Dress-trapezium, female tuxedo and fragrance of the legendary Opium. Unisex and luxury. "My dresses are designed for women who can afford to travel from forty suitcases." And what else do we know about the legendary couturier and his brainchild - the Saint Laurent fashion house?
Yves Saint-Laurent was born in Algeria in the family of wealthy French aristocrats. Ambitious mother predicted him a bright future in art. Thanks to her, the young man was in Paris, his sketches appreciated the chief editor of Vogue magazine. So in 1957, Saint-Laurent became a school student from-couture. 18-year-old Saint-Laurean was lucky to get to an internship to the legendary Christian Dora. The young man is idolized Matra. "At first I could not even talk in his presence. He taught me the basics of this art. And that, in the future, neither happened in my life, I always remembered the years spent next to Dior, "Saint Laurent said later.
After the death of Diora in 1957, Yves Saint-Laurent headed the legendary fashion house. It was under his leadership in 1959 the Christian Dior model went to the USSR. The whole world spoke about the young couture, and the silhouette of a trapezium, inspired by Russian Sundars, became a symbol of the 60s.
Yves Saint-Laurent at the very beginning of his career
Photo gettyimages.com
In 1960, Yves Senner was called up for military service: Algeria declared the struggle for independence from France. The young fashion designer stayed in the war for 20 days, and after with the strongest nervous breakdown came to the hospital. It was treated with electric shock. New leadership of the house Dior unilaterally terminated the contract with Saint-Laurent. What subsequently resulted in the trial of illegal dismissal.
One way or another, leaning the Dior of the Dior of $ 24 thousand, Saint-Laurent together with another Pierre Berge creates its own house models. The discovery took place in December 1961. "I switched from the world of fabrics and proportions to the world of silhouettes and lines," said Kuturier. At that time he was 21 years old.
In 1965, Yves Saint Laurent created the famous Mondrianov collection. On dresses-trapezes - geometric prints, fragments of pictures of the famous painter-abstractionist Pita Mondrian.
In addition to the two collections of Haute Couture since 1966, the fashionable house began to release two collections of Pret-A-Porter Rive Gauche. So began a democratic fashion of the finished dress. Inspired by the tendency to unisex and andfinity, Yves Saint-Laurent developed women's collection in male style, created the first tuxedo for women and a sign safari sign. Saint-Laurent was the first designer who used African and Asian models in his defile.
"Everyone is thinking about the flow of fashion, and Yves Saint-Laured thinks about modern clothes For a woman in the second half of the twentieth century, "said Great Coco Chanel
Yves Saint-Laurent also created costumes and scenery for performances, films and shows. For example, for Catherine Denev in the film Louis Bunuel "Day Beauty". For this job, Kuturier was awarded the Oscar award, and Denev remained the Museum of Saint-Laurent until the end of his days.
Catherine Denev (in the photo is extreme left) was the Saint-Laurean Museum (in the photo in the center) to the end of his days
Photo gettyimages.com
Since the end of the 80s, the ySL has begun a crisis. To fix things, Pierre Berge began to actively sell licenses for the use of the YSL brand. This led to the fact that the position of the trendy house lost its exclusivity, the products were converted, but the loss of the company continued to grow.
In 1998, Saint Laurent stopped engaged in the Rive Gauche line by hiring Albera Elbaza for the female and Edie Sliman for the male collection.
In 1999, YSL has acquired the GUCCI group, which invited the collection of Pret-A-port Tom Ford, which was characterized by pressure and some aggression. Between Ford and Saint-Lauren, an agreement was concluded about non-interfering in each other's affairs, but the Union did not work. In January 2001, Yves Saint-Laurent and Pierre Berezh demonstratively ignored the show of the first collection of finished clothes created by Tom Ford for YSL. At the same time, the next day, they visited Edie Slisan show for Christian Dior.
In the last interview, the great Yves Saint-Laurent said that he feels deceived and disappointed.
"Today I decided to say goodbye to the world of fashion that I loved," 65-year-old Yves Saint-Laurent reported on January 7, 2002
Master presented his last collection and closed the line from Couture. In 2008, the founder of the house Saint-Laurent died.
After the departure of Tom Ford in 2004, Stefano Pilati took up the Preta-A port line. His style was more French than Ford Frank Images.
It seemed that he was destined to be the one who became. At 13, he already made patterns of dresses for the mother and sisters, and they gave them to tailoring to local tremors. At 17 sent his sketches to the contest of young designers, organized by the international secretariat for wool, and took the first place.
At the awards ceremony, held in Paris, he met the then Chief of French Vogue Michel De Brunoff, who played a key role in his career. Discarding in a shy blue-eyed young man talent, he advises him to move to Paris and make a fashion.
In September 1954, following the Council de Brunoff, Saint Laurent moves to Paris and enters the high fashion syndicate courses. In November of the same year, he again ranks first in the competition of the international secretariat for wool with a cocktail dress design, bypassing another rising fashion star - Karl Lagerfeld.
In 1955, during one of the meetings with de Brunoff, Saint Laurent shows him his sketches. And the one affected by the similarity of the models with the design of the new collection of Christian Dior, which he saw this morning in the office of the legendary Couturier, decides to acquaint him with the work of a young artist.
I did not meet anyone more talented in my life, I will later write de Brunoff.
Dior, seeing the work of Saint-Laurent, instantly recognizes a like-minded man in it and immediately hires it into assistants. It will take quite a bit of time as Dior will name Saint Laurent right hand, And subsequently, the heir.
For me, it was happiness to work at Christian Dior, which I endlessly admired. At that time he was the most famous Couturier.<…> He taught me the basics of my craft. I owe him mostly of my success. No matter what happened to me later, I will never forget years spent with him, remembered late Saint-Laurent.
Little Prince of French Fashion
In August 1957, Christian Dior said Mother Saint-Laurean, who chose her son by the heir to his fashionable empire. The woman was somewhat surprised, because Materu was then only 52 years old.
A month later, Dior died from a heart attack during the rest at the Italian resort of Montecatini. According to his last wishes, Saint-Laurent was appointed art director of Christian Dior.
So at the age of 21, Yves Saint-Laurent began at the head of one of the most influential fashionable houses in the world: its products were 50% of the exported goods of the high-fashion segment, and the staff consisted of 1,400 employees.
Yves did not let down his mentor. The first collection created by him as head of the House of Christian Dior in January 1958, produced Furore. The dresses-traperation proposed by him laid the beginning of his subsequent revolutionary breakthroughs. The media immediately died his "Little Prince," who saved France.
In the period from 1958 to 1960, he created six collections for DIOR.
Exile from Dior.
In the 60th above the "Little Prince" clouds thickened. Instant glory and recognition of young genius did not give rest to the envious and competitors in Dior. Saint-Laurent, on which Dior left a fashionable house, "unexpectedly" call into the army and sent to Algeria, who fights with France for its independence.
The entire essence of the designer, whose childhood passed in Algerian Orane, opposes the military conflict. He was enough for 20 days of humiliation from colleagues to fall into the most severe depression. The young man is placed in a military clinic, where it is treated with psychotropic substances and electric shock. Everything else he comes to the notice that he is dismissed from the Dior.
Saint-Laurent struggled with the consequences of such "shock therapy", which manifested themselves in the form of a narcotic and alcohol dependence and developed by the depression, most of their lives.
Appeared by the time in his life Pierre Bezhar saved Saint-Laurean from Algerian "captivity" and helped him open his own trendy house, which was doomed to success.
"Live genius"
In the 60-70s, Saint Laurent becomes the king of radical chic. His revolutionary finds. The first breakthrough was the "Mondrian" collection, which was inspired by the work of the Netherlands abstractionist artist Peter Mondriana.
In 1966, he created a female tuxedo, which became a revolution in the fashion world and served as the basis for further emigration of typical male things in the female wardrobe.
... It was necessary to take into account the specifics of time. Women were increasingly included in the activity that demanded more freedom of movement ... Saint Laurent recalled.
He was the first designer who had proven that the woman in pants is beautiful, creating models that emphasize the female figure. The first risking to turn the park and Bushlat in fashionable upper clothes. The first to open up the line of boutiques of finished clothes (RIV GOSH).
He was always the first and step ahead, and this step was measured by several decades. Long before Gauthier used African ethnic motifs in collections and ahead of Lacra and Goleno, releasing a collection inspired by traditional costumes of various nations.
My modest role as a couturier is to create clothes, reflecting time, said Saint-Laurent and convened every time that he succeeds better than others.
In 1983, at the age of 47, he became the world's first designer, who was devoted to a lifetime exhibition at the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum in New York. Recognition of his merit in front of the fashion industry made his style icon.
Whatever he did, women around the world, all ages will follow him, said the curator of the exhibition Diana Vrilalyland, called Saint Laurent, not otherwise as a "live genius" from fashion.
Fate king
Well, they "crowned" me. But look at what happened to other kings of France, Saint-Laurent said in 1968 - long before the critics began to bury his talent in Novator.
It happened in the 80s, who passed under the sign of Saint-Laurean's chief: it rarely appears in public, except twice a year comes to a traditional bow at the end of the shows. Rumors went about his alcohol and drug addiction. At some point, Pierre Berge was forced to publicly declare that Saint Laurent was not sick of AIDS.
In one of the interviews, Saint-Laurent admitted that one day he was so bad that he "wanted to tie to her neck the most severe of his bronze sculptures" and rush to the Seine.
Wealth and glory were not saved from dependence and depression.
Critics from fashion hurried to declare that the times of Saint-Laurent passed and the king "no longer creates nothing new." But the 192th show, on which the best creations of the fashion house for 30 years of its existence were presented, proved the opposite.
Couturier Iva Henri Don Mathiere Saint-Laurent, known to us as Yves Saint-Laurent, is called a revolutionary Fashion industry, a small prince of high fashion and eternal classic. Noted that Saint-Laurent was the first among colleagues raised fashion to the level of art.
Friend and colleague Kuturier - Pierre Berge - summed up under the creative biography of Iva Saint-Laurent, noting that the fashion of the first half of the twentieth century was influenced, and the second half - Saint-Laurent. He gave humanity to the Unisex style, dressed women in tuxedo, high boots, transparent blouses and dresses trapezings. And the first one was invited to the podium of mannequins with dark skin.
Childhood and youth
Future "Architect" fashion clothes Born in Algerian Orane in the summer of 1936. The father's father worked by the insurance agent, and Mom became for Iva the first muse that inspired the creation of sketches of dresses. Her evening leaving the son and two daughters were waiting for the theatrical presentation. Draw sketches of clothes Yves Saint-Laurent started at 8 years old, and in 11 he was carried away by theatrical stage. Yes, so that it soon built the scenery of the house, dressed up dolls into the outfits glued from the painted flap.
In the house there was no fear of older, "performances" Iva gladly watched Mom, sisters and cousins. An indelible impression on the young kuturier produced the play of the Great Louis Khuve "School of Women", scenery and suits for which the French artist Christian Berar created.
Later, Saint-Laurent admitted that, seeing the clothes of theatrical actors from Berar, realized that the main thing in a suit was a soul, and a woman in a dress. In Algeria Yves Saint-Laurent graduated from college and lyceum, making focus on favorite subjects - French and Latin. Writers who influence the worldview, called Andre Zhida and, from the artists adored Matisse.
Design and Fashion
At 17, the young man arrived at the "Capital of Fashion" and signed up for drawing courses "from Kutur". The first success came in the same year: a black cocktail dress, the sketch of which created Yves Saint-Laurent, took the first place in the competition. Two years later, in 1955, 19-year-old young people took an assistant to the staff of the house. In 1957, the head of the fashion house died. For two years collaboration Dior saw the talent in the young assistant, so the owners of the brand made a bet on Iva Saint-Laurent, confesting the 21-year-old Couturier the position of art director.
At the beginning of 1958, the designer presented a debut collection at the court to the court, on which Iva Saint-Laurean inspired Russian Sundars. No one expected such a furor: from Iva was waiting for the continuation of the line of the diora - lush fitted silhouettes. And the newcomer presented a completely new onion - a-silhouette. Short trapezoidal dresses, stitched from flowing fabrics and silk, "waited" the female body and did not make the usual accent on the waist. The next day, after the presentation of Paris's tabloids, they wrote that Yves Saint-Laurent with his Saranfans "saved France."
In the summer of 1959, the designer went to Moscow in the company of twelve mannequins, becoming the pioneer of the French Fashion industry in the Soviet Union. Next year, the young Matra called on the army service and sent to Africa. The test of the military carrier Yves Saint-Laurent could not stand: after 20 days it was demobilized after the nervous breakdown and hospitalized. The young man was treated with electric shock and "hard" medical preparations, after which he lost up to 35 kilograms.
Yves Saint-Laurent and clothing models from the "Hipster" collection Returning to the fashion house, Yves Saint-Laurent came up with a new spring-summer collection "Hipster", which he presented in the 1960s. Cropped motorcycle jackets made of crocodile leather and mink coats with knitted sleeves frightened conservative investors at home: the collection seemed too avant-garde and luxurious. Saint-Laurean fired, replacing the extremal couturier to be predictable Mark Baran. Supported a dismissed designer friend Pierre Berge. He helped cope with the blow and exit the winner: Yves Saint-Laurent won monetary compensation for illegal contract breaking.
Fashion house YSL.
Finding a new investor - American entrepreneur Mark Robinson - Yves Saint-Laurent and Pierre Berez found their own fashion house with the YSL logo. Before the presentation of the collection at the end of January 1962, the Parisians were braveled about the upcoming failure, believing that the fashion designer had no money for the incarnation of conceived. But the ill-wishers were posted: a new line of clothing with the spirit of time with the silhouettes of the applause and Baroness de Rothschild.
Logo "Yves Saint-Laurent" In 1965, Yves Saint-Laurent presented the world a revolutionary collection "Mondrian", declaring that he was tired of sowing wives of millionaires. A-silhouettes of outfits with geometric drawings of the Netherlands artist Pita Mondrian surprised the world of fashion. In the collection, the designer used the works of modernists and Serzh Polyakova. Figure collection dresses - not print, but stitched colored pieces of fabric. The concept was picked up by Saint-Laurean's colleagues, making their own interpretations, but the origins of the idea stood Yves Saint-Laurent.
Collection of Iva Saint-Lauren "Mondrian" In 1966, YSL celebrated the opening of the first boutique store with roste-a-port clothing, in the title of which the Rive Gauche appeared in the name (left bank of the Seine, where Volnodumtsy, students and revolutionaries settled). The name was dictated by the revolutionary changes that Yves Saint Laurent introduced into the Fashion Industry: Women Couturier dressed in men's suits that looked sexually and elegant.
A year later, the "Tuxedo" collection took place, which Yves Saint-Laurent "finished" the remains of the patriarchal fashion. In the women's wardrobe appeared "men's" things - tuxedo, trouser costumes, jackets in the style of "safari", overalls and booster jackets. But these models, borrowing "courageous" silhouettes, did not deprive women of sexuality.
Marlene Dietrich demonstrates the collection of Iva Saint-Laurean "Tuxedo" The collection "Librasson" of 1971 became the most provocative, sticking to the head of the author a flurry criticism. At the line of suits Matra, Pickasso Paloma inspired. With a subtle taste and not afraid of experiments, a woman bought a suit of the 40s in the flea market, struck Iva Saint-Laurent. On the defile, women were published in clothes that resembled World War II.
Another muse that inspired Saint Laurent on the collection "Librason" was a well-known provocateur and Popifier Ostolev. The oldest older was indignant: they remembered the years of the Nazi occupation. Black tights, platform shoes and bright makeup inspired fashionable critics analogy with women of easy behavior from Boulogne forest. But on shift Shkwal, criticism unexpectedly came to the boom on the women's "men's" costumes from YSL: Yves Saint-Laurent again predicted the trends, being two steps ahead.
The editor of the Fashion Edition Diana Vrilalyland said that Kuturier "has a special magic manner for women," and whatever Maestro, the fashionista of all ages will go behind him. In 1976, Yves Saint-Laurent presented the "Russian Ballets and Opera" collection of the Russian Ballets and Opera, for which he was whining the Russian theater, ballet and national motives. The podium defiled beauties in the motley "peasant" dresses with embroidery and gold sew.
Dresses "Yves Saint-Laurent" 1990 was marked by a Tribute collection, which Madre, anticipating fast care, devoted to his beloved people - actors, dancers, artists. I would say easily Yves Saint-Laurent with fans and peace of fashion in January 2002. The show of the last collection was held in the center of George Pompidou. Farewell to Maestro, 40 years old joined and dictating the fashion, became a national event.
Cosmetics and perfume - another chapter of the bright creativity of Saint-Laurent. In 1971, the star of the world fashion industry presented the male fragrance "opium". Advertising turned out to be as provocative as the fragrance itself: for the presentation of the spirits, IV Saint-Laurent was exposed. In the future, the toilet and perfumed water "OPUM" was advertised, Rupert Everett and the example of an example couture naked Sophie.
Personal life
Pierre Berez was a friend, a companion and lover Iva Saint-Laurent. In the mid-1970s, the novel ended, but friendship and business partnership remained. Shortly before the death of Matra, the couple concluded civil marriage.
Yves Saint-Laurent was in love with Karl Lagerfeld's partner Jacques de Bashker. The young man took place from the educated family, was distinguished by an attractive appearance and love for secular parties. Jacques about 12 years old consisted of relations with Lagerfeld, but then went to Saint-Laurean. After 6 years, Jacques de Basher dies because of AIDS.
The unconventional orientation of Iva Saint-Laurean did not become an obstacle to love for women: borrowing male costumes Both suckers, unisex style was not desire to turn a woman in a man. Pants I. leather jackets From Saint-Laurent "breathe" with sexuality, jackets and sufari suits are surprisingly feminine and emphasized forms.
Women Iva Saint-Lauren is called, Pickso Pickasso, Mannequins, Verushka (Vera Von Lendorf) and Lulu de la Falez.
Death
The last six years of the Maestro's life spent in the Ultramarinic mansion in Marrakesh. Yves Saint-Laurent departed from affairs in the late 1980s due to health problems: Couturier abused alcohol and drugs, was repeatedly treated. In 1992, Berge announced the departure of Iva Saint-Laurent and the "end of high fashion", but the final departure from affairs happened after 10 years. Financial problems fell on the YSL house. Couturier died Sunday evening at the beginning of the summer of 2008 in Paris, who saw his ups and falls. The cause of the death of Iva Saint-Laurent was the brain tumor.
Farewell to the legislator of the World Fashion took place in the Paris Church of Saint-Roche. Dust Iva Saint-Lauren dispelled over his favorite garden at Villa "Mazhorel" in Marrakesh, where he loved to sit in the evenings in the company Bulldog on the nickname man III (the same nicknames received two previous PSA). Two films were removed about the work of the "Eternal Classic Fashion": "Yves Saint-Laurent" Jalil Lespré and "Saint-Laurent. Style - I'm "Berrão Bonello. Both paintings came out in 2014.
State condition for today
In 1999, IV Saint-Laurent's house acquired the Italian fashion house Gucci, which trusted to develop collections. Couturier worked on the creation of a new line until 2004, after its care, the relay was passed to Stefano Pilati. From 2011 to 2013, the executive director of the fashion house Yves Saint Laurent Paris became Belgian. During his leadership in the winter of the 2012th creative director, Edie Sluman was appointed creative director. In the summer of the same year, Svanima renamed the line in Saint Laurent Paris.
Perfume "Yves Saint-Laurent" In 2012, YSL perfumers created a perfume for a bold and liberated manifesto. The connoisseurs called the perfume "manifesto femininity": they "open" notes of greenery, in their "heart" flower symphony, which is completed by wood "chords".
Bags "Yves Saint-Laurent" In 2016, Sliemanna changed the designer Anthony Vaccarello. In 2017, Vakcquello merged together the shows of the female and male collections of the autumn-winter season. In the new collection, the designer presented provocative short skirts, Vinyl pants, corsets and once borrowed Saint Laurent boots with a high-tie. Vakccarello will turn the green to the Garmoshka. New fashion houses can be purchased on the official website. Prices for clothing models, bags and shoes fluctuate from "translated" to democratic.
Quotes
- "Over the years I realized that the most important thing in the dress is a woman who puts him on."
- "In this life I regret only one thing - that jeans did not come up with me."
- "The clothes must be subordinate to the personality of a woman, and not the opposite."
- "Love - best cosmetics. But it is easier for cosmetics. "
- "My dresses are designed for women who can afford to travel from forty suitcases."
- "In one" beautiful "day on the radio announced that I died. Collons of journalists rushed to me. It was necessary to say that this is all a lie: here I am alive and almost healthy. But for some reason they didn't want to believe me at all, although they saw me with their own eyes. "
- "SAMIA best clothes For a woman, it is an embrace of a loving man. But for those who are deprived of such happiness, there is me. "
- "Fashion passes, style is eternal."
The Elite High Fashion Brand Saint Laurent Paris before 2012 was called the name of his founder Yves Saint Laurent Yves Saint Laurent. The French brand produces clothes, shoes, perfume, watches, decorations and today belongs to the Pinault-Printemps-Redoute Group Holding.
The story of Saint Laurent Paris began not "contrary to", but "because". Many brands before being famous had to survive misunderstanding, a long way out of the bottom to glory. Yves Saint Laurent was born in 1936 a family of French aristocrats from Algeria, and should have become a lawyer, following the tradition of a kind. But Mother Laurent saw in him the designer's talent and contributed to the son of the Son to Paris to school at the Paris Syndicate of High Fashion Chambre Syndicale De La Haute Couture School when it was 17 years old.
Little Prince High Fashion
At the design competition, Wolmark Laurent won a victory thanks to an exquisite cocktail dress. So the young designer met Michelem De Broinoff - the chief editor of French Vogue, who contributed to the device of Laurent to work to Christian himself Dora. The bright appearance of the designer of the age of 21 in the trendy world fastened the nickname "Little High Fashion Prince".
In 1955, Laurent worked as an assistant Christian Diora and created his first evening Dress. Two years later, the Diora did not, and the brand of Christian Dior passed under the control of Iva Saint Laurent. Not having experience of the release of its own collections, Laurent began to lead the brand with a reputable name. In 1958, the first Christian Dior collection was published, which was fully created by a young designer, and not the founder of the brand. Laurent developed a new Silhouette of the "trapeze" for that time than attracted even more attention to Christian Dior and herself, proving that he rightly headed the brand.
There would be no happiness ...
In just two years later, after Yves Saint Laurent headed Christian Dior, in 1960, the Algerian war began for independence and designer called to the army. Less than a year in young man A nervous breakdown happened and placed him in a psychiatric hospital for recovery. Returning to France, Iv found that he was wrong with Christian Dior. A loud lawsuit began, as a result of which Yves Saint Laurent received major compensation.
Laurent discovered on the received funds, Laurent opened its own brand Yves Saint Laurent and next year released the first one's own collection. The public applauded standing on the first show, the covers of magazines flooded things from Yves Saint Laurent. Transparent blouses, glass and wooden beads for evening images And some other innovations of Laurent caused a spelling criticism in the United States, but instead of leaving the opinion of the crowd, the designer continued to create for women, and those in turn were grateful for extraordinary ideas.
New ideas in fashion
Yves Saint Laurent was a real breeze in the fashion world. In 1971, he created the collection "40S" consisting of things in retro style and introduced this style into fashion. In the seventies reacted quite critical, but very soon the collection was recognized as successful. Four years later Laurent created another fashionable style - Dandy. In 1976, Yves Saint Laurent presented a collection dedicated to Russia, and a little later - Russian ballet.
Iva Saint Laurean We are obliged to such familiar things like low-heeled boats with a square nose and metal buckle, a dress without sleeves and a collar, a black and white graphic pattern. The designer borrowed elements male Carderoba for women's clothingAnd his trouser suits criticism recognized the best after Chanel. He invented the female tuxedo.
Yves Saint Laurent did not bypass and perfume. The aroma "Opium" released in 1977 was a sales hit and successful to today. Male Yves Saint Laurent Pour Hommes gave the public to another scandal: Yves Saint Laurent starred naked in flavor advertising.
90s and 2000
In the 90s Yves Saint Laurent was a defendant in court and lost: the champagne manufacturer could not allow the unlawful use of the word "champagne".
In 1996, Yves Saint Laurent became a cavalier of the Order of Arts and Literature, and in 1998 invites the Albert Elbaz designer to head the clothes line rushing-a-port, leaving a high fashion line.
In 2002, Yves Saint Laured decided to leave the fashion world. The most likely reason for such a decision is that the designer could not accept large-scale sport style And jeans. It is also possible that the designer was frustrated finding his ideas from other couturies. At that time, the brand Yves Saint Laurent already belonged to Gucci.
In 2007, the line of everyday youth clothing of Edition24 was launched, but in a few years she was closed, and without achieving success. In the same year, Yves Saint Laurent was awarded the title of the Great Commander of the Order of the French Legion. In 2008, the designer died.
After Yves Saint Laurent
The brand was headed and continue to head talented designers. Tom Ford, Stefano Pilati, Eddie Slyman continued the case of a small prince of high fashion.
Brilliant designer of the XX century Yves Saint Laurent (Yves Saint Laurent) is the successor Coco Chanel in revolution women's costume. According to the greatest Mademoisel, she liberated women, and Yves Saint Laurent - made them strong.
Childhood and youthYves Saint Laurenta
The future designer was born in 1936 in the Algerian city of Oran in the family of lawyers. The boy showed interest in the dolls and drawing: he liked to invent dresses for them.
Studying in Legal College of Paris, Yves Saint Laurent decided to send several sketches to Vogue magazine and the competition organized by the International Wool Organization. It was waiting for a terrific success: the evening dress at the competition was awarded the first prize (along with the work of Karl Lagerfeld), and the chief editor of Vogue Mishel de Brunof showed the sketches of Laurean Christian Dora, who suggested that young talent to become his assistant. Urgently, IV got an apprentice to a simple tailor to get the cutting skills and sewing. At the same time, he studied at drawing courses from Kutuur.
Yves Saint Laurent (Yves Saint Laurent) -Photo: Dress Mondrian, 1965
Yves Saint-Laurent worked with Christian Dior to a little more than a year, and after his death in 1957 he headed the house of Diora. Young luckykika, as his painted press, was fulfilled by that time only 21 years! About him then said: "The king died! Long live the king!"
In 1958, Yves Saint Laurent created his first independent collection called "Trapeze", which became a bestseller. Instead of incredible lush skirts From Diora, he proposed more convenient styles in the form of a trapezoids that quickly entered the fashion. For the evening dress of 1958, he received the prestigious Nimanian Award of Marcus.
Yves Saint Laurent (Yves Saint Laurent) - Photo: Cocoon dress, dress with pigeons, etc.
Yves Saint Laurent was the first of the representatives of fashion "from Kutuur" agreed to show the collection of the house Dior in the USSR, which took place in June 1959.
However, the triumph was short-lived: because of the war in Algeria Yves Saint Lauren in 1960, called in the army.
Black days and salvation
The army was contraindicated sensitive young man: after three weeks he fell into a psychiatric clinic with severe depression. In such a position, he found Pierre Berge, who worked in the commercial department of the house of Diora and was friendly with Yves.
Berge achieved his dismissal from the army, he took half a year to the Canaries to restore health, sued the owner of the house of Diora due to the unauthorized dismissal of Yves Saint Laurent from the office of the artistic director and won the court. 680 thousand francs received on the lawsuit, Pierre Berge helped Yves Saint Lauren to open in 1962 his own fashion house Yves Saint-Laurent (YSL), persuading Millionaire Mac Robinson to invest his capital in this business.
Yves Saint Laurent - Photo: Accessories - Shoes and Bag
Strong, energetic Pierre Berez possessed the qualities that Iv Saint Laurent had not had a courage, a commercial grip, exclusive. He became a permanent director of Yves Saint Laurent.
Creativity Yves Saint Laurent
It is difficult to assess the importance of creativity West Saint Laurent for modern fashion. He was a height of such styles such as Beat, Op Art, Carmen, Male, Safari, Hippie, Ethno-African Look, Transparent, Unisex. Each collection was a sensation. He introduced to the piggy bank female fashion A huge amount of bestsellers for all times: Silhouettes "Trapeze", biker jackets and leather trenches, sailors and boots, trouser costumes and tuxedo, high boots boots, transparent blouses, mini-skirts in the form of a ball, gypsy dresses, etc.
Photo: Fashion 70s from Yves Saint Laurent - Broke Costume and Verushka in Safari Suit (famous photo)
No one before him used the skin for women's clothing, considering it too rude material, but today it is one of the most sought-after materials. Things from the male wardrobe were used by women before, but he introduced the fashion on them, allowing a woman to look especially seductive. "In this life, I regret only one thing - that the jeans did not come up with me," said somehow designer.
Yves Saint Laurent loved art, so repeatedly addressed the works of painting, as to sources of creativity. The Mondrian collection includes the Mondrian collection (1965), created on the basis of the painting of the abstractionist Pita Mondriana, OP Art dresses. In the 80s, collections dedicated to Picasso and Cubism were created.
Fashion from Yves Saint Laurent - Photo: Tuxedo, fur coat on the Maja Campbell, etc.
Its works for the theater and cinema are no number: Catherine's outfits Denies in the films "Siren Mississippi" and "Day Beauty", Claudia Cardinal costumes in the film "Pink Panther" and Sophie Loren - in "Arabesque" and others.
Yves Saint Laurent was interested in Russian culture, he was familiar with Lily Bric and Maya Plisetskaya, and the 1976 collection was devoted to the Russian ballet.
Friendship with Lily Bric he really treasured. She was already in 80 when they met in 1975. On the territory of one of the places Yves Saint Laurent there is a Russian hut, and the designer's beloved Bulldog called the man.
Yves Saint Laurent - Photo: Claudia Schiffer in a trouser suit, a black model, Carla Bruni in the dress from Laurent
He was not only the idol of fashionista of the world: his work was marked by a number of awards. In 1985, he became a cavalier of the Order of the Honorary Legion, in 2001 - the commander of this Order, and in 2007 - the Great Officer of the Order of the Honorary Legion!
