Hardware manicure, the process of which is shown in the photo, is the most in a fast way treat your nails. In addition, it often gives the best results, especially if performed by a professional craftsman. Learning to do it correctly is quite difficult, and therefore you need to devote enough time to it. Otherwise, you can seriously damage the nail or cause microtrauma to the skin.
Devices
The manicure machines themselves are very different. According to the scope of application, they can be salon (professional) or home. It will be much easier for a non-professional master to carry out hardware manicure and teach it on a home device, as shown in the video. This is due to the fact that professional devices have more power and large set functions. Thus, there is a high probability of choosing the wrong one and, as a result, severely damaging the nail.
Also, devices may differ in area of use. They can be intended for manicure, pedicure, or be universal. At the same time, in universal devices, the quality of processing, as well as the scope of application, depend on correct selection cutters, which will be discussed below.
The power range of home devices is quite narrow. However, it is quite enough to carry out high-quality comprehensive treatment of both fingernails, toenails and artificial ones. Of course, subject to the selection of the right cutters, as mentioned above. The main basis of how to properly do a hardware manicure is to carefully select the cutters, as shown in the video.
Milling cutters
The master class on proper hardware manicure, presented in the video, involves the use of at least five different cutters for comprehensive processing. These include cutters for correcting the length of the free edge, adjusting its shape and polishing the entire plate. There are also cutters for removing cuticles, corns and calluses on the feet and treating the skin of pre-nail ridges. If the master works with extended nails, then many other attachments may be required.
You can evaluate how effective a hardware manicure is by looking at the photos before and after treatment. If it is performed by a competent master, the result is better than with a classic manicure. However, not all masters are fluent in this technique, and therefore often combine this type of manicure with a classic or European one.
General rules
A proper hardware manicure, the master class for which is shown in the video, is performed strictly on dry fingernails. Otherwise, you risk not only ruining the cutters, but also harming both your nails and the skin of your hands. Also, such processing will not be effective enough.
Before or after using cutters, they must be disinfected. Although such a manicure does not involve injury, there is still a risk of infection, although very low. Therefore, the device must undergo antibacterial treatment, especially if you do not use it alone.
The cutter must be held strictly parallel to the nail. Although its operating principle is such that delamination of the nail is practically impossible, you should still move it in the direction opposite to the direction of rotation of the cutter. As the hardware manicure lessons presented in the video show, this method of work is the safest for plates. You also need to carefully ensure that the processing is carried out with the side of the cutter, and not its tip, as this will cause scratches on the nail.
Modern women are increasingly turning to professional manicurists to create perfect nails! There are quite a lot of methods used by specialists, and one of the most popular is hardware manicure, which came to us from Europe.
What is a hardware manicure?
Working the old fashioned way, preparing the nail plates for manicure, the master trims the cuticle with special cutting tools, then polishes the nail itself making it perfect. The hardware method eliminates rough trimming of overgrown skin with tools. Preparatory stage is performed by treating skin growths and nail plates using a special apparatus, which is equipped with different attachments, depending on the type of activity.
This technique is recognized as being as gentle as possible compared to trimming technology. Thanks to it, it is possible to maintain the same structure of the nails, they remain strong and healthy. Caring for your nails in this way is allowed no more than twice a month.
Which manicure is better: hardware, edged or combined?
Hardware treatment of the nail and cuticle is considered better than trimming - a primitive, gradually becoming outdated technique, especially when it comes to problematic, deformed nails.
The procedure is performed much faster and the risk of injury is minimal. After all, when working with an attachment, the master does not cut, but cleans the desired area of the keratinized skin area. Grinding and sharpening of the nail plate is performed under a certain pressure, evenly.
Many experts consider the combined method to be much better than the hardware and trimming method, since this technique includes both technologies simultaneously. A specialist studying the structural features of nails alternates between instrumental and hardware methods of correction, giving even the most problematic nails unimaginable beauty.
Pros and cons
The technology has many advantages:
- removing dead skin, the healthy area is not affected;
- cuts and other injuries are excluded;
- eliminates infection;
- the cuticle after such treatment grows back more slowly than, for example, when cut with scissors;
- The processing technology eliminates preliminary steaming of the fingertips; everything is done in a natural state. A careful, gentle attitude preserves the healthy structure of the nail plates; after treatment they do not burst or peel;
- ideal for problem nails and dry skin around them;
- ideal for pedicure, a variety of attachments allows you to remove dead skin from the heels and clean off calluses;
- thanks to different grinding speeds, ideal beautiful shapes even extended nails.
In addition, this technology takes little time, and the result is amazing. Beautiful manicure lasts a long time, the nails remain elastic, healthy, the plate does not deplete. However, despite large number There are pros and cons, like any technology: - the technique requires a certain skill, novice professionals often cause injuries, leaving furrows after work;
- the inexperience of the specialist leads to an unpleasant sensation, clients feel vibration of the device, some complain of a slight burning sensation;
- it is difficult to get an absolutely clean manicure, such as with instrumentation;
- doing work on a steamed finger, the skin will tear;
- The technique is not suitable for brittle, thin nails.
There are not so many disadvantages, the main thing is to learn how to use the device and feel it. Therefore, when going to the salon, you should find out about the professionalism of the specialist, and then trust him with your fingers!
What is included in a professional hardware manicure kit?
Many manufacturers specialize in the production of electrical devices with which this procedure is performed. Professional kits may differ slightly in component parts, but in general they have almost the same thing:
- main device (handle) with cord (battery);
- nozzles
Main packaging – plastic, wooden oval (rectangular) container or leather case, equipped with holders for cutters (nozzles). Additionally, there are sticks that are used to remove cuticles, baths, UV lamps, and fans for drying.
Set of attachments for hardware manicure
Depending on the cost of the device and the manufacturer’s ideas, the electric “machine” may have several attachments, usually about nine of them:
- sapphire discs, different diameters, different abrasiveness;
- diamond, ceramic cutters, polishers, grinders;
- cones, bur – round, cylindrical, sapphire, needle-shaped;
- nozzles (curved, cone-shaped, spherical) for removing cuticles.
To clean the attachments, the set includes a special brush.
Processing tools for hardware manicure
Each use of the kit ends with cleaning it. The nozzles are washed with water, and adhered skin particles are removed with brass brushes. Ultrasonic cleaning is considered a good cleaning option. Afterwards, disinfection and sterilization of used parts is necessary. Disinfection is carried out by wiping objects with antiseptic solutions and sterilizing them in special cabinets (using Glasperlene sterilizers and dry-heat cabinets).
Step-by-step implementation of hardware manicure
Before starting the procedure, the first thing the master does is clean the nail plates of varnish. No steaming or water treatments can be performed. Hands must be completely dry. Next, the wizard performs several basic manipulations:
- treats the cuticle with a softening substance, lifting it with a wooden stick and pushing it to the base;
- after the skin has dried, the main treatment begins;
- give correct form nails;
- tidy up the side surfaces of the skin (clean off the stratum corneum, grind it) using medium abrasive discs and a cylindrical attachment;
- Using a ball-shaped nozzle, remove the desired part of the cuticle at an angle of 45°;
- Before treatment, the thin, depleted cuticle is first lifted using a cone-shaped nozzle;
- Calluses are removed from the palms and fingers and cleaned with abrasive discs;
- polish the nails using a silicone trapezoidal cutter and a nap attachment.
Additionally, if necessary, clean the nails using tools.
Is it possible to get hepatitis from a hardware manicure?
By performing a hardware manicure, the risk of contracting infectious pathologies, including hepatitis, is significantly reduced. However, if a non-professional is working, who is negligent in handling the instruments, the device itself, then yes, it is quite possible to become infected not only with hepatitis (B, C), but also with AIDS, HIV, papillomavirus, and fungal diseases.
Popular devices for home use
Increasingly, women prefer home manicure, buying inexpensive devices. The best in this regard are devices from well-known manufacturers:
- Gezatone 130D;
- Rowenta MP7018;
- POLARIS PSR 0902;
- Scholl Velvet Smooth;
- Scarlett SC-MS95005.
Each of them is a professional kit, which even an inexperienced beginner can learn to work with if desired. The machines differ in power, operating speed, number, type of attachments, cutters. Milling cutters of various diameters and abrasiveness will be the ideal tool for creating different forms.
Some cutters allow you to quickly and safely remove old varnish. The majority of the machines are suitable for performing pedicures at home. With their help, corns and calluses are easily removed.
The cost of the kits starts to vary from 1,500 rubles.
Contraindications
- swollen, swollen, inflamed cuticle;
- there are scratches and wounds on the skin;
- the nail plate is affected by a fungal infection;
- thin cuticle;
- microvessels pass almost on the surface of the cuticle.
The appearance of various types of neoplasms in the area of the nail plates, their severe deformation as a result of early injuries.
Review
Tatyana, 37 years old
“I ordered a professional set for home manicure Scarlett SC-MS95005 via the Internet for 1,700 rubles. I was immediately pleased with the ease of use and the absence of much noise during operation. Beautiful design, small size, plastic case.
The set is suitable for manicure and pedicure. It has a bath for hydromassage, drying (mini-fan) and 11 nozzles. Works autonomously and from the network. Two speed modes, maximum speed – 9000.Tourmaline tips, easy to use. I am not satisfied with the quality of work of some attachments, and I consider some to be superfluous. I also think that the downside is that the dryer is not suitable for drying gel polishes. Overall, the machine works excellently, with its help I can quickly and safely do my own manicure without leaving home.”
Girls are increasingly thinking about home practice in the field of hardware manicure. Some - for the sake of providing services, others - to save money spent on nail salons. In any case, training for beginning craftsmen begins with preparatory instructions.
Hardware manicure is one of the methods of nail care that is rapidly gaining popularity, and that’s what it’s all about more women give preference. It was invented not so long ago in Germany by beauty salon masters. It is based on a method of caring for nail plates without the use of cutting tools (or with partial use).
Operating principle
The essence this method consists of removing the cuticle with a milling cutter. Afterwards, using various types of attachments, the nail plate is thoroughly polished, and the skin along the contour of the nail is removed. Hardware manicure is classified as a class of gentle nail procedures, which are recommended to be done no more than once every 2 weeks.
It is strictly forbidden to operate the device on wet skin. since a cutter operating at high speed will begin to tear the skin steamed in hot water instead of cleaning it.
A technician with little experience may not be able to control the pressure and, pressing the attachment too hard, will scratch the nail and leave grooves on the surface. The same problem applies to beginners who decide to purchase a similar device for home nail treatment. In both cases, you should be extremely careful and calmly gain experience.
Hardware manicure – good choice when the cuticle grows too quickly or the nail plate becomes layered, coupled with irregularities and ribs.
The impact of such a procedure is hardly noticeable on neglected nails and is not at all related to the quality of the attachments. In such cases, manicurists use combined solutions, first treating the nail plates with a machine, and then completing the process with cutting devices.
Requirements for the treated surface
For owners or future owners of the device, you need to know what the surface of the nail should be during treatment.
The hardware procedure should be carried out exclusively on dry nails. Even very well wiped nails should no longer be treated with a tool after washing your hands, as they absorb moisture very quickly. When working due to moisture, such nails will begin to heat up, which will cause, at best, unpleasant sensations or lead to damage to the nail.
If the device has a system for manually adjusting the number of revolutions, a beginner should not set the speed too high or too low. In the first case, you can accidentally damage the nail, in the second, it can lead to heating of the plate, even if it is perfectly dry. An acceptable option would be no more than 10,000 rpm.
Benefits of hardware manicure
Once you pay a large sum and purchase the device, you can forever forget about expensive hand care products and tools. Working with nails becomes safe, eliminates the risk of injury, makes the procedure painless and allows you to work with both the cuticle and the nail at the same time. Also, with timely sterilization of attachments, the chance of infection after treatment disappears. 
Hardware manicure (training for beginners helps to learn the basics of safe nail adjustments) provides the opportunity to process even very fragile and thin nail plates without risk and takes less time than working with hand tools, helping to quickly change the length and shape of the nail.
All these advantages, despite the presence of a list of some contraindications, allow you to treat problem nails with this method.
Disadvantages of hardware manicure
The hardware method has its drawbacks, such as mandatory training, even if a beginner is going to carry out the procedures at home. After all, for efficient and trouble-free work it is necessary to correctly select both the nozzle and its speed of rotation to process each individual area.
The lack of professionalism of the master can turn initially useful procedure into painful horror, especially when it comes to treating nails for a person with a thin nail plate. It is best for such people to contact professionals with extensive experience in this field.
Contraindications to the procedure
It is not permissible to perform a hardware manicure on the nails of a woman suffering from one of the following ailments:
Preparing for a manicure
Hardware manicure starts in another 30 minutes. before starting to work on your nails. The client's hands should be washed well with soap and then allowed time to dry completely.
During the training period, beginners need to learn - Before starting the procedure, all elements involved in it must be disinfected. This applies to manicure tools, hardware attachments, skin and nails on the hands of the client and the master. Antiseptic solutions or regular medical alcohol are good for this. 
After this, the nails are degreased. If there is old varnish, it is removed with a special solution (preferably not containing acetone compounds). A softening agent is applied to the cuticle of the nail, after which it remains to wait for its effect.
Hardware cuticle processing technique: step-by-step instructions for beginners
When performing a hardware procedure, you should first adhere to the following list of rules:
Cutters for hardware manicure: types
The hardware type of manicure is replete with a variety of cutters, which are not limited only to the difference in abrasiveness. Quite important parameters are the limitation of operating revolutions per minute and differences in tip diameter.
Depending on their purpose, all nozzles are divided into three large groups:
- Attachments for working with the shape of the nail plate and for filing it.
- Attachments for grinding the surface of the nail and cutting it.
- Attachments for final polishing work to make the surface shiny.
Also, these groups have their own divisions of attachments with other features.
What cutters are needed for hardware manicure:
Ceramic tips
Hardware manicure (training for beginners involves starting practice with a ceramic type of attachment) involves removing the old coating, for which the most common attachment among nail service salon workers is ideal. It is called “corn” because it has a characteristic appearance.
Its purpose is high-quality and painless removal of gel polish (there is a version of the attachment for left-handers).
Also on the list of popular attachments is the “carrot”, which has received recognition for the quality of nail polishing.
The main purpose of ceramic attachments is to treat the nail and the skin around it.
Such attachments have an inherent hardness indicator, which is marked with special colors on the rim under the main working surface.
Correspondence of color to cutter rigidity indicator:
The first type from the list is well suited for soft treatment of the skin along the contour of the nail plate. The second one will serve for removing pterygium and gently removing gel polish. The latter is designed to remove keratinized areas of the skin or calluses. Such attachments should be stored carefully so that they are not subject to harmful mechanical influences.
Diamond bits
Diamond bits are an important tool, divided into many types according to the shape of the product and its abrasiveness. Typically they consist of a steel rod coated with a diamond coating (natural or artificial).
Just as in the case of ceramic cutters, abrasiveness can be determined by the color of the rim:
- Yellow– the smallest crumb, no more than 15 microns.
- Red color – small crumbs, from 30 to 50 microns.
- Blue – medium crumb, from 90 to 125 microns.
- Green – slightly coarser than average, from 125 to 181 microns.
- Black – large grains, within 300 microns.
- Two black marks are very large grains, around 500 µm.
Rare are diamond attachments with white or three black marks, the so-called grinder cutters, which simultaneously serve as a polishing tool. Scarce. Designed to remove heavily keratinized skin areas and thick layers of gel. 
The successful outcome when cutting off gel polish depends on abrasiveness. Diamond cutters with green or red notches, made in Germany, are in great demand. It is believed that they are of the highest quality in execution. But there is an analogue made in Russia.
Metal nozzles
Metal cutters, unlike diamond ones, have a lower price, although they are used for the same purposes. Usually made from alloys of carbide and tungsten - medical steel. Among the features of steel cutters, one can note the patterns (notches) on the working surface. They can be straight, oblique or spiral. 
Such attachments are well suited for removing dead skin, and not with dust, as usual, but with shavings. It is noteworthy that among the models of steel cutters there is a version made in a “corn” shape, which is used for removing old gel polish.
Silicone tips
Silicone nozzles belong to the group of polishing nozzles suitable for both artificial and natural nails. Adding shine nail plate can be achieved precisely by using these attachments. 
They have divisions according to abrasiveness, which is determined by touch: from almost smooth to rough options for grinding. They are made of silicone interspersed with abrasive particles.
Toolbox Processing
Tools and attachments should be cleaned after each use. The cutters are washed with water, and at the same time, particles of skin are removed from them using a brass brush. 
Also good option is cleaning in an ultrasonic sterilizer. It works on the principle of purification by vibration, which causes the liquid to vibrate. Microbubbles formed as a result of such exposure explode, clearing dirt from hard-to-reach places on the instrument.
Instruments are treated with antiseptic solutions or sterilized in special cabinets, for example, in a dry heater.
All instruments made of solid materials are placed in it, after which they are heat treated in an environment with a temperature of 180 ᵒ C for 30 minutes, then removed and placed in sterile containers with a sealed lid.
Criteria for choosing devices for manicure
Hardware manicure (training for novice specialists sometimes takes place on a self-purchased device) is closely related to understanding the criteria for choosing a device.
The first one is power. For personal use, you don’t need a very powerful milling cutter, so you should pay attention to models with a stated power of at least 35, but not more than 50 W. However, if the specialists are visited by at least 5 clients every day, then you should pay attention to models with a power of 100 watts or more to reduce the procedure time. 
The second is the number of revolutions. Models with up to 20,000 rpm. suitable for home use. If the number of clients is more than 5 people per day, you should choose a device operating at 35,000 rpm. and more. In cases of professional manicure, the machine must have a speed of 45,000 rpm.
The next criterion will be the cutters provided included in the package. It is very good if the device is equipped with a starting list of basic attachments.
In the best case, you need to include among them:
The devices also differ in the method of clamping the nozzle. There are 3 types in total:
- manual;
- semi-automatic;
- auto.
Inexpensive models for home use use a manual clamp that secures the working part of the tool when tightening the washer. A more expensive device will be equipped with a semi-automatic method of fixing the nozzle when the lever is tightened. And the most expensive devices come with an automatic clamping system that locks the nozzle immediately after its installation.
Working tools for performing hardware manicure are equipped with a brushed or brushless motor. The difference is that a brushed motor is designed to last for several hundred hours, while a brushless motor lasts for several thousand.
A machine with a brushless motor will cost more, but it is quieter than its counterpart with a brushed motor, and is distinguished by the quality and durability of its design. Devices with a commutator motor, despite their shortcomings, can handle a home manicure quite well. 
The last selection criterion is related to the fine dust released during operation of the machine. To reduce its amount, you can choose a model of the device with a vacuum cleaner built into the countertop, equipped with a retractable tray for quickly cleaning the filter from accumulated sawdust. If a vacuum cleaner is not provided at all, you can purchase it separately complete with a stand, dust collector and filter.
Review of popular devices for home use
Hardware manicure (training for beginners is also accompanied by the choice of the first device) cannot be done efficiently without a convenient tool. When choosing, they take into account in which room it will be produced and how the device will be used.
There is no need to spend money on expensive equipment if you have to do a manicure on yourself at home.
| Nametion | Production | Description | Advantages | Flaws | Average cost in Russia |
| RUNAIL PM-25000 | Russia (Assembled in China) | Inexpensive model ideal for home use. |
|
| 4500 rub. |
| TNL MP-68 | South Korea | Rich functionality for little money. Set includes 4 cutters. |
|
| 4300 rub. |
| IRISK JD-400 | USA (Assembled in China) | Bidirectional rotation mechanism with good power for modest money. |
|
| 5500 rub. |
| SCARLET MS95006 | China | At all budget option for the simplest nail work. |
| Few Suitable for serious manipulations with the nail plate. | 700 rub. |
| VITEK VT-2201 VT | China | Cheap set for home care for nails. |
|
| 2000 rub. |
| STRONG 90N 102 | South Korea | Good average quality device price segment, suitable for all types of manicure work. |
| The kit does not include attachments. | 17,000 rub. |
What videos with master classes will help even a beginner get the perfect manicure?
To learn how to do a hardware manicure correctly, you should start with simple lessons, which can be obtained from video content with training for beginners. For example, Nadezhda Primak provides comprehensive information about hardware manicure on her official channel or during broadcasts on Periscope.
Olga Zyablova and Tatyana Shestakova show how to properly apply varnish and use artistic techniques in manicure. On the Kasya Nail Club channel, the presenter, Evgenia Isay, shows in close-up and talks in detail about working with a manicure machine, and about adjusting the result with cutting tools.
Article format: Svetlana Ovsyanikova
Video on the topic: hardware manicure, training for beginners
Video lesson: hardware manicure for beginners:
Training in hardware manicure: covering under the cuticle:
Do you dream of beautiful and healthy nails? A hardware manicure will help keep your hands in perfect condition - simple, effective and safe. Today, this is the most progressive method of treating the nail plate and adjacent areas, which almost eliminates the possibility of injury.
Manipulations are carried out using a special device - a milling cutter with several interchangeable attachments. It allows you to quickly and easily: get rid of the old decorative coating, give the desired shape to the edge of the nail plate, remove the cuticle, pterygium and deeply clean the lateral sinuses, sand the nail and, if necessary, level its surface before applying a new layer of varnish.
Which is better – edged or hardware manicure:
We are constantly looking for the most gentle ways to get our hands in order. The aggressive trimmed manicure was replaced by the European one, with its careful processing of the cuticle without removing it. However, this technology is not suitable for everyone.
Hardware manicure is the next step towards the development of the nail industry. Its undoubted advantages:
- The cutter carefully removes only dead skin particles without damaging the cuticle, as often happens when trimming with tweezers. As a result, there is no danger of wounds with further possibility of infection. Not only thin, but also denser cuticles are effectively removed, leaving the nail hole smooth and neat.
- To perform a classic manicure with high quality, hands are first steamed in a bath, which provokes the spread of fungal diseases. Hardware treatment is performed on dry skin, so it is much more hygienic.
- After gentle removal with a cutter, the cuticle grows longer and does not become rough, as with a trimmed manicure.
- Problematic nails are treated delicately: brittle, flaking, uneven, damaged by improper extensions. As a result, any gel polish then fits and lasts much better on them.
- The skin around the nails looks healthier and more well-groomed. You can also use a cutter to remove calluses from your fingers if they have formed from work.
- The procedure is easy to carry out at home. It is enough to complete the video training by watching the relevant lessons and step by step photos from professionals, and then practice a little to achieve tangible success. The machine for hardware manicure is so easy to use that high-quality nail treatment will not be a problem even for beginners.
- All necessary operations are performed in 30–50 minutes. For trim manicure The master will need 1.5 hours.
Machine processing is often called the improved European method. Problems can only arise if the nails are in very poor condition. It will not be possible to bring them back to normal in one session.
Types of hardware manicure
We can do:
- Classic nail treatment with a cutter.
- Treatment with further coating with gel polish under the cuticle.
The first method has already been discussed above.
Hardware manicure “Combo”
Removing the coating.
Alignment of the nail plate (if necessary).
Shaping.
Cuticle treatment.
Cuticle trimming.
Cuticle polishing.
Coating application technology: primer base gel polish top.
More detailed information for hardware manicure at home, see step by step instructions in the photo below.
The second is a combination of hardware and edged manicure. In this case, the cuticle is first processed with a cutter and then adjusted using tweezers or scissors. There is no need to hold your hands in the bath to soften the skin, the entire preparatory work makes the device.
The main advantage of a combined hardware manicure is the complete removal of the stratum corneum, even if the nails have not been cared for for a long time.
Having tidied up our hands, we usually strive to decorate them with fresh nail art. But even the most fashionable manicure will look ridiculous if the nail hole is not completely or unevenly painted. This occurs either due to poor adhesion to the coating and subsequent slipping of the varnish during polymerization, or due to nail regrowth.
As a preventive measure, the technique of applying gel polish under the cuticle is used. The pterygium is lifted with a proximal roller, the pterygium is carefully cleaned, and then coloring is done close to the base of the nail.
Gel polish under the cuticle can be applied using a thin brush.
Important: An effective result is only possible if unedged manicure, when the cuticle grows along with the plate and covers the emerging gaps. Processing with a milling cutter in this case is considered optimal.
What do you need for a hardware manicure at home?
First of all, we need a router and a set of attachments for it. In addition, you will need additional tools:
- Orange sticks or pusher to push back cuticles.
- A special brush that is used to remove dust while processing nails.
- A file (preferably glass or ceramic) with a hardness of 180 – 240 grit.
- Often craftsmen buy a special desktop vacuum cleaner for the convenience of sawdust extraction.
How to choose a router for home hardware manicure?
- The power of the device must be at least 35 W. If you plan to do manicures not only for yourself, but also for clients, the optimal value will be 100 - 120 W.
- Another important indicator is speed. For a hardware manicure at home, a cutter rotation speed of 20 thousand rpm will be sufficient, and a pedicure will require 35 - 40 thousand rpm.
- The device should not be too expensive, but you should avoid cheap models as their quality leaves much to be desired.
- A machine with reverse is preferable.
- It is important that the handle of the router has a collet clamp - it is the most convenient and reliable, and is also equipped with a cooling system.
Description of cutters for hardware manicure
Diamond tips work best with thin cuticles; you can “trust” them with the most complex nails. However, the cost of such products is high. When performing hardware manicure at home, two cone-shaped diamond cutters of different diameters will be quite sufficient.
Diamond cutters
Ceramic cutters
Advice: Ceramic attachments are ideal for beginner craftswomen. They are considered the safest because they do not injure the skin and do not heat up during operation.
Pay attention to the markings of the cutters. For manicure, you usually need a tool with a red and blue line, which means low and medium abrasiveness, respectively.
Which attachments should I use for what?
| Type of cutter | Function | |
 | Boron (ball) | Thins and gently removes the keratinized part of the cuticle, polishes the nail fold |
| Flame | Treatment of the lateral sinuses |
 | Cone with rounded point | Cleaning the pterygium, making the side ridges smooth. |
 | truncated cone | Sanding the skin adjacent to the nail plate |
 | Reverse cone | Formation of the free edge of the nail with french manicure |
 | Rounded cylinder | A universal tool. Lifts cuticles, cleans nails from pterygium, polishes, removes artificial coating. |
| Needle | Deep cleaning of the lateral sinuses and sinuses |
 | Silicone polisher | Adding gloss to the nail plate and surrounding areas skin |
How to properly do a hardware manicure at home
Attention: To treat your own nails, it will be enough to familiarize yourself with step by step description hardware method on the Internet and watch relevant video materials designed to teach beginners.
However, if you plan to serve clients, you should complete professional courses where they will tell you about the secrets and intricacies of this procedure.
Hardware manicure for beginners step by step
Apply disinfectant solution to your hands.
We give the free edge of the nail plate the desired shape with a file with an abrasiveness of 180 grit.
Before doing a hardware manicure, carefully push back the cuticle using a pusher or a wooden stick (the second method is more delicate).
We remove the pterygium and lift the cuticle using a cone-shaped cutter with a rounded tip.
Important: The nozzle must be positioned parallel to the nail plate so as not to accidentally make a cut.
We work in reverse. When moving the cutter to the right, move your hand to the left and vice versa. Correctly performing a manicure involves first treating one side of the nail on all ten fingers and only then, after switching the cutter, the other.
At the same time, we grind the side rollers.
Manicure for beginners at this stage is optimally done at 15 - 17 thousand rpm.
We thin the cuticle with a spherical bur, d 1.2 mm.
Important: Hold the cutter perpendicular to the nail plate. We move the ball only along the skin so as not to leave scratches. It is very important, when going through the sinus, not to change the position of the cutter, following the shape of the nail, otherwise you can snag and tear the cuticle skin. We guide the nozzle all the time in one direction, turning not it, but the finger.
We cut the cuticle with a round bur, d 3.0 mm, with fine abrasiveness. Here you need to move parallel to the nail, repeating the shape of the hole. We work at 17 thousand rpm.
Using a rough grinder, we process the nail plate for a decorative coating. You can replace the cutter with a buff with the same abrasiveness.
Use a gray polisher to go over the skin adjacent to the nail. The rotation speed of the cutter should be no more than 7 thousand rpm. We work only with the tip of the polisher, making light pushing movements and moving along the cuticle growth zone.
Using oil with regenerating properties, we nourish the nails and, at the same time, remove sawdust from them. Remove excess with a napkin.
The main mistakes in performing a manicure
- Careless attitude towards the router and other working tools. Poor quality, poorly cleaned of sawdust, undisinfected attachments can lead to problems with nails and skin of the hands.
- High speed. While we are just undergoing training in hardware manicure, we cannot work at high speeds, this is fraught with injuries.
- Incorrectly selected cutters when removing pterygium. “Bullet” and “flame”, loved by many beginners, do not open the cuticle enough and also leave cuts on the nail.
- Working with a polisher. Do not hold the cutter in one place for more than 1 second or bring it close to the edge of the nail.
- Incorrectly selected abrasiveness. Nozzles with blue markings are suitable for coarse cuticles, while those with red markings are only suitable for thin or weakened cuticles.
- Continuous operation of the device. It is necessary to stop every 6 - 8 minutes to allow it to overheat.
- Cuticle remover oil should not be applied before the procedure, as its effectiveness will not increase, but will decrease.
Nails after a hardware manicure should be ideal in shape and retain their original appearance for a long time.
Next, we offer a step-by-step video tutorial “How to do the right hardware manicure”
Making mistakes on the way to mastering the skill of hardware manicure is normal both for beginners and home performance. Familiarize yourself with the most common of them to avoid failures and get a beautiful and well-groomed manicure for yourself and your clients.
If you are looking forward with horror to the stage of removing the cuticle with a ball, and consider it the most unpredictable in hardware manicure, then professional masters assure that it is not the most difficult step, but the very first step - lifting and opening the cuticle.
If the cuticle angle is less than 90°, then it is almost guaranteed that you will not be able to remove it completely with a ball. The result is that the manicure will last not 2 weeks, as expected, but 2-3 days, and then the growth will begin again.
Even more dire consequences of this mistake are skin damage and possible inflammation if you decide to walk over the area with a ball.
Error 2: Incorrect grip of the finger when processing with a milling cutter
When working with the client's cuticle, you need to hold your finger from above, working on the right side of the nail, and grab it from below when moving to the left side.
When gripping with your left hand, support your finger with the little finger of your right to ensure the accuracy of your movements. It is also recommended to move the pad away with your little finger to gain greater access to the side cuticles.
If you grip your finger incorrectly, it will be difficult for you to hold a cutter with a blunt end parallel to the nail plate. In some areas you will have to press harder to reach hard-to-reach areas at the desired angle. As a result, nail cuts may form.
Mistake 4: Incorrect cuticle ball technique
Working with a ball-shaped cutter should take place in two stages. First, turn the cuticle out with the ball, that is, lightly walk under it with the nozzle so that it rises at an angle of 90 °. And only after that start peeling the skin with a ball. It will be removed easily and neatly.
If you skip the first stage and immediately start cutting off the semi-adjacent cuticle, you may end up with microtraumas and hangnails. Add to them an incompletely removed pterygium and the remnants of overhanging skin, which will shorten the life of the manicure by half or even three times.
Hardware manicure - answering frequently asked questions
Error 5: Incorrect choice of abrasive density for a ball-shaped cutter
Novice craftsmen mistakenly believe that a cuticle scraping ball should have a soft abrasiveness, and start working with a cutter with a red or even yellow notch. This is the wrong approach. The effectiveness of peeling decreases significantly and the skin can be torn by the nozzle. Another disadvantage is that the soft-coated ball quickly becomes clogged, and by the fifth nail you will have to replace it with a new one.
For working with cuticle skin, a diamond ball with a blue notch is ideal. Cutters with black and green marks are designed to work with artificial nails and for removing gel polish.
Nail structure and growth: what healthy nails and skin should look like, care rules
Error 6: Cutter speed too high or low
The speed of devices for hardware manicure can reach 30,000 rpm. Professionals can afford to work at 10,000-12,000 rpm, and beginners are recommended to work in the range of 4,000-6,000 rpm. Otherwise, without proper practice, you can simply erase the nail.
When you start working, set the speed to 5000 rpm, and then vary according to your feelings or your client's. If the cutter is slipping, add speed, but if you feel a burning sensation, then it is better to slow down a little.
Please note that different stages Performing hardware manicure also requires speed adaptation. Listen to the recommendations of professionals, and also analyze your experience and take into account the characteristics of your skin.
Hardware manicure with one cutter: how to do it, choice of attachment
Error 7: Incorrect order of hardware manicure steps
Newbies at home and professional manicure may encounter just such an annoying error, and then wonder why nothing works? In fact, there are not many stages - only 4.
- Lifting and opening the cuticle with a corundum cone and a highly abrasive ball (blue notch)
- Cleaning the lateral sinuses and the area under the cuticle using bullet and ball attachments
- Cleaning raised cuticles with a ball
- Sanding the cut with a polisher
Without a well-raised cuticle and cleaned pterygium, it will be difficult to remove the skin with a ball, and even a polisher will not help achieve an ideal surface of the treated area. Failure to follow the steps will affect the quality of the manicure and its lifespan.
Top 7 models of devices for manicure and pedicure - select and evaluate
Error 8: Working with a cutter for a long time in one place
When you start working on a hardware manicure, you can make another simple and common mistake - working on one area for too long. Consequences - microtraumas, cuts, burrs and Bad mood you and the client.
Are you afraid to start working with leather right away? Buy a special dummy hand or artificial fingers to practice with. Yes, these exist in professional stores and are intended for training future masters.
Manicurist training
Mistake 9: Hardware manicure on injured skin or wet nails
