Unfortunately, for some reason the Season website stopped working for me. Especially for katrin_morgan This instruction is from the Season, downloaded by me a long time ago from the section of all sorts of useful materials available for download. Unfortunately, I don’t know who the author of this manual is, so I can’t provide a link to it. If anyone reading this knows, I would be very grateful if you tell me, I will definitely write it here and give a link.
So, the description itself (I quote verbatim):

"How I made a skirt with hoops. It's very simple and the skirt can be made in any shape.

1. We draw ourselves schematically on a sheet of paper. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the height of the heel, then the exact height, as well as the maximum length side seam

("waist to floor length, without heels") In the drawing this is AC. Then we measure DC - these are those 5 centimeters, thanks to which the dress does not move along the ground.

2. Then we draw a skirt of the shape we want. Then we carry out direct FD.

This is the full length of the underskirt. If you want the underskirt to be shorter than the upper, then you need to take this into account and make the total length of this underskirt shorter. This drawing shows the full length of the BD petticoat. Now we mark the segment ED. Here it is 5 cm. This is done so that in the future the hoop will not be visible through the skirt.

3. Now mark the segment BG. The G spot is the beginning of the expansion of our skirt.

The size of the BG segment depends on the dress model. Now we divide the segment GE into 4 equal parts (since our skirt has 4 hoops) Draw horizontal lines from these points. This is the radius of our hoops.

For example, one of them is HI. We measure them very accurately.

4. Now we substitute the data into the formula. L=2*3.14*R

L is the length of the hoop

*this is multiply

R is our radius

And this is how we get the length of the hoops.

The store cut my hoops directly according to these data.

Now let's make the skirt itself.

1. Measure the length of the skirt between the hoops (in the drawing it is 20 cm). And we cut out 4 strips from the lining fabric with a width of 20 cm + seam allowances, and a length corresponding to the length of the hoops + seam allowances.

2. Measure the segment KG. We substitute it into our formula and cut out a rectangle from the material with width BG and length obtained from the formula + allowances for seams and for inserting elastic.

3. Now we sew the parts together, gathering the top of the strips to the length of the bottom of the next top strip. We insert an elastic band on the belt, and also sew two ties for “confidence”.

4. At the bottom of the 4 strips we sew strips of fabric for inserting hoops or sew allowances and then you can insert a hoop into them.

5. Cut the rigid mesh into strips + 5cm wide. The drawing shows 25cm. This is done so that the mesh covers the hoop. Sew the mesh at the top of each strip. Embroider the length of the mesh so that it is 3 times longer than the strip, i.e. if the strip is 1 meter, then the length of the grid is 3 meters.

Distinctive feature wedding dress- fullness of the skirt. Every girl since childhood dreams of a flowing wedding dress. This effect is achieved by placing a special petticoat under the dress. Choosing this wardrobe item is not as important as finding the desired wedding attire. But the look of the whole image, its completeness, depends on the correct petticoat or, as it is also called, crinoline. This wardrobe detail, hidden from prying eyes, is needed not only for ballroom-style dresses, but also for dresses with an A-line or empire style.

The main types of petticoats for a wedding dress

The main function of a wedding petticoat is to emphasize the style of the dress; it makes the skirt decorated and complete, which sets the tone for the entire outfit. Without this inconspicuous wardrobe detail, the dress will not seem so elegant and festive. Some brides prefer not to buy a crinoline, believing that it restricts movement, does not allow you to feel comfortable on the holiday, and interferes with dancing.

If you choose the right style of accessory, it will not only prevent you from enjoying every minute of the special day, but will also make your image gentle and romantic, like that of a fairy-tale princess. Lush crinolines make the bride's gait smooth and elegant. But to decide which petticoat will suit yours wedding dress, you need to understand the types of this accessory.

With flexible rings

Petticoats with flexible rings are the most popular among modern brides. This type of crinoline is considered a lightweight option compared to an accessory with rigid rings. When sewing this element of a wedding wardrobe, fabric is used instead of rigid mesh, as in other models. The advantage of flexible plastic rings is that they do not stand out when walking.

The bride will have no difficulty moving around in a dress with a petticoat that has flexible rings. She can easily get into a car, sit at a banquet table, and even participate in outdoor competitions and dance. The only disadvantage of such models is the fragility of the plastic. Rings may break if pressed hard or folded incorrectly, which will ruin appearance outfit. The cost of petticoats with flexible rings is slightly more expensive than models with rigid inserts.

With hard 1 to 7 rings

Petticoat with rigid rings – classic version real crinoline. When such an accessory first came into fashion, it was sewn from a special fabric containing horsehair and linen threads. Due to the rigidity of this fabric, crinolines held their shape and volume well. Modern tailors, when making crinoline skirts, use a mesh with inserts of hard rings, and their number in the petticoat depends on the desired style and varies from one to seven.

The accessory model with rigid rings creates space under the skirt wedding dress, thanks to which the bride can move with ease without getting her feet tangled in a multi-layered dress while dancing. But this type also has disadvantages. So, when walking, hard rings stand out under the skirt of the dress, and if the wedding dress is made of thin fabric, then the tin frame will be visible through. It may also be difficult to get into a car because the rigid petticoat lifts up a lot.

Multilayer without rings

Sometimes brides are looking for options for petticoats that do not have rings at the base, spoiling the appearance of the outfit, standing out from under the skirt. They opt for multi-layer crinolines, the volume of which is achieved due to large quantities layers of fabric sewn on top of each other, rather than thanks to a strong ring frame. But the multilayer structure also has its drawbacks.

Experts recommend choosing such accessory models only for short dresses or slightly below the knee length. If a multi-layer crinoline is sewn for a floor-length dress, then this means using a large yardage of fabric, which will significantly affect the price. As a result, due to the abundance of material, the product will be heavy and will cause discomfort when walking. Since in the manufacture of multi-layer petticoats they traditionally use synthetic fabrics, then it is hot and unpleasant in such products.

For dresses with trains

Wedding petticoats for dresses with trains are difficult to find. Such products are much more expensive than other models. These crinolines are made on the principle of petticoats with plastic or tin rings, on top of which mesh or fabric frills are sewn. The only difference is that its dimensions increase depending on the length of the train. Such crinolines are mainly made to order.

The obvious disadvantage of a petticoat with a train is its inconvenience. It will be uncomfortable for the bride to sit down in an outfit that has such an accessory, since when sitting on a chair or in a car, the train will only lie in one direction, and the mesh frills will lie in the other. This will make the outfit look strange and unattractive, make beautiful photo or a video with a sitting bride will not work.

With mesh or fabric frills

Lush petticoats with frills are sewn from tulle or mesh. Many fabric ruffles are sewn to the base until the desired length and volume are achieved. You can wear such petticoats either on their own or over a crinoline with rings. Due to the multi-layer nature of the accessory, the frame will not be visible and will not stand out. The dress gets extra volume, and the rings remain hidden from prying eyes.

If a tulle petticoat is worn without a frame, then you should not expect good volume. Therefore some wedding salons They offer brides crinolines with hard or plastic rings, on top of which many rows of frills are sewn. This petticoat holds its shape well, and the outfit as a whole looks neater and more sophisticated than with an accessory without fabric frills.

How to sew a petticoat with your own hands?

To sew your own wedding petticoat at home, you will need:

  • tulle;
  • calico;
  • white synthetic threads;
  • braid;
  • button;
  • sewing machine.

Sewing instructions:

  1. Choose a tulle that matches the type of fabric of your dress. For a petticoat for a satin dress, you will need a hard tulle, and for a silk dress, a soft type of fabric.
  2. Measure the length of the wedding dress; the petticoat should be 2-3 cm shorter than the dress.
  3. Determine the width of the crinoline petticoat. Based on this indicator, calculate the width and number of fabric frills.
  4. Measure your waist.
  5. Create a pattern for the base of the petticoat like a six-piece or half-sun. Make a small cut in the waist area - the place where the fastener will be attached. Fasteners are made in the form of buttons or hooks.
  6. Cut out the required number of ruffles from tulle. Please note that the width of the bottom frill should be approximately three times wider than the base of the petticoat. To create a crinoline, three to eight frills are made.
  7. Sew each frill along the narrow side, giving it the appearance of a ring. When sewing the edges of the frill on the machine, pull the thread so as to create even folds.
  8. Sew all the prepared and finished frills to the base of the skirt, making sure that the edge of the first top frill is located 3-4 cm below the fastening seam. The wedding petticoat is ready!

Crinoline made from balloon sticks

After searching for a suitable crinoline, we decided to make it ourselves and only because it was very necessary full skirt of 5 rings. As always, we don’t have what we want.

The crinoline itself is made of 6 wedges, the height of the wedge is 1 m, sewn on strips of fabric in rings of 5 rows and 12 vertical stripes. I sewed rings on the inside, vertical stripes on the outside, making a pass at the intersection.

They didn’t want to use wire because the skirt would simply bend and be very heavy, but we had to dance. We went through everything we could think of; we needed it cheap, accessible, and also very convenient. And then I caught my eye balloon, my daughter gave it to me, but you couldn’t give it up. Then it dawned on us: take a package of sticks and use it, and that’s how stripes with 5 rings and 12 vertical ones appeared. I stitched everything evenly, sewed on a belt for the elastic, prepared the sticks themselves and sat down to work.

It is very good to cut the sticks with simple wire cutters to obtain the desired size to assemble the ring. We carefully cut off the tips, remove the socket itself, also remove the burr and get an excellent connecting nut. We insert sticks onto the vertical strips (connecting end to end with a nut), cut off the excess and sew up the entrance. Now we simply connect the sticks end to end and push them through the ring. When we have gone completely around the circle, we bring them together and cut off the excess end, put on our nut and pull the strips inward.



The crinoline turned out to be very light, it bends, recovers and keeps its shape, even if it breaks, repairs can be done quickly. The most important thing about a package of 100 pieces is the price of 40 rubles. I immediately made a supply for myself, I have the first dress, and after that there will be a second one.

Crinoline is a capricious thing. But today we will learn how to sew a crinoline with our own hands and look at the pattern for it.

1. We draw ourselves schematically on a sheet of paper. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the height of the heel, then the exact height, as well as the maximum length of the side seam
("length from waist to floor, without heels") In the drawing this is AC. Then we measure DC - these are those 5 centimeters, thanks to which the dress does not move along the ground.

2. Then we draw a skirt of the shape we want. Then we carry out direct FD.
This is the full length of the underskirt. If you want the underskirt to be shorter than the upper, then you need to take this into account and make the total length of this underskirt shorter. This drawing shows the full length of the BD petticoat. Now we mark the segment ED. Here it is 5 cm. This is done so that in the future the hoop will not be visible through the skirt.

3. Now mark the segment BG. The G spot is the beginning of the expansion of our skirt.
The size of the BG segment depends on the dress model. Now we divide the segment GE into 4 equal parts (since our skirt has 4 hoops) Draw horizontal lines from these points. This is the radius of our hoops.
For example, one of them is HI. We measure them very accurately.

4. Now we substitute the data into the formula. L=2*3.14*R
L is the length of the hoop
* is to multiply
R is our radius
And this is how we get the length of the hoops.
The store cut my hoops directly according to these data.
Now let's make the skirt itself.

1. Measure the length of the skirt between the hoops (in the drawing it is 20 cm). And we cut out 4 strips from the lining fabric with a width of 20 cm + seam allowances, and a length corresponding to the length of the hoops + seam allowances.

2. Measure the segment KG. We substitute it into our formula and cut out a rectangle from the material with width BG and length obtained from the formula + allowances for seams and for inserting elastic.

3. Now we sew the parts together, gathering the top of the strips to the length of the bottom of the next top strip. We insert an elastic band on the belt, and also sew two ties for “confidence”.

4. At the bottom of the 4 strips we sew strips of fabric for inserting hoops or sew allowances and then you can insert a hoop into them.

5. Cut the rigid mesh into strips + 5 cm wide. The drawing shows 25cm. This is done so that the mesh covers the hoop. Sew the mesh at the top of each strip. Embroider the length of the mesh so that it is 3 times longer than the strip, i.e. if the strip is 1 meter, then the length of the grid is 3 meters.

And then we assemble the mesh up to 1 meter and sew it to the strip.

Illustrated sewing guide, master class

In order to create a ball gown, a lady's dress from another era (for example, a costume of a historical figure), fluffy dress princess, maid of honor or queen, you will need an underskirt that gives the dress the necessary shape. This article will help you sew such a skirt yourself. The work will take time, but even a novice seamstress can handle this task if you follow the included instructions.

Before you start sewing, you need to decide what silhouette you want to recreate and what shape the petticoat should be.

1. Silhouette with elbows.
In section, the skirt has an oval cross-section, it widens greatly at the sides, and looks flat in front and behind.

2. Rococo silhouette.
The skirt has a round cross-section and looks equally voluminous from the front and back.

3. Neo-Baroque silhouette.
From the front, the skirt looks wide, but not full. In profile it looks like a "chair".

4. Empire silhouette.
The skirt flares out at the bottom and the waistline is very high. An additional petticoat is not used for this dress.

In different centuries, fashionistas used special devices to give skirts exquisite shapes. Let's look at them in a little more detail. So:

Bustle(from fr. tournure- “posture, demeanor”) - an element of clothing, a removable device in the form of a pad, which was placed by the ladies at the back of the dress just below the waist. The bustle was tied to the waist with a ribbon.

(fr. panier- “basket”) - a frame made of willow or metal rods, worn as a separate element under the dress, but over the underskirt.

Figs(from German. Fischbein- “fish bone, whalebone”) - the same as pannier, a frame made of whalebone. This name was common in Russia and Germany.

Crinoline (crinis+flax, hair+linen), - initially this was the name given to rigid linen or cotton fabric with a horsehair base, then this name began to be given to the rigid structure necessary to give the skirt the required shape, similar to pannier, but much more voluminous.

Now let's look at how to make these costume elements.

To work you will need: tulle or any other light fabric, regiline, padding polyester, flap cotton fabric.

PANNIER
Step 1.
Cut out the skirt details from tulle A And B. The shape of these parts is shown in the diagrams below; it is either a rectangle or a trapezoid. The skirt will gather strongly at the waist. The dotted line indicates the place where the gathering is performed. The dimensions of the parts depend on the desired length of the skirt (height of the part) and the desired fullness of the gathers (width of the part).

Step 2.
Sew regillin to the details of the skirt. Grinding locations are shown in the diagrams. Regilin should end approximately two centimeters from the seams of the parts, because... it does not stick to the seam.

Step 3.
The details are stitched together. Gather the top of the skirt (at the waist), giving the skirt the desired shape.

Step 4.
Cut a belt from cotton fabric and sew it to the skirt. Insert an elastic band into the belt. The skirt should be held fairly firmly at the waist. The pannier is ready!

Let's take a look at the pannier shapes used for different silhouettes.

Pannier for the "elbow" silhouette.

Shown are front and side views.

Part A is a rectangle. Two parts are cut out: front and back. Both practically do not fit together.

Part B - trapezoid. Two parts are cut out: for the left and right sides. Both gather heavily at the waist.

Pannier for the "rococo" silhouette.

Shown are side views and the finished skirt.

Part A is a rectangle. One detail is cut out. The skirt is sewn according to the “tatyanka” principle, while it is strongly gathered at the waist.

Pannier for the neo-baroque silhouette.

Shown is a side view and the finished skirt.

Part A is a rectangle. One piece is cut out for the front of the skirt.
The width of part A is 1/4 the width of the skirt. She pulls herself together a lot.

Part B - trapezoid. One detail is cut out: left side, back, right side.
The width of part B is 3/4 of the width of the skirt. The item gathers heavily at the waist.

BUSTLE
Step 1.
Cut out skirt details from any fabric A(1 piece) and B(2 pcs.). The shape of these parts is shown in the diagrams, part A is a “lobe”, part B is a crescent or semi-oval.

Step 2.
Fold parts wrong sides. Stitch together, leaving a small area uncovered in the seam. Turn the product inside out.

Step 3.
Fill the tournament with padding polyester (or padding polyester fluff, or any other filler). Sew the open seam by hand.

Step 4.
Sew a ribbon (ties) to the product. The tournament is ready!

Let's look at the bustle shapes used for various silhouettes.

Bustle for a silhouette with elbows.

Shown is a side view, a front view, and a view of the finished product.

Part A is a lobe, its width is approximately 3 cm, its length is equal to half the waist circumference minus 2 cm.

Part B is a crescent, its width is equal to half the waist circumference, its height is from 10 to 15 cm, depending on your desire.
Two parts A and four parts B are cut out. Two bustles are sewn on the left and right sides. The plot is general.

Tournament for the "rococo" silhouette.

Part B is a semi-oval, its width is equal to 3/4 of the waist circumference, the height is from 15 to 20 cm, depending on your desire.

Two parts B and one part A are cut out. One bustle with a tie is sewn.

Bust for a neo-baroque silhouette.

Shown is a side view, a front view and a view of the finished product.

Part A is a lobe, its width is approximately 3 cm, its length is 3/4 of the waist circumference minus 2 cm.

Part B is a crescent, its width is equal to 3/4 of the waist circumference, its height is from 10 to 15 cm, depending on your desire.

Two parts B and one part A are cut out. One bustle with a tie is sewn.

CRINOLINE
Step 1.
Cut a half sun skirt from tulle (or 3/4 sun, but in this case you will get a very voluminous skirt) depending on how full the skirt you want to get. For more information on constructing a circle skirt pattern, see.

Step 2.
Mark the lines dividing the height of the hem of the skirt into 3 parts (in the figure, lines 1, 2 and 3). Regiline is stitched along these lines and frills are sewn on. If a very full and stiff skirt is required, additional lines must be drawn (dotted lines in the figure).


Step 3.
Stitch regilin along the marked lines, not reaching 2 cm from the cut.

Step 4.
From tulle or lining fabric, cut out rectangles of the desired length (depending on the splendor of the frill) and a width equal to the distance between the drawn lines on the skirt, multiplied by 2.

Step 5.
Draw a line on the rectangle at two-thirds of the height (see figure) and sew a line with a stitch width of 5 mm. Gather up. Fold along the stitch line.

Step 6.
Sew the frills to the skirt, placing them so that the longer part of the frill is at the bottom. The picture shows skirts with three and six frills.


Step 7
Cut a belt from cotton fabric and sew it to the skirt. Insert an elastic band into the belt. The skirt should be held fairly firmly at the waist. The crinoline is ready!

Let's look at crinoline shapes used for various silhouettes.

Crinoline for a silhouette with elbows.

Front view shown.

The frills are sewn in two tiers on the sides, taking up 1/4 of the width of the skirt on the right and 1/4 of the width of the skirt on the left.

Crinoline for the "rococo" silhouette.

The front view is shown; the crinoline looks exactly the same from the side.

3 or 6 tiers of frills are sewn on depending on your desire.

Crinoline for a neo-baroque silhouette.

Side and front views are shown.

Frills are sewn on the back, occupying either 3/4 or 2/3 of the width of the skirt.

Thus, we considered the possibility of creating silhouettes with three in various ways. Making a bustle is the fastest and most economical. It is more difficult to make a pannier. Crinoline is the most labor-intensive and most expensive option. Which option to use is up to you. In any case, we wish you success and the joy of creativity!

Author of text, drawings, diagrams: