It is rare to find a woman who is completely satisfied with her appearance. And since the face attracts more glances, the desire to improve this part of the head arises more often. But before resorting to plastic surgery, it is necessary to try correction with makeup.
Types of face ovals
The shape or oval of the face is the ratio of the width of the forehead to the chin area and the proportion between the length and width of the face. There are six main types of face shapes:
- oval;
- rectangular;
- round;
- square;
- triangular;
- diamond-shaped.
To find out your face shape, you need to conditionally divide the front of the head into three zones, upper, middle and lower. A proportional oval outline is considered to be the ideal. In all other cases, one of the zones will be more pronounced.
What is face contour correction. Basic techniques
Correcting a face means eliminating imperfections by making changes to the sizes of conditional zones. Several techniques are used to correct disproportion:
- make-up in the technique of chiaroscuro;
- the right haircut or hairstyle;
- suitable glasses or jewelry.
Now we will focus on a well-made makeup. This will require tonal means of three basic shades, better than one manufacturer, similar consistencies and textures. The main tone will be a tone that is in perfect harmony with the natural skin color, and to help it a darker and lighter shade.
When choosing, it must be remembered that all tonal means have a base close to pink or yellow. You need to choose funds from one palette.
It is important to remember that dark shades make you look smaller, and light shades create an accent, emphasizing. In professional language, means that reduce various parts of the face are called shading, and means for highlighting certain areas are highlighters.
Corrective makeup, like any makeup, starts with applying moisturizers. After absorption, a foundation is applied in a natural shade, and a darker tone is applied to visually eliminate imperfections. The borders between the different colors must be carefully shaded to make the facial features appear more natural and attractive. If the contouring is done incorrectly, it will seem that the face has been drawn using a ruler.
Professional make-up involves the use of blush to give the face a fresh and radiant complexion. For a natural look, use a single-tone blush with a natural blush. They are applied to the protruding parts of the cheekbones, emphasizing the dignity of the skin.
Required tools
The ideal makeup companions are brushes and sponges. A properly selected brush should have a dense and dense bristle, pointed at the end. The tip is not typed a large number of cream of a darker shade and applied to the skin.
Sponges come in a variety of shapes and materials. Natural cream absorbs less and in dry form is similar to pumice, and foam rubber, which has small pores, is no less convenient to use. To apply the foundation, you need a soft and slightly moisturized one. Application is done with patting touches.
Oval face correction
This type rarely needs any form changes. Sometimes only the oval visually seems a little more elongated. Then you will need to apply a small amount of the darkening agent on upper part forehead and chin area.
Round face correction
With a round face, the task of competent correction is to visually lengthen, stretch the contours. You will need to work on shading on the cheekbones, temples and sides of the oval. The highlighter is applied on the chin, under the eyes and in the center of the forehead, while the blush is applied to the cheekbone line.
Correction of a rectangular face
Contours rectangular face need smoothing, what is used for dark palette in the sharp corners of the forehead and on the chin. The bridge of the nose, the central part of the forehead and the area under the eyes are highlighted. Blush is applied to the apples of the cheeks and cheekbones.
Correction of a square face
With this type of face, it is required to visually narrow the oval by rounding the cheekbones. Shading is applied to the entire lateral contour of the face, and the same parts are highlighted as in the rectangular one. Blush is applied in the form of a triangle to the cheekbones and carefully shaded.
Triangular face correction
A distinctive feature of such a face is narrow chin and a wide forehead. To give it correct shape, you need to darken the corners of the forehead and cheekbones from the top of the ears to the center of the cheeks. Light tone is applied to the center of the forehead, under the eyes and the contours of the jaw. The blush applied to the apples of the cheeks gives a shine.
Diamond face correction
On such a face, it is necessary to correct the contours of the protruding cheekbones by applying a tonal agent of a darker shade to them. The highlighter is applied to the central part and corners of the forehead, chin and jaw contours, and the area under the eyes.
A few secrets of perfect correction
- First of all, lightening shades are applied, and then shading.
- Highlighter and shading should not be applied in close proximity to each other.
- The transitions between shades must be done smoothly and accurately.
- Foundation should be applied in small, slightly noticeable portions.
- For problem skin, mother-of-pearl should be applied carefully so as not to make the imperfections more pronounced.
- It is not recommended to apply pearl under the eyes.
- The ideal effect is achieved only through professionally executed shading.
The final stage of the face contour correction
Face makeup is fixed with powder. It must be applied correctly and in moderation. It should be applied with a special brush to avoid the appearance of an undesirable mask impression. The first thinnest layer of powder is applied immediately after applying foundation and corrective agents, firmly soldering into the base. The final, slightly noticeable layer serves to fix the result.
0 April 4, 2012, 17:04
Any makeup is a work of art.
There is not a single woman who would be completely satisfied with her appearance, even ideal beauties will find something to complain about when looking in the mirror. Not the shape of the nose, not the shape of the eyes, not the oval of the face ...
So today I will tell you, dear gossips, how they disguise problem skin professionals, as well as how to correctly correct the shape of the face and visually give it perfect outlines.
Perhaps for some of you this will help solve one of the important problems or be useful in the future.
Primer
A primer is a make-up base. It is designed to make the makeup as stable as possible. The application of the foundation will be more subtle and natural. Primers smooth the surface of the face and are generally irreplaceable. Any primer is designed to visually minimize pores, hide the lines of fine wrinkles, and matte.
The base can be colorless or colored, matte or, conversely, moisturize the skin, neutralize its shade, lighten the skin tone, or, conversely, give it a more tanned look. The foundation fits better on it, but some bases can be used independently without tone - in the absence of pronounced skin defects.
An example of color bases:
A primer or base is not a foundation. Confusion has arisen over the original name on English language... In English, both base and foundation mean "base, foundation, base". But if Foundation is written on the tube, it means that this is a tonal agent, and if Primer is written, then this is a base.
In short, if there are two words in a foreign name at once, then what kind of product will be the last to say. For example: Guerlain - Meteorites Perles Light Diffusing Perfecting Primer - before us is a PRIMER, a make-up base. And if the name is: Guerlain - Lingerie de Peau Invisible Skin-Fusion Foundation - respectively, we have a foundation.
About correctors (concealers and the right choice colors)
Unfortunately, a cream called "Photoshop" has not yet appeared on the market so that we can sculpt any face we want. On the other hand, if such a cream existed, then they would walk the streets the same people... Nature created us completely different, and what we have is worth appreciating and embellishing. And for this, the cosmetic companies, oh, how they try!
But there are still magic means - correctors.
They are different types: base correctors (primers, applied to the whole face, described above), cream correctors (applied to problem areas of the skin), correctors in pencils, and so on. I will not advise any particular brand, such products can be found in any store with a wide selection of cosmetics.
Concealers come in different colors and each color works with a specific problem. Allergies, pigmentation, overburden, thin skin or capillaries close to the surface, even bruises - all this can be hidden with the help of correctors.
Now about the colors.
White color corrector is used to lighten dark areas of the skin, or to mask freckles. However, it must be used with caution, and it is suitable only for very light skin, or for sculpting the shape of the face to emphasize the bulges.
Violet pink color corrector (lavender) - copes with yellowness and greenery. Used for skin types with an unhealthy yellow tint. Also suitable for concealing bruises that have already passed (for example, after plastic surgery, when the bruise already has a dark yellow spot)
Purple(with a blue tint) - hides large dark spots or unsuccessful self-tanning.
Green corrector - neutralizes redness. For rashes, allergies, acne scars, any redness, a greenish corrector will cope.
Pink corrector. It is used for any skin tone. It can cover dark (blue) circles under the eyes, it masks veins, well covers wrinkles and age spots.
It should also be remembered that for artificial lighting, you should choose a foundation with a pink undertone.
Apricot corrector - (with more red) - refreshes aging skin, as well as skin without blush with a grayish undertone. Evens out olive (painful) skin tone, gives it vitality when used under foundation.
Orange corrector (bright yellow) - masks very noticeable bruises or circles under the eyes, even very dark ones, found in swarthy girls.
Yellow- masks purple: bruises under the eyes, circles, bruises. Gives the skin a warm tone, if needed. Remember: if you need to look brilliant when sunlight and natural light, it is worth choosing tonal means of warm tones, golden or yellowish.
Beige the corrector helps to revitalize the skin tone, evens out the color. Or it covers up the residual effects after some problems on the skin. When disguising the bruise, first covered the right shade and then camouflaged in beige.
Blue Concealer - neutralizes strong tan.
How to use the corrector?
Naturally out of necessity, if there really is a SERIOUS problem that needs to be hidden.
The main thing is to shade it well. In general, the main thing in makeup is to shade EVERYTHING well.
It is applied with a finger or a brush, as it is convenient for anyone, depending on the structure of the product. On or under the foundation - also as convenient for anyone.
About concealers.
Concealers are designed to clean up dark circles under the eyes, they may not be able to cope with other more serious skin imperfections.
To mask bruising under the eyes or vascular mesh, it is better to use concealers in yellowish tones.
Important: the concealer should be much lighter shade your skin or foundation.
They are also used to highlight certain areas of the skin, as some concealers contain reflective particles.
How to apply?
Apply the concealer with gentle strokes and blend thoroughly so that no margins are visible. As a rule, for foundation (if you use it).
If the concealer is used as a concealer or as a corrector for some skin imperfections, then it should be applied with patting movements on the foundation, lightly dusting this area on top, and you will be happy.
Correction according to the shape of the face.
Facial correction with any corrective means convenient for you (for example, creamy or powdery correctors of light and dark shades) always takes place according to the classic scheme:
Although experimenting with cosmetics is always interesting. You can also use the following:
And the main thing is to shade !!!
However, in order to achieve the perfect result, the shape of the face must be taken into account. Simple rules will tell you exactly how best to correct your particular face in order to emphasize the advantages and eliminate the shortcomings.
Correction round face
consists in visually lengthening it and changing the contour of the cheeks. To do this, darken the side parts of the face (temples, cheeks and jaw) with blush. natural color with a brownish tint or any other corrector (do not forget that the transition between light and dark colors should be smooth, therefore, any cosmetics should be carefully shaded), making the color most saturated at the chin, this will help to give the face an oval shape. The main blush is applied to the cheekbones in the form of a triangle that extends to the corners of the mouth.
Highlights the forehead, under the eyes and chin to draw attention to the center of the face.
If you are a lucky owner oval face, then you can safely experiment with different types makeup without fear of making mistakes. Correct the shape oval face not required. It can be emphasized by slightly lightening, for example, with a highlighter under the eyes and the highest points - the nose, forehead and chin.
Correction triangular face should help visually make the upper part narrow, and the lower part widen. The temporal and tuberous parts of the forehead are darkened. The line of the lower jaw is highlighted with powder. Highlights the forehead, under the eyes and chin to draw attention to the center of the face. Blush is applied over the cheekbones on the protruding parts, in the form of a diamond.
Square face softening of the features is required, namely the jaw, so that the contours are gentle. In a dark tone, you need to darken the area near the hairline at the corners of the temples and at the corners of the jaw. Light tone is applied to the middle of the forehead, under the eyes and the tip of the chin. Blush is applied in a triangle, pulling it towards the temples.
Traits diamond-shaped face softened by darkening the side of the face (cheeks) to minimize width. Highlights the forehead, under the eyes and chin to draw attention to the center of the face. Two colors are chosen for the blush. Apply to the protruding part of the cheekbone dark color, under it - light.
To shorten the length elongated or elongated face, it is necessary to darken the chin and forehead near the hairline. And to make the face visually wider, on the sides the face is lightened with powder, and blush in the form of an oval is applied to the protruding part of the cheeks.
This entire array of information may seem difficult to understand, but this is only at first glance. This is a general cheat sheet. You should act like this:
We determined our face shape, remembered how to correct it correctly. Further:
1. Moisturized face
2. Apply base or corrector (if there are serious problems). For example, you can choose a color base according to your skin problem and do without the concealer as a separate product.
3. Foundation
4. Concealer
5. Powder
6. Continued makeup (a cheat sheet about blush, highlighters and bronzers will be in the next post, and then about shadows)
This whole cake should be applied to the face in case there are serious defects on the skin, or some event is coming, for example, a photo shoot or a holiday, when you just need to look perfect.
Every day, of course, no one will do SO plastering.
And it is still worth getting a couple of special brushes, separately for each product. They provide the finest application so you don't feel like you have applied foundation with a spatula.
This information is provided in full for you, so that it is easier for you to decide which tool you really need. Choose the most suitable combination for yourself and always be beautiful!
Photos Miracle
The face is yours business card... And makeup reflects your attitude to fashion and your self-image. When makeup matches a woman’s inner self and mood, it makes her more attractive: she looks good and feels great.
In modern makeup, every detail of the face should be drawn. Makeup is only considered competent when it is "full".
Even if you want no cosmetics to be seen on your face (the so-called "clean face" make-up), you still need a thin layer of foundation, your eyes should be decorated with shadows, mascara and a contour pencil, and at least a little lip lipstick and blush.
The color saturation depends on the function of the makeup. For example, for natural makeup cosmetics should be muted, calm tones, lie in a haze, half-tones, and be almost invisible to the eyes.
According to the classical canons, competent makeup is makeup with an emphasis on one detail of the face. As a rule, either the eyes or the lips are highlighted. It is believed that if the lips are brightly painted, then it is no longer necessary to emphasize the eyes, and, conversely, with brightly highlighted eyes, the lips should be more or less neutral.
V real life faces of strict proportions are extremely rare. The variety of forms is conventionally reduced to seven main types:
1) oval;
2) round;
3) square;
4) triangular;
5) trapezoidal;
6) rectangular;
7) diamond-shaped.
Often in one person there are elements of two or even several basic forms. In this case, the person is referred to the form, the characteristic features of which prevail.
Round face- the horizontal and vertical dimensions of the face approach each other. The areas of the temples, lower jaw and chin are rounded, soft in outline.
Square face- has developed angles of the lower jaw, rectangular outlines of the upper and lower parts of the face.
Triangular face- broad in the forehead and cheekbones and tapering to the chin.
Trapezoidal face- characterized by pronounced angles of the lower jaw. The upper part of the face is much narrower than the lower one.
Rectangular face- is distinguished by a sharp predominance of vertical dimensions over horizontal ones. This face is characterized by a high forehead and an elongated chin.
Diamond-shaped face- has wide cheekbones, tapering in the upper and lower parts of the face.
Using makeup wisely, we can always optically eliminate something or, on the contrary, add something to our face. This is achieved using light or, respectively, dark products. decorative cosmetics(foundation, powder, eye shadow, natural concealers) that are applied to certain areas of the face. At the same time, there is a certain rule: what should recede, as it were, is taken into depth with the help of dark colors, and what needs to be pushed forward is lightened.
Round face.
The purpose of the correction is to stretch the face, visually reduce the volume of the cheeks. For this:
Darken the lateral surfaces of the face (from the temples down to the lower jaw) with a foundation or powder slightly darker than the natural complexion;
- apply blush on the cheekbones in the form of a triangle, elongated to the corners of the mouth, the color is neutral, dark.
Square face.
The aim of the correction is to soften the sharp contours of the lower jaw and forehead. For this:
Darken the protruding corners of the lower jaw and "round" the hairline;
- apply blush on the cheekbones in the form of a triangle, elongated towards the temples, the color is neutral, maybe bright, lively.
Triangular face.
The purpose of the correction is to visually balance the wide upper part of the face with the narrow lower one. For this:
Darken the temples and the side of the cheekbones;
- if a sharp chin stands out, powder it with a darker powder;
- to lighten the sub-zygomatic cavities and lateral surfaces of the lower jaw, apply blush on the front surface of the cheeks in the form of a diamond, the color is light, delicate.
Trapezoidal face.
The purpose of the correction is to reduce the volume of the wider lower part of the face, try to expand the upper part. For this:
Darken the lateral surface of the lower jaw;
- to highlight the temporal zone;
- apply blush in the form of a rectangle, elongated and shaded to the temples.
Rectangular face.
The purpose of the correction is to visually expand and shorten the oval of the face. For this:
Darken the forehead along the hairline;
- darken the lower jaw;
- highlight the lateral surface of the face;
- apply blush in the form of an oval and shade horizontally, the color is light, delicate.
Diamond-shaped face.
The purpose of the correction is to visually soften the angular outlines of the face. For this:
Darken the convex parts of the cheekbones;
- to lighten the subzygomatic cavities and temporal areas;
- apply blush in the shape of a triangle on the front of the cheekbones, color - neutral, dark.
- Facial correction rules
- Lip shape correction
- Correction of the shape of the eyes
- Correction of skin imperfections
Basic rules for face correction
Correction is a way of visually modeling a face using cosmetics: usually dark and light colors... These colors play the role of "light" and "shadow": when applying dark shades, the area of application visually decreases or narrows. When using light ones, on the contrary, it increases and becomes slightly more convex. Correction of imperfections and skin imperfections is done in shades to match.
It is advisable to use dark products only in the evening, when the shadows "soften" a little - there is a risk that such a correction will be too noticeable on the skin in the daylight.
If it is nevertheless necessary to sculpt the face, it is advisable to use dry products. For example, a tan blush or light bronzers. And, of course, it is important to make sure that the shading is very thorough and soft. Use a small fluffy natural bristle brush for this purpose.
If you have oily or oily skin, use only dry products when correcting cheekbones and facial contours with dark shades.
Light products can be used cream and liquid. But they must be matched to the type of skin. Moreover, they must be persistent. After application, it is advisable to fix the result with powder.
It is important to make sure that the correction does not go beyond the hairline (especially with cheekbone correction and darkening areas on the forehead). Otherwise, it will be very noticeable, since it will be distributed in spots, and it will not work to shade it.
How to make a face contour correction?
The sequence of actions for correcting the shape of the face
© site
If you create a bright evening make-up for important event where you will be photographed, it is advisable to make corrections with a creamy texture and apply them under the foundation
In this case, you can not be afraid of the intensity of the color. The tone will provide a subtle transition from light to shadow and smooth edges of the shading. Visually, the correction will be present, but the intensity will go away, and on the camera, on the contrary, it will appear.
For the usual evening makeup correction is done on the foundation to avoid sharp transitions and blemishes
Gently blend the product with a tone-on-tone brush or sponge. The result should look like a light haze and should in no way be noticeable.
V day makeup let's say a light bronzer or blush applied with a fluffy brush
In daylight, inaccuracies in the application of funds are very clearly visible, therefore it is better to avoid dark correction.
The correction scheme that is right for you is always individual, since it directly depends on the shape of the face (we discussed this issue in detail). But still, there are general rules that are relevant for everyone.
Facial correction rules
- On the Internet you can find a large number of schemes and recommendations for correction, but they all boil down to the fact that "sharp corners" always need to be rounded. If you have a too sharp chin, too high hairline at the corners of the forehead or too wide cheekbones, then it is advisable to darken these areas. Thus, the visual perception of the face will be reduced only to its light areas, the shape will become oval, and the contours of the face will be softer, the cheekbones will narrow.
- If your face is round or wide, or there are other reasons why you want to "stretch" it vertically, then apply a concealer a couple of tones lighter than your skin on the T-zone, forehead and chin. The problem will be solved!
- One of the favorite topics of beauty bloggers is still "cheekbones like Kim Kardashian." This correction scheme is based on the sharp contrast of light and shadow. This effect can be achieved by lightening the area above the cheekbone and darkening the area below it. Above the cheekbone, the light corrector is applied in the form of a triangle, which starts under the eyes, goes to the temple and ends at the wings of the nose. The dark concealer is applied in the “gap” under the cheekbone and is shaded very carefully upwards.
Correction of the shape of the nose with cosmetics
With the help of a sculpting tool, you can visually shorten, narrow, or, conversely, lengthen and widen the nose:
Do you want to "lower" your snub nose a little? Proceed as shown in the diagram. To, on the contrary, slightly visually "lift" the tip of the nose, draw and carefully blend a dark strip at the base of the cartilage of the nose, separating it 1/4 or 1/3 from the tip of the nose. © site
Lip shape correction
Lip correction should be done with a product to match the skin tone or a few shades lighter.
- The tool to match the skin tone can correct the uneven shape, shorten too "elongated" lips.
- With a product several shades lighter - to enlarge the lips (apply the product to the "hollow" above the lip, going to the upper edges, as well as to the "hollow" under the lip.
© site
Correction of skin imperfections
To correct problem areas on the skin (redness, pimples), use a tone corrector to match your skin color. Apply tone cream, and then dotted the corrector on the problem areas. Blend with a soft brush and, after drying, also spot with powder.
Wrinkles, especially deep ones, as well as nasolabial folds, are corrected with a couple of tones lighter than skin... Apply it to a crease or wrinkle along its entire length. In this case, you need to use a persistent product that is quickly absorbed. Do not forget to fix it with transparent powder.
For more information on how to do face correction using color correctors, read the material. And watch the video below to learn how to use the dedicated correction palette.
We will start by familiarizing ourselves with the materials and methods in which face reshaping is performed.
Materials used to correct the shape of the face.
1 Highlighters are light products that are used to brighten certain areas of the face. Highlighters are:
- bold highlighters - all correctors and tonal means of light shades;
- dry highlighters - light loose and compact powder, white powder, light shadows, pearl pearlescent shadows and powders.
2 Blackening products - products used to darken the desired areas of the face. Share:
- oily darkening agents - any foundation and corrector for 1-2 or more positions darker than the main tone;
- dry darkening agents - any powders, shadows that are darker than the main color by 1-2 or more tones, as well as special dry correctors.
Types of face modeling
- Monochrome Modeling - One color corrector is used, either dark or light. The effect of depth is achieved by layer-by-layer application.
- Polychrome modeling - used from two or more color correctors. In this type of modeling, the smooth transition from color to color is important. We start with lighter ones and finish with darker correctors.
- Cross Modeling - use dry highlighters and bold dimmers or vice versa, bold highlighters and dry dims.
- Duplicate modeling - first we work with bold highlighters and darkening agents, and then duplicate them with dry highlighters and darkeners.
Face correction
In order to make it easier to navigate further, let's get acquainted with the diagram:
1 - the middle of the forehead
2-3 - Temporal arches
4 - The middle of the chin
5-6 - Jaw arches
AB - Vertical face size
CD - Horizontal face size
Based on the proportions, the ratio of horizontal and vertical dimensions, the shape of the arcs, each face can be attributed to some type. A perfectly balanced face is AB = 3/3, CD = 2/3. The ideal is oval shape faces, therefore, with the help of makeup, we bring each face closer to an oval.
Square face:
The vertical and horizontal dimensions are as close as possible, the temporal and jaw arches are deployed.
- simple correction: everything that goes beyond the oval is darkened, i.e. use darker tonal means or a dry corrector for areas that go beyond the oval shape;
- more complex correction: the area around the eyes is lightened, the jawbone is darkened in the shape of a triangle, the blush is also adjusted in a triangular shape. This is done in order to draw the eye to the upper part of the face, and to make the lower part inconspicuous. In no case should a round blush be applied.
Round face:
The vertical and horizontal dimensions are approximated, as in the case of a square face, but the jaw and frontal arches are curtailed.
- simple correction: correction is performed in the same way as for a square face;
- more complex correction: we highlight the area around the eyes, darken the jaw arches almost from the cheekbones, apply blush vertically along the upper part of the zygomatic bone.
Triangular face shape:
The ratio of vertical and horizontal dimensions can be different; the frontal arches are deployed, the jaw arches are folded.
- simple correction: the frontal arches darken to an oval shape;
- more complex correction: the temporal arches darken, the jawbone is lightened in the form of a droplet, the blush is applied to the highest points of the cheekbones.
Trapezoidal face shape:
The frontal arches are collapsed, and the jaw arches are deployed. This face shape is most often found in overweight people and aged people.
- simple correction: darken the jaw arch, bringing the shape closer to the oval;
- more complex correction: lighten the upper part of the face, darken the jawbone before reaching the middle of the chin, apply blush above the darkening.
Elongated (elongated) face shape:
The vertical dimensions prevail over the horizontal ones, the jaw and zygomatic arches are either folded or unfolded.
- simple correction: darkens part of the forehead and part of the chin, creating an ideal ratio of horizontal and vertical sizes;
- more complex correction: the central part of the face is lightened, and we apply blush horizontally, and not only on the cheeks, but also on the nose; darken part of the chin and part of the forehead, this will visually stretch the face horizontally.
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