And outside the window, outside the window, the beauty of the new moon.
Weeping willows whisper with Bug.
Year forty-one, beginning of June -
Still alive, still alive.
Everything, everything...
Everything is ahead, everything is still, everything is the day before.
Twenty happy sunrises left.
Year forty-one, beginning of June -
Still alive, still alive
Everything, everything...
They were warm summer days, the air in Moscow was filled with blooming linden trees. In the tenth grade, exams began, someone was going on vacation to the Crimea, L. Utesov and L. Orlova were watching from the posters... Nothing, it seems, foreshadowed the huge tragedy that would begin soon, that at many industrial enterprises, including in the perfume industry, there will be silence. It would seem, why are there spirits at this tragic time, when the number of killed and dispossessed is incalculable. However, the spirits of the Soviet era during this period of sorrow and loss had an unexpected patriotic pathos on a par with the music and poetry of those years.
Chemical plants, including Esters, were evacuated from Moscow and Leningrad to the Urals. Already on the ice of Lake Ladoga, under artillery fire, all the equipment of the Lenaromat plant was taken out. The Moscow factories “New Zarya” and “Svoboda” switched to martial law - men went to the front, women built anti-tank barriers. Is it before perfumery?... At the Svoboda factory, they produced soap and tooth powder for the army day and night. The population was given everything on cards and in very limited quantities. Then a piece of soap became a highly valuable thing.
The Novaya Zarya factory used the remaining stocks of ethyl alcohol to produce cologne for senior officers. For the rest, this was not available either with cards or with money. Ethyl alcohol was a strategically important product during the war. Before the war, it was produced from food raw materials, and already in the first years of the war, vast territories of our country, where up to 38% of grains and 87% of sugar beets were grown, were occupied by the Nazis. But alcohol was very necessary not only for perfumery, but also for medicine and pharmaceuticals. Therefore, various agricultural products from Siberia, Altai, and the Far East were used to produce alcohol.
The patriotic upsurge grew every day, and not only on the battlefields or at factory machines in the rear, but also in the cultural space of Soviet wartime life, which gave rise to outstanding works of music and poetry. And the perfumes “Red Moscow” and “Wait for me” wafted their aroma over the devastated country as a symbol of perfumery’s service to human feelings:
In dirt, in darkness, in hunger, in sadness,
Where death, like a shadow, trailed on the heels,
We used to be so happy
We breathed such wild freedom,
That our grandchildren would envy us...
In 2004, perfume products under the brand name “Nouvelle Etoile” appeared on the world market. Not many people know that behind this name is the history of the oldest Russian factory “New Zarya”, which was founded in 1864 by Henri Brocard.
Opened in 1864, the factory began its history with the production of inexpensive, but very scarce soap at that time. Production quickly developed and expanded, and in the early 70s, Brocard decided to start producing perfumes and colognes. After some time, his products gain recognition far beyond the borders of Russia. In 1889, “Persian Lilac” received the Grand Prix at an exhibition in Paris, and the owners for the first time found themselves in second place.
By the beginning of the twentieth century, the factory began to be called the “Brocard Empire,” and every year it became more and more successful. At almost all competitions and exhibitions, Brokar's products received many awards and medals. Thus, by 1914, the factory had 8 gold medals (received at exhibitions in Paris, Nice, Barcelona, etc.)
In the same year, four Brocard stores opened in Moscow on Nikolskaya, Tverskaya, Arbat streets and on Kuznetsky Most.
After the October Revolution, the factory was nationalized and renamed State Soap Factory No. 5. Director A. Zvezdov is sent to restore order at the plant. It was he who hired the German engineer Bengsen and the French chemist-perfumer August Michel, who helped restore the factory. Three years later, a factory called State Soap and Perfume Factory No. 5 “Novaya Zarya” began operating in a new location.
Since 1922, in addition to essential products, they began to produce perfumes. The perfumes and colognes of “New Dawn” are gradually becoming very popular: “October”, “Paris Commune”, “New Dawn”, “Ninon”, “Cyclamen”. The fragrances of Brocard's period (“Loves, Loves Not,” “Wonderful Lilac,” “Lily of the Valley,” “Northern,” “Chypre,” “Triple”) remained popular. According to the factory legend, “Triple” cologne in a flask-shaped bottle was produced specifically without fragrance for Stalin.
In 1925, the Novaya Zarya factory introduced its wonderful fragrance “Red Moscow”. The author of the perfume composition is perfumer August Michel. Few knew that he called his invention, released back in 1913, dedicated to the House of Romanov - “The Empress’s Favorite Bouquet.” For many years this scent became business card not only factories, but also countries.
Every event that took place in the country was celebrated at the factory with a new scent. So, in 1927, for the 10th anniversary of the October Revolution, “Red Poppy” was released, and the factory dedicated the perfume “The Tale of the Fisherman and the Fish”, “The Tale of Tsar Saltan”, “The Queen of Spades” and the powder “Eugene Onegin” to Pushkin’s anniversaries. .
In 1958, at an exhibition in Brussels, “New Dawn” presented “The Black Casket”. “Blue Casket”, “Lights of Moscow”, “Stone Flower”, “Pearl”, “Evening”, “New Dawn”, “Northern” and many others. etc. All Soviet perfumery was highly appreciated by the international jury and received the “Grand Prix”. “Red Moscow” was recognized as the best fragrance and received a Gold Medal.
In the name of the next anniversary of the army, “Anniversary”, “Shield and Sword”, “Suliko”, “Triumph”, “Triumph” were released, and in honor of the conquest of space the cologne “Vostok” was released.
Some of the New Dawn fragrances are dedicated to the theater: “Great Artist”, “Debut”, “Mask”, “Confession”.
From 1979 to 1980, Novaya Zarya perfumers worked on fragrances in honor of the Moscow Olympics in August. The famous fragrances “Olympic Souvenir”, the perfumes “Olympian” and “Bear” were born in a bottle in the shape of the Olympic symbol.
For the 850th anniversary of Moscow, they released the “Mayor” fragrance, which soon became a prize-winner in the competition for the best perfume and cosmetic products of 1997, held by the Russian Perfume and Cosmetics Association.
Today's factory is intense, continuous work, because production is growing every year. Every year, up to 30 new types of perfumes and cosmetics are developed and introduced to the market.
A new stage in the development of the factory and production of products under the new name “Nouvelle Etoile” is a unique example of a fruitful and productive Russian-French partnership.
Class: Mass-Market, Middle-Market, Natural
Country: Russia
Price range:100 – 15 00 rub
Official website: http://novzar.ru/shop/
The New Zarya brand (Moscow) produces perfumed products in three classes:
- Classic, which usually includes fragrances such as “Red Moscow” or “Elena”.
- Modern, which are produced for a couple of years and then discontinued, like Kuznetsky Most or Minx.
- Limited edition, produced in several batches, such as “Persian lilac”.
In addition, the factory is actively working on the production of skin care and decorative cosmetics. Its lines are divided into men's and women's. Nail care products are presented in Lux and Standard classes.
How it all began
153 years ago, the hereditary perfumer Heinrich Brocard came up with a brilliant idea - to create his own enterprise where he would produce soap. And in the same year, he brought his idea to life - the first bars of cheap soap rolled off the assembly line, each with a letter of the alphabet on it. Baby soap went with a bang. But Heinrich himself was in no hurry to stop; on the contrary, already in the 70s of the last century he released a series of products related to high perfumery: perfumes and colognes. Over the course of several years, his company became a leader in the Russian market of those times, and gradually it also took pride of place abroad.
The revolution of 1917 did not bypass the factory - it was transferred to state ownership and renamed, it received a new name - soap factory number 5. After 5 years, the country's leadership transferred the factory to GosZnak, and from November it began to be called "New Dawn" - plant perfumery and soap products.
Nouvelle Etoile is a trademark of “New Dawn”
In the development of new generation products active participation hosted by prominent figures in the world of perfumery from France. The biggest contributions were made by Michel Almarac and Francis Camai. It was they who created the fragrances in their laboratories that allowed Novaya Zarya to receive many international awards. Models of packaging and bottles received their shape thanks to light hand designer from France - Thierry de Bashmakoff. And since the beginning of autumn 2004, such partnership activities have brought results - they have been registered trademark Nouvelle Etoile.
Despite the sharp turn in the history of the company, its management strictly ensures that all products comply with international standards and traditions introduced by Heinrich Brocard. Thanks to the documentation accumulated since his time, many fragrances of the past have been preserved, which harmoniously transferred into the popular new products of Nouvelle Etoile.
Now in our country the company’s products can be purchased in 38 stores of the Nouvelle Etoile chain, which are located in 31 cities. And if in 2006, which became the impetus for the development of the network, perfume could only be bought here, now all you need to do is go to the factory’s online store website.
Products
There are more than 1000 titles. From perfumed deodorants and car fresheners to Limited edition and Classic perfumes. All products are natural raw materials. For example, the “Russian Beauty” series of skin care cosmetics will help preserve youth thanks to natural and well-chosen ingredients. Super facial serum with a restorative effect contains cornflower extract, which will remove swelling and help restore wrinkle-free beauty to the skin.
"New Dawn" is a Moscow perfume and cosmetics factory. Domestic perfumery has its own long history. And of course, the Russian perfume industry was started by a Frenchman. His name is Henri Brocard. This famous French perfumer arrived in Russia in 1861, and in 1864 he founded a factory in Moscow, which is still known today as “New Dawn”. 
At the end of the 19th century, this factory was the largest in Europe! Since 1925 it has been producing famous perfumes"Red Moscow". 
Brocard came from a perfume dynasty. His father, Atanas, owned a perfume factory and had his own store on the Champs Elysees in Paris.
Atanas' son Heinrich turned out to be much more fortunate. In the story of this success, as always, “cherche la femme,” or “look for a woman.” Heinrich Brocard owes much of his work to his wife, Charlotte Reve. Belgian by birth, born in Russia and educated in Moscow, she was very familiar with our culture. 
CHARLOTTE AND HENRY BROCKARD.
Valentin Pikul in the story “The Fragrant Symphony of Life” writes: “The brokers opened a second store on Birzhevaya Square, and then they had to call the police, because a huge crowd threatened to destroy the doors and break windows in order to break through to the counter. The fact is that Charlotte Andreevna came up with an unprecedented surprise. “Sets” were sold for just one ruble: ten perfume products with the same scents (perfume, cologne, powder, creams, sachets, lipsticks, etc.) were packed in an elegant box. They managed to sell only two thousand “sets”, after which the police, all in turmoil, ordered the store to be closed, unable to cope with the pressing crowd.” 
However, at first, at the factory opened by Brocard in Russia, they produced not perfumes at all, but... perfumed soap. At that time, soap was in short supply. Brocard's soap had unusual shape, for example, spherical or with printed Russian letters - for children. A cologne fountain was then installed for the public, into which anyone could dip a handkerchief for free, and thus began the great success of the Brocard Empire. The New Dawn perfumes were of excellent quality and were sold to many European countries. Unfortunately, the revolution of 1917 put an end to Brocard's Empire, but his factory, the famous "New Dawn", continued and continues to exist. 
Thanks to the factory, Novaya Zarya Street appeared in Moscow in connection with the planned construction of residential buildings on it for workers and employees of the factory. Until 1929, the modern 4th Roshchinsky passage bore this name. On October 10, 1929, the name was assigned to the street adjacent to the passage, which still bears this name today. 
Brocard's most famous creation was the perfume “The Empress's Favorite Bouquet,” released in 1913. Nowadays it is known as “Red Moscow”. These perfumes were created specifically for Grand Duchess Maria Alexandrovna, the last Russian Empress. However, although “Red Moscow” is served as the same “Bouquet”, there is an opinion that this is not entirely true. The fact is that no one except Brocard knew the exact composition of the “Bouquet”, and after his death the exact analogue was never found - Henry took it with him to the grave. 
Now “New Dawn” successfully competes with foreign perfume companies. Despite the fact that the New Dawn aromas retain excellent quality. 
However, in every barrel of honey there is always a fly in the ointment. Many of today's New Dawn perfumes replicate either the aroma or the bottle of well-known foreign perfumes. Obviously, such coincidences are not an accident. For example, New Dawn Green Tea is very similar to Elizabeth Arden Green Tea. But “White Tea” sends us straight to “Au The Blanc” from Bvlgari. “Delicate musk” (by the way, a magnificent aroma from the wonderful series “Magic of Patchouli”, “Golden Amber” and “Gentle Musk”) is reminiscent of “Musk Kublai Khan” by Serge Luten. “Kuznetsky Most” is a clone of the famous “Climat”. In “Red Poppy” you can easily recognize “Flower by Kenzo”. And in “White Iris” I personally hear “Anais Anais” from Cacharel. And so on, and so on... 
I BUYED THIS PERFUME. THE AROMAT IS EXACTLY LIKE CLIMAT. 
I think every person familiar with perfumery can have their own associations. However, all these comparisons do not at all detract from the quality of New Dawn perfumes - the aromas are excellent! Perhaps many people will be able to afford to buy these domestic analogues of foreign perfumes if the prices for imported perfumes seem too high. 
Surely many have already noticed the billboards on the streets of Moscow advertising the Nouvelle Etoile perfume store. This is nothing more than our old friend “New Dawn”, only in French, in a Russian-French project. 
Not only Russian, but also French professionals continue to work on the New Dawn fragrances. This means that the exchange of perfume experience between our two countries continues. Let's hope that this cooperation will not greatly affect the prices of long-loved perfumes. 
FOR MEN 
MORE ABOUT PERFUME "RED MOSCOW".
"Red Moscow" - famous in Soviet times women's perfume produced by the Moscow factory “New Dawn” (before the revolution - “Broccard and Co”). They contain more than 60 components; the official description of the perfume says: “A subtle, warm, noble aroma with a hint of orange blossom.” 
Rudolf Arkadyevich Friedman in his book “Perfumery”, published in 1955, writes: “Red Moscow is associated with elegant warmth, playful and flirtatious languor, melodic, plastic melodiousness”, “Red Moscow perfume, which is mainly a violet complex, the smell itself is quite sentimental, but which, thanks to a change in timbre and the introduction of a number of harmonizing substances, received a special beauty and richness of smell", "Red Moscow perfume, consisting of a mixture of the bases of iris, violet, cloves to perfect (round out) all these primary materials and to enhance their subtle scent require a significant proportion of jasmine essence.” Renata Litvinova characterizes them as “sugary, concentrated... giving rise to a feeling of normal healthy nostalgia.” In 1958 they were awarded a prize at the World Exhibition in Brussels. 
According to a less popular version, the Red Moscow perfume was created in the mid-1920s. with the participation of Polina Zhemchuzhina (wife of the future People's Commissar V.M. Molotov) and are not directly related to pre-revolutionary fragrances, since at that time the corresponding ingredients were not yet used in perfumery. 
There is also an urban legend about the special similarity of the scents “Red Moscow” and “Chanel No. 5”. At the same time, either Soviet perfumes are interpreted as an attempt by the Soviet perfume industry to copy the famous French scent, or it is argued that the French scent was synthesized by Ernest Beaux (who worked in Moscow before the revolution) based on the “Bouquet of the Empress.”
The showroom is located on the first floor, the Museum is on the second. Here are exhibits that have accumulated over a century and a half. The State Historical Museum also added to the exhibition. The museum's exposition consists of two small halls - the first is dedicated to the art of perfumery and its features from the 11th to the 20th centuries, but there are also more ancient rarities; the second reveals the history of the Novaya Zarya factory from its foundation to the present day.
The main exhibit is the glove maker! It was thanks to simple peddlers of gloves that wealthy citizens had free access to fragrances: leather items did not always smell pleasant and so that noble noses would not suffer, they were sold gloves with all sorts of eau de cologne (fr) - in other words, cologne (colonial or Cologne water).
In the display cases there are huge - sometimes almost human-sized - bottles in which the notorious cologne was poured precisely for hygienic purposes: they didn’t wash much, and even Napoleon himself used 30 gallons per month for the sake of cleanliness. Moreover, the bubonic plague added its contribution to the matter of hygiene, and I had to wear leather goods V large quantities: here the fragrant rivers of cologne flowed.
Egyptian balsamaria, the oldest exhibit on display, is more than 2000 years old. Medieval incense bowls and incense burners, luxurious toiletries of fashionistas of the 16th - 18th centuries (among them Madame Pompadour's garters, with recommendations on how to powder yourself embroidered on them).
At the end of the exhibition in Hall No. 1 there is a distillation apparatus for oils using the distillation method; distillation with steam (a jet of steam is passed through raw materials heated in a distillation cube).
There are also unusual things... Spectator tubes from the 18th century. Ladies were supposed to cry when watching plays where passions ran high. But to give out the right amount of tears right time Not everyone could. Therefore, the spectators brought tubes to their eyes - a crystal bottle with a binocular eye in the middle and smelling salts inside. I inhaled the pungent aroma and tears flowed with the required frequency.
A stand with aromas - this is where you can smell everything we know about: lily of the valley, ginger, musk, incense, patchouli... A huge number of aromatic natural scents that are not sold in pharmacies or stores. In our age, when a perfume composition consists of 70% non-natural ingredients, plunging into the world of real smells is worth a lot.
In room No. 2 there is the history of the Brocard and Co. Partnership factory, which is what “New Zarya” was called at the time of its founding. In 1864, a fragrance factory was founded by the hereditary fragrance connoisseur from France, Heinrich Brocard, and after the 1917 revolution. The factory was nationalized and renamed Zamoskvoretsky Perfume and Soap Factory No. 5. The faceless name did not catch on, and in 1922, at the suggestion of the chief perfumer August Michel (who had worked at the company since the time of Brocard), it became “New Dawn”.
Brocard was the first to make advertising sets that included small samples of his products (those same “samplers” would be adopted by perfumers all over the world in the 20th century). Judging by the marvelous beauty of the bottles, Brocard worked with the best glassmakers in Russia and Europe.
There is no guide (all the guides were fired recently) sad! - without them it’s not so interesting, now the sales consultant is narrating the story (from the 1st floor of the store). My friend and I were the only ones in the museum.
The excursion to the Perfume Museum is completely free! They also strictly warned that photos are prohibited!! I am posting a photo of the sign at the entrance.
MUSEUM: Tue-Sat from 10 to 19, Sun from 10 to 18, Mon - closed.
SHOP: Mon-Sat from 10 to 20, Sun from 10 to 19
👁 Do we book the hotel through booking as always? In the world, not only Booking exists (🙈 we pay for a huge percentage of hotels!) I have been practicing Rumguru for a long time, it’s really more profitable 💰💰 than Booking.
