We are accustomed to the primitive division of aromas into warm/floral and cold/fresh. Someone will more seriously divide the characteristics of perfume smells into three notes:

  • Fresh or ozone;
  • Oriental or velvet;
  • Natural or floral.

Perfumers believe that a good perfume combines all three notes. But in reality, everything is much more complicated and interesting.

Main groups of aromas

It has always been difficult for an ordinary person to determine what exactly he likes in this or that type of perfume. There is a huge variety of smells in the world, unique and inimitable, but still many of them have common, similar shades - notes. In order to systematize knowledge, it was invented to combine aromas into groups and give them a description. The classification of odors was developed in the 1990s in France.

Then perfumers counted seven notes of the main types of fragrances:

  1. floral;
  2. citrus;
  3. chypre;
  4. ferns;
  5. forest;
  6. leather;
  7. amber/oriental.

Modern technologies have greatly expanded our understanding of perfumery. It became possible to combine aromas from seven main groups, and new families of odors appeared. Let's look at them all in turn.

What will be the most popular this winter, what perfume notes can warm you up in the cold and add charm to a woman’s winter look?

Oriental, Oriental or Amber

Rich, sugary, warm and juicy interweaving of aromas of oriental spices (cloves, vanilla, cinnamon, amber), floral (jasmine or tuberose), animal aromas and incense create a thick, sensual and passionate bouquet.

Such a rich and luxurious scent is not for a young girl; it should be worn by an adult or mature, bright and beautiful lady. The eastern category is more typical for women's perfume. There is not a large selection of men's perfumes in this category.

Tip: Use oriental perfume when going out together with an evening dress and appropriate makeup.

Classic oriental fragrances are “Joyous” from the British Boadicea The Victorious, “Magie Noire” by Lancome, “Opium” by Yves Saint Laurent or “Poison” by Christian Dior.

Water

Oceanic aquatic (marine) categories of odors began to be created only 25 years ago. They are distinguished by the clear, invigorating and fresh sound of cool water. Initially, aquatic aromas consisted only of natural extracts of freesia, citrus fruits and green apples, but with the development of technology for synthesizing natural odors using artificially produced molecules, notes of sea salt, water and fresh air appeared. Today, in order to create the effect of a sea or aquatic scent, notes of cucumber, water lily, honeysuckle, watermelon and grapes are added.

Perfume that imitates water in its pure form is rarely used. This category of fragrances is added to reveal more complex natural floral or fruity perfumes. A good example would be “Cool Waterot” from the Swiss company Davidoff.

The aquatic type of perfume is suitable for almost everyone, but it predominates in men's perfumery (for the category of young and energetic people).

Woody

This category of fragrances consists mainly of rich woody notes - cedar, sandalwood, juniper, pine, vetivelia. To fully reveal the revitalization of perfumes, they are complemented with other shades, for example, citrus notes (lemon, lime, grapefruit) or floral scents (iris, lavender, patchouli).

Wood spirits are depth and tranquility. Fragrances with a woody note are most often created for men. English Laundry (Britain) presents one of the exemplary lines of scents for women and men of this type - “Arrogant”. It is perfect for people over 30, confident and balanced, will be appropriate in any environment and will create a good working atmosphere around them.

Ozone

Fragrances in this category appeared not so long ago. Thanks to the development of the industry of artificially synthesizing molecules to create odors, it has become possible to separate this type into a separate category.

A spectacular, light, fresh, almost weightless ozone fluid, similar in sensations to the coolness after rain, the air of an approaching thunderstorm or the pure freshness of a mountain breeze. This effect, in addition to the effects created in the laboratory, is complemented by natural citrus, rose, mint chords, as well as notes of green tea. This unusual energetic, sparkling and slightly romantic scent is suitable for young people of any gender. However, finding a pure ozone type of perfume will not be so easy.

Company S.T. Dupont from France has created an excellent example of an ozone perfume - “Essence Pure Homme”.

Fougere or Fern

“Fougere” and “fern” in this category are rather a metaphor. It is a combination of vegetal, tart notes combined with the subtle aromas of flowers and trees. Bergamot, oak moss, lavender flowers, patchouli, coumarin and incense complement well the fougere perfume.

The Italian company that produces cosmetics and perfumes Bottega Verde has created an exemplary fern perfume “UOMO-Madera Marina”. It is ideal for athletes and travelers.

It is believed that fougere perfumes are more suitable for males. In women's lines, this type is combined with woody and spicy families.

Green or Herbal

This category is distinguished by the bitter, rich taste of fresh herbs. It could be the smell of freshly cut grass, autumn hay or fallen leaves. They are often complemented with aromas of moss, flowers, trees, and citrus accents. This scent is more designed to open up and refresh the floral, woody and citrus categories. It is rarely found as a separate type of perfume.

An example of green type perfume is “Green Tea Intense”, which is produced by the American perfume company Elizabeth Arden.

Weightless, light herbal scents are suitable for girls and boys from 14 to 25 years old for every day. Such perfumes do not cause irritation and will be appropriate at school, at work, and at dinner.

Leather

This is one of the rarest types of perfume. Non-standard ingredients and accents create difficulties in their release. Despite the fact that it is now at the peak of popularity and many manufacturers are developing perfumes based on it, it is very difficult to find such a smell on the shelves in the women's department. And in the men's departments and on shelves with unisex fragrances, leather type perfumes can be found in combination with the smell of dry tobacco and subtle floral notes. The category of leather scents goes well with fire smoke, birch tar, moss, juniper and charred wood.

A company from Argentina, La Martina, produces “Bayres Hombre” - an excellent example of leather perfume. Such a fragrance can be purchased by a bright, strong-willed, self-confident and independent woman who will not be intimidated by the complex composition of the fragrance.

In addition, this perfume will be a wonderful gift for a middle-aged man who is strong, courageous and purposeful.

The leather category is almost never combined with other families, since the dry, natural and specific smell is itself unique. This type of perfume is best suited for an evening reception, dinner or going to the theater.

Musk

Musk is an aphrodisiac that animals (roe deer, muskrat, beavers, deer) use in life to attract the opposite sex.

Initially, it was extracted in its natural form from real animal glands. But today, two other types of musky scents are more popular: floral and synthetic. These types are more pleasant and also less expensive to produce. Plant musk is produced from galbanum, hibiscus and ambrette flowers. Synthetic fragrance - chemically in special laboratories.

This category was created to complement and highlight other types of perfumes. The musky scent perfectly emphasizes floral and woody aromas, giving them sensuality and a soft sound. French perfumers from Montale created “Musk to Musk” - a perfect example of a musky type of perfume. Manufacturers consider musky scents more suitable for women.

Spicy

It is not easy to find the category of spicy aromas unchanged. More often it is used with other types of perfume to create a rich composition. The basis of this category are flowers and spices that have a bright, spicy smell: ginger, cloves, cinnamon. This type goes well with flower and tree families, as well as oriental scents.

Spicy perfumes are suitable for people over 30; women should choose a combination with oriental and floral notes, and men – with woody ones.

Citrus

The citrus fruit category is distinguished by its bright, invigorating, slightly bitter aromas. To create them, natural essences are used, which are extracted from the fruits and flowers of lemon trees, pomelo, orange, bergamot, lime, etc. Perfumers use this family when creating unisex perfumes. Citrus scents look great alone and in combination with other categories.

Tip: Citrus aroma is universal. It is suitable for almost any person and will give a boost of vivacity, freshness and energy during the warm season.

The Italian perfume company Acqua di Parma produces a win-win citrus scent “Colonia Assoluta”, which is most often chosen by young people for every day.

Gourmet

Chocolate, cocoa butter, bees' honey and wax, fresh milk, coconut flakes, sweets, ice cream - all this is the basis of gourmet scents. Such cloying and sweet, appetite-stimulating aromas are rarely used unchanged. Floral or oriental categories soften and complicate the gourmand type of perfume well.

Such sweet chords are designed for a female audience with a sweet tooth. In men's perfumery they are used only in combination with woody, floral, spicy or leather scents.
The American perfume company Roxana Illuminated Perfume, which focuses on the naturalness of perfume production, releases a perfect example of the gourmand scent “Figure: Cerise”.

Floral

The floral category is the most common among all scents. Flower extracts of freesia, orchid, narcissus, rose, lavender, light or rich, are beautiful both on their own and in combination with any other categories of fragrances.

Floral scents are suitable for any time of day. They are able to emphasize the uniqueness and femininity of their owner. In men's perfumery, floral notes refresh and add thickness to the main aroma.

Fruit

These are primarily mono-aromas of a wide variety of fruits, as well as multi-fruit mixtures. These notes are best combined with floral, woody, aromatic and aquatic aromas. Fruity scents are more suitable for women, although they are also used in men's perfumes.

Chypre

Bergamot, oak bark and moss are the basis of chypre scents. These are always slightly contrasting citrus and fresh perfumes with notes of greenery, wood and flowers. In combination with other categories of fragrances, they are used in both men's and women's fragrance categories.

Examples of fragrances from this category are “Miss Dior” by Christian Dior. Perfume with a chypre note is suitable for businessmen and simply sociable people.

Exotic

They are separated from floral and fruit varieties mainly for marketing purposes. Unusual components, extracts of exotic fruits and flowers, non-standard combinations with other categories create an exotic type of perfume.

Fragrances such as “Folavril” by Annick Goutal are most often worn by bright, unusual, extraordinary and daring women.

Aldehydic

Thanks to the development of chemistry, a new category of fragrances based on synthetic compounds has recently emerged. Aldehydes allow you to create absolutely any odors and mix them with each other. Such production is much cheaper and simpler than natural production and can greatly expand the perfume market.

Unique perfumery - creating for a lady her unique smell. Escentric molecules will help you become the owner of the only fragrance in the world.

Notes in fragrance descriptions

A good aroma consists of several “notes”. To describe the smell, you need to apply it and wait for them all to open (this takes about 10-15 minutes):

  1. The first step is the top note. This is the very first impression of the scent and lasts less than a minute. The top note evaporates as soon as we open the perfume bottle. It is needed to prepare the sense of smell for the perception of the main aroma.
  2. The second step is the heart note. It occurs instantly, after the first, when the perfume begins to interact with human skin. The heart note usually uses the most expensive and difficult-to-volatile substances.
  3. The third stage is the base note. This is the long lasting scent that you will wear all day. It usually opens 8-10 minutes after application to the skin. The third note helps the note of the second stage to open and emphasize the temperament and sophistication of the aroma.

The correct combination, subtlety and uniformity of all three notes determines the quality of the perfume, its durability and unique sound that will develop and accompany you all day.

Aroma concentration

There are four types of aromas depending on their stability and intensity:

  1. Perfume - the strongest concentration of odor is 20-30%. Use in the evening. Apply to places where you can feel the pulse - wrist, temples, behind the ears, and so on.
  2. Eau de parfum – concentration 14-25%. This type of perfume is used during the daytime, and is applied two to three times (lasts from 4 to 5 hours) on clothes and body skin.
  3. Toilet water – 10-20%. It is used in the morning or on weekends. It is not customary to apply eau de toilette to the skin; you just need to spray a little item of clothing before going out.
  4. Cologne is a light scent. It is usually applied in the morning (for men after shaving) to the skin directly with your hands with light movements.

How to choose perfume

If you have to explore a rich assortment of scents, use a special piece of paper. When you have already determined an approximate list of scents you like, take your time. Buy a few samples to “wear” the scent on yourself for a few days, or lightly spritz your wrist area with the scent you like and leave the store.

To fully develop the scent, the perfume needs to spend at least an hour on your skin.

It is impossible to choose the right perfume for yourself based on the scent from another person. In the store you can only smell the first notes. The unique aroma of perfume reveals itself gradually on the skin and is what you will wear all day. Besides, there are always too many distracting smells in perfume departments.

Applying perfume

Ideally, you need to have three different jars with the same scent:

  • In the morning, experts recommend applying eau de toilette.
  • Eau de parfum should be carried with you in your purse and used 2-3 times a day (every four hours).
  • If you have a gala dinner in the evening, apply perfume before the event.

Most often, it is recommended to apply perfume to the pulse zones (the bends of the legs and arms, temples, neck, area behind the ears); many recommend lightly sprinkling the hair or body under clothes with perfume.

But the most important condition for proper application is to use the aroma after a bath, when the body is still warm and damp.

Perfume by season

It is very important to use perfume according to the weather and mood. In winter you always want warmth and comfort - this will be provided by thick chypre and gourmand aromas. But in the summer, such perfumes may be too intrusive and strong. In warm summers, it is more appropriate to use light floral and citrus aromas, which are lost in the cold and are almost not felt.

Spirits and others

Everyone knows how irritating a strong and pungent foreign smell can be to others. It is necessary to be able to separate an evening reception from a trip on public transport.

Tip: Remember that not every scent is appropriate for work or a business meeting. Choose your fragrance responsibly so as not to spoil the impression.

Experts say that the main thing in smell is harmony, not intensity. At work, it’s good to use unisex eau de toilette or other neutral, unobtrusive scents. Some psychologists also claim that a woman striving to climb the career ladder needs to wear men's perfume.

But on a date, you should avoid perfumes that demonstrate the independence and pride of their owner (extracts of bergamot, moss, bergamot lavender and bay leaf). On the contrary, it is necessary to emphasize your tenderness and sensuality with the help of light fruity or floral aromas.

Perfume and hair color

Some perfumers associate perfume scents with hair color:

  • Bitter and fresh floral, violet, mimosa, lavender, citrus or cyclamen scents for blondes.
  • Spicy and sweetish scents of acacia, honeysuckle and gardenia for brunettes.
  • For girls with black hair, scents of tuberose, jasmine, lily or sandalwood are suitable.
  • For brown-haired women - the unusual scent of hyacinth, as well as perfumes from the chypre category.

Perfume and clothing

There are a number of rules according to which:

  • A formal suit is combined with “cold” smells.
  • Extravagant outfit - with exotic, fruity and floral scents.
  • For a sporty style of clothing, unisex scents are best suited.

Perfume series

  • Bath oil/foam;
  • Gel/soap for washing;
  • Cream, oil or lotion for the skin;
  • Unscented antiperspirant, or better yet, a deodorant that matches the perfume.

Such a set of cosmetics with a single aroma will completely eliminate the “merging” of perfumes with foreign odors of cosmetics and will create an intense and at the same time light aroma on your body for as long as possible.

Fragrances of the zodiac signs

  • Aries is well suited for perfumes with amber, poppy, jasmine and patchouli;
  • Lotus, lavender, bergamot are suitable for Taurus;
  • Geminis are better off choosing notes of sandalwood, violet, strawberry, and pine;
  • Cancer - sandalwood, jasmine or poppy flowers, amber and lotus;
  • When choosing perfume, Leos should pay attention to the aromas of incense, amber, jasmine and coconut oil;
  • For virgins - patchouli, mira, strawberry, rose;
  • For a good day, Libra will infuse lavender, sandalwood, pine, rose or jasmine;
  • Scorpios need notes of rose, lavender, amber and jasmine flowers;
  • Sagittarius should choose scents with amber or patchouli;
  • And Capricorn will like rose, sandalwood, pine and lotus;
  • Aquarius will be comfortable in perfumes with notes of patchouli, lime, strawberry, sandalwood or rose;
  • Pisces need a scent with lavender, poppy, rose or violet.

Perfume storage

Contrary to popular belief, perfumes do not last long. Therefore, experts do not recommend buying large quantities at once, especially if you prefer to use several brands at the same time.

Tip: If you are going to store perfume for a long time, keep it in the refrigerator.

Perfume should be stored in a dark place, preferably in a box. The tighter the bottle is closed and the cooler the room, the longer your favorite scent will retain its freshness and quality.



1. "Perfumes", R.A. Friedman, Pishchepromizdat, 1955, Moscow.This book is the beginning of everything. In Russia and the countries of the former USSR, a more worthy textbook on perfumery with a description of recipes and technology has not yet been published. Many books of our time are based on materials from this book. I came across criticism of this book on the Internet. Yes, I agree, there are mistakes and some nuances, but overall it’s still a wonderful book, you just need to perceive it more objectively and without finding fault. download link http://www.ex.ua/782947960349 or upon request Perfumery Fridman Moscow 1955 free download

2. " Introduction à l "é tude des parfums Mati è res premi è res aromatiques d " origine naturelle et de synth è se " Taghi Bassiri, Masson & Cie, 1960, Paris The title is translated from French: "Introduction to the study of perfumery. Aromatic raw materials of natural and synthetic origin." link will come later

3. Perfumery Practice and Principles Robert R. Calkin, J. Stephan Jellinek, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 1994, New York, Chichester, Brisbane, Toronto, Singapore can be downloaded on depositfiles or on letitbit

4. Modern Technology Of Perfumes, Flavors And Essential Oils (2nd Edition) NIIR Board, 2004, National Institute of Industrial Research can be downloaded on depositfiles or on letitbit (but unfortunately this is only part of the book, but I still think it will be useful to someone)

5. "Perfumery and its secrets" Voitkevich S.A., Food industry, 2003, Moscow Link will appear a little later In Ukraine, this book can be bought

6. "865 fragrant substances for perfumery and household chemicals", Voitkevich S. A., Food industry, 1994, Moscow download on depositfiles or letitbit

7. "Essential oils for perfumery and aromatherapy", Voitkevich S.A., Food industry, 1999, Moscow download on depositfiles or letitbit, and you can also buy this book in Ukraine

8. "Aromas and smells in culture", O.B. Vainshtein, New Literary Review, 2003, Moscow download book1 and download book2 or download in one archive on depositfiles or on letitbit

9. "The Chemistry of Fragrances From Perfumer to Consumer 2nd Edition Edited" Charles Sell Quest International, Ashford, Kent, The Royal Society of Chemistry, 2006 download

10. "Perfumes: Art, Science, and Technology, Peter M. Müller, Dietmar Lamparsky", 1994 read online

11. " Common Fragrance and Flavor Materials: Preparation, Properties and Uses" Horst Surburg, Johannes Panten, 2001 download

12. "Fragrance. Memoirs of a Perfumer" K.M. Verigin

13. " Scent and Chemistry: The Molecular World of Odors", Günther Ohloff, Wilhelm Pickenhagen and Philip Kraft, Verlag Helvetica Chimica Acta, 2011, ZürichFree download download link upon request

And more books that I don’t have yet, but would really like to buy:

Introduction to Perfumery by Tony Curtis and David G. Williams A Ellis Horwood Series in Applied Science and Industrial Technology 1994

Perfumery and Flavoring Synthetics by Paul Z. Bedoukian, Ch.E, Ph.D Third, Revised Edition Allured Publishing Corp 1986

Flower Oils and Floral Compounds in Perfumery by Danute Pajaiyis Anonis Published by: Perfumer & Flavorist Allured Publishing Corp.

Books that will make you a perfume professional, teach you how to wear Chanel No. 5 correctly and explain for whom “Red Moscow” was created

“From carnation to sandalwood”, Anna Zvorykina

Professional biologist and perfumer Anna Zvorykina explains how to use fragrances in everyday life, as well as how to make them yourself. For example, the book contains a detailed description of methods for obtaining natural extracts. Anna shares her personal experience and provides ready-made recipes for perfumes, scented candles, soaps, sachets, table salt, salad dressings, tea and even some medicinal mixtures (for wounds and burns). A book for those who want to try everything in practice. You can buy the book

« Parfums Mythiques. Exclusive collection of legendary perfumes",Marie Bénédicte Gautier

The publication contains the history of the creation of 70 perfume masterpieces, including Chanel No. 5, Shalimar, Arpege, Jicky, Narcisse Noir, L'Heure Bleue, Mitsouko and others. The author explains their perfume pyramid, the features of the bottles, and also advises how to use them correctly wear. The book contains illustrations of women, flowers and other associations associated with fragrances. You can buy the book.

"Soviet style. Perfumery and cosmetics”, Marina Koleva

The book examines in detail the Soviet era of the 1920s-1980s. For example, in the USSR they made good perfumes and independently produced high-quality essential oils. There were cheap and expensive colognes in the country - for different segments of the population. After reading this book, you will be able to show off your knowledge and say that “Resort” cologne was released specifically for the working class. It was expensive to go to Crimea, but you could enjoy the beautiful label and aroma as much as you wanted. The book describes in detail the history of creation and the role in society of Soviet legendary fragrances: “Red Moscow”, “Red Poppy”, “Manon”, “Lights of Moscow”, “White Lilac” and “Silver Lily of the Valley”. Beautiful photographs of bottles and Soviet posters will definitely captivate you for several evenings. You can buy the book. Don't pay attention to the cover, it's a little scary.

“Scents of the World”, Alexandra Dmitrieva and Tatyana Evseeva

A whole encyclopedia of fragrances: from the history of perfumery since Ancient Egypt to love stories related to fragrances. Here are the stories of the creation of legendary fragrances from the perfume houses of Chanel, Guerlain, Givenchy and Kenzo. Separate chapters are devoted to aphrodisiacs, a brief description of aromatherapy and the principles of dividing aromas into different groups. Chemists, perfumers, art historians and cultural historians participated in the creation of the perfume encyclopedia. You can buy

"100 best fragrances. How to choose and wear perfume"Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez

Perfumery Directory, which contains olfactory impressions of the 100 best perfumes. The review of perfumers begins with modern compositions that can be bought in any perfume store, and ends with rare specimens that are found only in Osmotek (perfumery museum located in Paris. - Ed.). What’s nice: the terms are explained in the glossary at the end of the book, so you won’t get confused. The publication will more than teach you to distinguish a work of art from mediocre fragrances. You can buy