements are that clothing must ensure the normal functioning of the body and protect the human body from adverse climatic influences.
To do this, it must have heat-protective properties, gas and air permeability, hygroscopicity, proportionality to the human body, and be easy to take off and put on.
Ensuring certain hygienic requirements depends on the properties of the material from which the clothing is made, its shape and design. Yes, summer women's dress for relaxation it should be soft, hygroscopic, breathable and easy to wash.
The performance requirements for clothing are that the clothing must be resistant to abrasion, creasing, tearing, dry cleaning, etc.
The wear resistance and reliability of the product depend on the cut, design of the product, fabric properties, quality of processing, and wearing conditions.
The aesthetic requirements for clothing are that it should be beautiful and modern. When creating clothes, you need to take into account the age, body type and appearance of the person.
Economic requirements are that clothing should be inexpensive and accessible. The profitability of the model is largely determined by the design, since the fabric consumption depends on the design, and the cost of the material mainly determines the cost of the product.
Types and characteristics of shoulder products
Garments that are held on the shoulders are called shoulder garments.
Dress - women's clothing, consisting of a bodice and a skirt combined into one. The dress can be cut at the waist and one-piece; with or without collar, sleeves; with front, back, side and without clasp; various lengths, with different types of finishing.
A sundress is a type of dress with a large neckline, but without sleeves, sometimes with straps, usually without a collar.
Robe - outerwear, covering the torso and legs, with a slit or fastener from top to bottom or with wraparound hems, with or without sleeves and collar, with or without a belt.
Blouse - women's clothing covering top part torso and partly thighs. A blouse can be with or without sleeves, with or without a clasp, with or without a collar.
Vest - clothing with sleeveless armholes, of various lengths, with or without a fastener.
New concepts
Silhouette, style, shoulder products.
Security questions
1. List and describe various types silhouettes. 2. What is the difference between a classic style of clothing and a sports one? 3. What types shoulder products do you know? 4. What are the requirements for clothing? 5. What are the economic requirements for clothing?
The requirements for clothing depend on its purpose, operating conditions, age and gender of the consumer.
Functional requirements.
The utilitarian (practical) function of clothing is to protect a person from adverse atmospheric influences and provide optimal temperature conditions.
Clothes should decorate a person and hide his physical flaws. Clothing can serve as a sign of sadness (mourning) and a sign of joy (wedding). Clothing performs various social, ritual, and professional functions. In accordance with this, the different meanings of the functions of clothing are determined. For example, for formal wear the main function is aesthetic, comfort to wear and durability for everyday wear.
Ergonomic requirements.
Ergonomic requirements for clothing are related to the physiological, anthropometric and other characteristics of a person. Clothing should be comfortable and create a feeling of comfort, it should not tire and cause a decrease in performance.
Anthropometric requirements.
Clothing must match the height, size, and plumpness of the buyer. Clothes should be easy to take off, put on, fasten, iron, change sizes, etc. Of great importance in clothing is the degree of freedom of the product to fit the figure; it is ensured by the corresponding amounts of increases or allowances.
The minimum allowance for a coat is 5-6 cm, for a dress, jacket, jacket - 2.5 cm.
Anthropometric requirements are also met through the use of textile materials that, through deformation and elongation, can compensate for changes in body size over time. The greater the elongation of textile materials, the smaller the loose fitting allowances should be.
Hygienic requirements
Hygienic requirements are imposed on clothing to ensure the normal functioning of the human body. Clothing should provide a person with freedom of movement, not wrinkle, and be easy to put on and take off.
Hygienic requirements include: heat protection, hygroscopicity, vapor and air permeability, water resistance.
Thermal insulation is the ability of clothing to retain heat. Thermal protection is influenced by the design, cut, and style. To increase heat protection, brushed fabrics and special cushioning insulating materials are used.
Hygroscopicity - the ability of clothing to absorb moisture to ensure the absorption of sweat and its release into the external environment. It is determined by the hygroscopicity of the fabric from which the clothes are made.
Breathability. Clothing should be well ventilated. Carbon dioxide accumulates in the underwear space, which negatively affects a person’s well-being and performance.
Underwear and dress products should have the greatest breathability. Smaller ones - coats, raincoats, suits.
Vapor permeability. The thicker and denser the fabric, the less vapor permeability. The best vapor permeability is found in clothing made from cotton and viscose fabrics.
Weight garment. The weight of a set of winter clothes is sometimes 1/10 of a person’s body weight. This causes additional energy consumption when worn, so it is necessary to use lightweight basic, auxiliary and insulating materials.
Aesthetic requirements
Aesthetic requirements are that clothes should be comfortable and beautiful. It corresponded to fashion, so that the color, style and overall style of clothing created a harmonious appearance.
Clothes must match modern style and fashion.
Style is a historically established stable system of means and techniques of artistic expression. Features of the Gothic, Romanesque, Baroque, and Rococo styles are reflected in shape, size, color, and proportions. Style reflects the character of the era, its artistic taste and determines changes in the shape of household items and clothing.
Operational Requirements
During wear, clothing experiences stress and undergoes various deformations. The service life of the product depends on the conditions of its wear, the properties of the fabric, its quality and type of processing.
Reliability of clothing in operation is an important consumer property. During operation, quality indicators should not change sharply over a certain period of time (service life of clothing).
The reliability of clothing is associated with the partial or complete loss or change in the utilitarian and aesthetic properties of the garment. The reliability of clothing is a complex property consisting of such elements as reliability, maintainability, durability, etc.
The durability of a product depends on its resistance to physical wear and tear. Physical wear is the visible destruction of materials, changes in size, color, loss of water-resistant properties, etc. If a product no longer meets fashion or consumers’ requirements for shape, color, or texture of the material have changed, this means that the clothing has become obsolete.
