You can often find that any yarn that is not smoothly dyed is called melange. But not all variegated yarn is melange. One of these variegated threads is section-dyed yarn. In this article I want to pay special attention to sectionally dyed yarn, consider its properties and the features of knitting from such yarn.

Knitting from sectionally dyed yarn allows you to make both a variegated and striped fabric, which cannot be said about knitting with melange thread. Knitting from melange yarn allows you to make only a variegated fabric.

To obtain section-dyed yarn, the yarn is dyed after spinning. The color palette, as well as the length of the color segment, may vary. But there is a certain rule: even if the length of the color section is different, the color sequence must always be repeated.

Section-dyed yarn allows needlewomen to create a huge variety of patterns without using many multi-colored balls. But it should be noted that knitting from such yarn is very difficult, because when you start knitting from section-dyed yarn, you often cannot predict what kind of pattern you will get in the end. Even knitting a sample will not always help you with this.

According to the length of the color segment, sectionally dyed yarn is divided into:

  • Finely sectioned yarn;
  • Mid-section yarn;
  • Long section yarn.

The short length of the color segments allows you to create a variety of geometric shapes when knitting. This yarn behaves unpredictably. It is difficult to replicate a model from a magazine and often produces sloppy spots in the wrong place. The color scheme in symmetrical parts turns out to be asymmetrical; the side seam is clearly visible in the product. When changing the number of loops, the pattern becomes distorted. Randomly scattered spots of color sometimes spoil the silhouette of the product.

Long sections of color segments when knitting make it possible to obtain stripes. This yarn behaves quite predictably.

It should be noted that knitting from the same ball gives a different result in the pattern when crocheting or knitting.

What to look for when buying section-dyed yarn

Firstly, of course, you need to pay attention to the length of the color segment, because the color pattern of the future product largely depends on this. The shorter the color segment, the more colorful the product will be. With long color segments, the product will turn out striped.

When choosing yarn, be sure to consider what you plan to knit with it. Fine-section and medium-section yarn are suitable for small items such as scarves, hats or children's items. Mid-section and long-section yarn will be good for jackets and sweaters, various capes, as well as stoles and shawls.

Secondly, pay attention to the relationships between the color segments in the skein. Different colors in a skein may have different lengths. If preference is given to one color in the ball - it has a longer segment or is repeated more often, then in the product this color will set the tone of the entire product.

Thirdly, it is advisable to purchase section-dyed yarn in large skeins, and also pay attention to the direction of the color change sequence when winding in skeins. All this will allow you to make the transition from skein to skein unnoticeable.

Rules for knitting from section-dyed yarn

You can knit with section-dyed yarn as if you were using regular plain-dyed yarn, without thinking about what pattern you will get in the end. In this case, the pattern can be chaotic, giving the product originality and uniqueness.

But if you want to get a certain pattern, then when knitting you should pay attention to some rules when working and follow them:

  • All balls must be wound in the same color sequence.
  • To eliminate the possibility of pattern distortion in symmetrical pieces, start knitting them from the same color section.
  • In order to obtain the intended color spots in the product, carefully study the length and sequence of alternating color segments.
  • In order to choose a design that is more suitable for the product, knit several samples, starting each with a different color segment. This will help you reduce the risk of ending up with a mismatched pattern ensemble.
  • After you have selected the optimal pattern, you need to adjust the pattern of the product to the pattern repeat. Often the sectional yarn determines the model of the product. Therefore, do not take a product with a very complex cut and with predetermined color effects. The simplest parts are the rectangular parts of the back, shelves and sleeves.
  • If the calculated width of the parts turns out to be not a multiple of the number of repeats, then slightly narrow or, conversely, widen the part. Try playing with the transfer of the side seam to adjust the rapport: slightly narrow the back and widen the front. At the same time, do not forget to adjust the armhole too.
  • Often it is the first row that causes a certain difficulty, since it is difficult to adjust the desired turn in the right place. Therefore, it is better to cast on more loops (about 15 - 20 more loops) than needed, and subsequently remove the extra tail.
  • Keep an eye on the color section of each new ball. Start knitting from a new ball with the same color each time, even if it is necessary to remove a whole color repeat.
  • If the thread has a defect in the form of a knot, break, elongation, or, conversely, shortening the length of the dyeing segment, then it is better to remove the defective repeat and start with the next one.
  • Minor disruptions in the pattern (approximately 1 to 3 loops) can be compensated by knitting density: knit the loops tighter or looser. Due to the variegation of the canvas, this will not be noticeable.
  • When changing the number of loops when knitting darts, armholes, and necklines, certain difficulties arise. For beginner knitters, it is advisable to take a model with rectangular armholes and necklines. The reduction of the armhole and neckline is made in multiples of the rapport. This allows you to save the pattern. If the neckline turns out to be too wide, then it can be adjusted with various types of trims, for example, by making additional trim, adding lace, adding a placket, etc.
  • It is better to knit the sleeves rectangular with a width that is a multiple of the pattern repeat.

Dimensions: 62-68 (74-80/86-92) 98-104

You will need: yarn (100% cotton; 125 m/50 g) - 150 (150/200) 250 g white-green-blue sectional dyeing; knitting needles No. 3.5 and 4; long circular knitting needles No. 3.5; 3 small buttons with a diameter of 1 cm.

Elastic band (knitting needles No. 3.5): alternately knit 2, purl 2.

Main pattern (knit stitch, knitting needles № 4): front rows - front loops, purl rows - purl loops.

Garter stitch: knit front and back rows.

Knitting density: facial stitch – 22 p. x 28 r. = 10 x 10 cm.

Important: knit the model with two balls for better distribution of colors. To do this, alternately knit 2 rows from each ball.

Back: On knitting needles No. 3.5, cast on 60 (68/76) 86 loops and knit 2 cm with an elastic band. Then switch to needles No. 4 and knit with the main pattern. After 15 (18/21) 23 cm from the initial row, close on both sides for the armholes, 3 stitches and in every 2nd row. close on both sides another 3 x 2 p. = 42 (50/58) 68 p. After 25 (30/35) 39 cm from the initial row, close the right 30 (36/42) 50 p., and on the remaining 12 (14 /16) 18 sts, knit another 1.5 cm for the placket. Then close all the loops.

Before: knit like a back, but with a neckline. To do this, after 22 (26/31) 35 cm from the initial row, close off the middle 12 (12/14) 16 stitches and finish both sides separately. First, continue knitting 15 (19/22) 26 sts along the left edge = end of the row. To round the neckline at the beginning of each front row, bind off 1 (2/2) 4 x 2 p. and 1 (1/2) 0 x 1 p. After 25 (30/35) 39 cm from the beginning row, bind off the remaining 12 (14/ 16) 18 shoulder stitches. Then continue knitting 15 (19/22) 26 sts along the right edge = beginning of the row. To round the neckline, close at the beginning of each purl row 1 (2/2) 4 x 2 p. and 1 (1/2) 0 x 1 p. At the same time after 23.5 (28.5/33.5) 37.5 cm from the initial row continue to knit for the placket in garter stitch and in the 1st r. make 2 holes for buttons as follows: 2 (3/4) 5 p., 1 yarn over, knit 2 p. together, 4 p., 1 yarn over, knit 2 p. together, knit the remaining loops. In the purl row, knit yarn overs. After 25 (30/35) 39 cm from the starting row, bind off the remaining 12 (14/16) 18 shoulder stitches.

Sleeves: On knitting needles No. 3.5, cast on 38 (42/46) 46 loops for each sleeve and knit 2 cm with an elastic band. Then switch to needles No. 4 and knit with the main pattern. For side bevels, add sleeves every 8th r. (alternately in every 6th and 8th r. / in every 6th r.) alternately add in every 4th and 6th r. from the elastic on both sides 4 (6/9) 13 x 1 p. = 46 (54/64) 72 p. After 16 (19/22) 26 cm from the initial row, close on both sides to roll up the sleeves 3 p. and in every 2nd r. bind off another 3 x 2 sts. After 18 (21/24) 28 cm from the initial row, bind off the remaining 28 (36/46) 54 sts.

Assembly: Stretch the parts, moisten them and let them dry. Place the left shoulder strap under the front strap and pin. Use a mattress stitch to sew the right shoulder seam. Sew in the sleeves. Use a mattress stitch to sew the side seams and sleeve seams. For the neck strap, using knitting needles No. 3.5, evenly cast on 64 (68/72) 76 sts along the edge of the neck and knit 1.5 cm with an elastic band, while at the beginning of the 1st r. make the 3rd hole for the button as follows: 2 p., knit 2 p. together, 1 yarn over, knit the remaining loops of the row. In the next row, knit the yarn over according to the pattern. Then close all the loops according to the drawing. Sew buttons.

A few decades ago, the choice of yarn for knitting was so small that you had to get out of the situation and combine different threads yourself. Indeed, despite the fact that materials for needlework were minimally available, craftswomen still produced handmade masterpieces.

Nowadays, many yarn manufacturers offer section-dyed threads and melange. Let's figure out what the difference is between these two types of yarn and tell you about rules of knitting with sectional yarn.

Melange yarn

So, melange yarn can be of absolutely any quality, that is, composition. The main difference from all other thread options is that the finished thread consists of two or more thin threads of different shades or even colors.

Sometimes there are variants of melange sectional yarn.

If the yarn options that are offered in ready-made stores do not suit you in color or other characteristics, then you can easily create your own melange yarn. It is enough to select the required colors of threads and connect them into one ball. For the best possible result, you should use an electric spinning wheel, which will twist two or more threads into one.

Section-dyed or section-dyed yarn

Sectionally dyed yarn includes all threads that have a non-uniform color throughout the entire skein. Sections of different colors are combined into one skein of yarn. These can be completely different options. For example, small pieces of yarn are dyed different colors. This coloring option can be called briefly sectional.

You can knit completely different products with this thread, just like when working with regular yarn of a uniform color.

But thread with long sections of different colors is used in work according to several rules, following which you can achieve exceptional results.

When knitting unpaired simple items, such as a scarf or hat, there are no special working conditions. But when knitting socks or mittens, it is worth considering that they should be symmetrical, that is, the same.

To do this, each product must start with the same piece of thread. Let's say we start knitting socks with yellow color. In this case, they should turn out the same. This rule only applies to yarn whose sections are long enough. With short sections, you don't have to start with one color. The difference between socks or mittens of the same pair will not be noticeable.

When working on a raglan sweater, it is best to start the sleeves in the same color.

If sectionally dyed yarn is used on products with seams, then it is worth considering that the back and front of the product must match the color of the seams. It is for this reason that it is best to knit such products from the bottom up.

There is no need to worry that during the washing process, products made from melange yarn or section-dyed yarn will lose their appearance and fade. If you follow the care recommendations given by the manufacturer, the yarn perfectly retains its original appearance.

We hope everything worked out for you.
Share your result with us and leave comments.
Author Marina Nikitina.

The variety of yarn allows craftswomen to experiment and create unique things. Modern ones have many names that differ in composition, color and properties.

Section-dyed yarn can be classified as fancy due to its interesting and sometimes unexpected color schemes. The good thing about this yarn is that you don’t need to select and combine colors for the product yourself.

Single-color sections can be short or long, allowing for control over the knitting. Yarn (sectional yarn) with short sections produces a bright, slightly variegated fabric. This thread is ideal for knitting children's clothes or accessories - scarves and hats. Large sections fit into the product in wide, well-combined stripes.

Knitting from section-dyed yarn can be done either by crochet or knitting. Depending on the chosen tool and working technique, a fabric knitted with the same thread may look different.

Manufacturers of section-dyed yarn

Knitting with yarn (sectional yarn) always begins with choosing the ideal yarn composition and color combinations. Fortunately, there are many options - almost all major yarn manufacturers produce a sectional line. The most famous of them:

  • Alize Burcum Batik. 100% acrylic (100 g/210 m). The thread is ideal for children's knitting and for those with sensitive skin prone to allergic reactions. The yarn is very soft, pleasant to the touch, does not squeak or curl during operation. Pleases with noble color combinations.
  • Alize Angora Gold Batik. 10% angora, 10% wool, 80% acrylic (100 g/550 m). Thin, delicate fluffy thread of sectional dyeing. It makes light, airy stoles, shawls, and dresses.
  • Vita Cotton Coco print. 100% gas-colored mercerized cotton (50 g/240 m). This cotton thread makes wonderful summer items. It looks best in lace and openwork patterns. The color combinations seem to be specially created for bright things for spring and summer.
  • Magic. 100% wool (100 g/200 m). Winter knitting is incomplete without this thread. The yarn (sectional yarn) of this brand makes very warm and beautiful things. It is suitable for creating bright, stylish cardigans and sweaters, hats and scarves, socks and mittens.
  • "Kamtex". "Chrysanthemum Print". 40% mohair, 60% acrylic (100 g/350 m). Yarn from a domestic manufacturer is ideal for knitting openwork shawls and stoles with a smooth transition of colors.

What to knit from section-dyed yarn

Handicraft magazines and thematic websites offer many patterns that can be used to knit from sectional yarn. Models vary in complexity and styles, but even the simple execution of some models due to complex thread dyeing makes things original and stylish.

From the “sectional section” you get not only beautiful large items, such as dresses and jumpers, but also small accessories, for example, sets of hats and snoods, knitted knee socks and socks. For small products, yarn with short sections is more suitable, for large ones - with long sections.

Knitting bactus

It is better to start knitting from yarn (sectional yarn) with a simple product, for example, the now very fashionable bactus. On it, the colored sections will reveal themselves in the most advantageous way due to its triangular shape.

Bactus can be knitted with knitting needles or you can get an original product in the style of Bosnian knitting. The scarf begins to be knitted from one edge, gradually widening and then shortening the rows where the bactus narrows.

You can start working with knitting needles from the center, gradually expanding each “wing” of the bactus. The finished product can be decorated with tassels or fringe.

Blouse made from Kauni yarn


So. Be sure to knit a sample to calculate the required number of loops for casting on. The jacket is knitted practically without seams, from the outer edge to the inner, so in case of an error in the calculations you will have to unravel a lot. It would be ideal if the number of loops was divided by 5. I strongly recommend drawing a mini pattern on a checkered sheet on a scale: 1 square - 5 loops. Here's my pattern:

Line A-B is the middle of the back, line B-C is half the circumference of the hips, line C-D is the middle of the front.
In my case, the length of the back is 120 loops, half of the OB is 110 loops, the middle of the front is 65 loops (the last figure is obtained automatically if you draw the D-E line strictly diagonally!).
On the knitting needles we cast on 120+110+65+5=300 loops. The extra 5 stitches are 2 edge stitches, 1 middle loop on line B-G, 1 middle loop on line C-G, and 1 middle loop on line D-E. We mark them with markers!
We knit in garter stitch, in each front row on lines B-G and C-G we knit 3 loops together, and along the line D-E we add one loop on both sides of the middle loop. This way we form a straight front line.
If you want to fit the blouse, you can subtract a few stitches in the B-G-C triangle, but we must not forget that at the same time the same number of loops must be added on the E-D line!
In this way we knit until the vertex of the triangle at point G is one loop.
Then you can sew a piece G-F, leaving the loops (F-E) necessary for the sleeve on the knitting needles. They are simply knitted further until the sleeve length is reached. You can narrow the sleeve, or knit it straight, if desired.
Here we already have half of the jacket ready. We knit the second half in a mirror image. We assemble the loops in the middle of the back from a ready-made part.
All that remains is to sew the shoulder part and decide on the collar. Knit a collar or hood, if desired.

Sorry if anything in the description is not clear. I composed everything as I knitted. There are already several jackets linked on our Latvian forum under the code name Lapsas jaka (Fox Jacket), some changes have been made to each. I am also going to repeat this model from Kauni in the fall. I will definitely take a photo of the process.